silverhead

When you save a preset it is saved with all current settings in the Preset Library. That makes it available for recall, in its saved state, at any time from the library into any Setup. When you add it to a Setup, a copy of that preset is made and is available as is (and as a basis for further tweaking) in the Setup. Once in a Setup you can tweak the local copy of the preset without affecting the Preset Library version of the preset. All changes and tweaks you make to the local copy of the preset in the Setup are saved as part of the Setup when you save the Setup. This does not affect the Preset Library version of the preset. When you save multiple Scenes within the Setup, each Scene keeps its own version of all presets in the Setup based on their specific settings when the Scene was saved. A complete copy of all these presets and their settings is kept with each Scene, and each preset has its own specific settings in each Scene. None of these affect the version in the Preset Library. And, yes, a typical use of Scenes is to define different settings for one or more presets in different songs. Here's how the manual describes what it saved with a Scene: A Scene is essentially a snapshot of all your settings within the current Setup. These include settings for processor and FX parameters, channel levels, mute, solo, pan position and monitor send levels.

I've never seen it on my rack unit.

No different. That's what re-flashing means.

Don't use anything but an electronics cleaning fluid. There are 'pot' (potentiometer) cleaner products available that you spray around the base/shaft of knobs and switches. Look for those at any electronics store.

Try looking at / photographing the screen directly rather than in the mirror. :lol: :P (jk of course)

The problem is that if only one preset in a setlist becomes somehow corrupt, you will only notice it when you import the setlist. Your device starts behaving unpredictably and then you face a choice: either abandon the entire setlist and start recreating all presets again from scratch, or figure out which preset is causing the problem. All presets are suspect. If you have them saved individually you can reset to factory presets and then import your custom presets one at a time to find the culprit.

It could definitely be a temperature issue. Condensation will occur when you move any electronic device from warm to cool temperatures. The moisture in the warm air inside the Helix will condense when the cooler air gets inside, creating tiny droplets of liquid water that collect on the surface of the electronic components - and that never goes well with electricity. Always let your equipment acclimatize before powering on. Half an hour should be plenty to let the condensation evaporate again.

I would open a support ticket at this point.

I have found that a suggestion made some time ago by HonestOpinion is a good idea. After importing any pre-v2.1 setlist and before doing any editing I shut down and restart Helix. This forces a rebuild of the new presets at startup, after which I find they behave better. Edit: just saw your latest post that you made while I was composing this one. So this suggestion isn't relevant to you since you have no previous presets, but keep it in mind for future updates.

Perhaps a corrupt preset? Did this begin after importing an old setlist (saved in pre-v2.1 firmware) for the first time?

Sounds like something that might happen if your firmware and editor versions are mismatched?

There's a Preset for that in the factory presets. The name is not exact but obvious. Don't know whether you'd consider it good.

Great! I'm sure your son will enjoy his Xmas present. Introduce him to this forum, especially the POD HD Knowledge Base and FAQs, for any questions about usage.

First thing I would do is reinstall the firmware and replace all existing presets with the factory presets. That will give you a known starting point for diagnosis. Perhaps the firmware installation has become corrupt, or the previous owner customized the presets to such an extent that they are exhibiting the symptoms you describe. Once you have a known baseline it will easier for you (and us) to figure things out.

It may be the placement order of your FX. Many FX are mono and they always output a mono signal, even if a stereo signal is fed into them. So if your signal chain has a mono FX after a stereo FX you will not hear stereo. To test this create a preset that has only an amp (which is mono) and a stereo delay FX following the amp. Configure the delay so that the stereo effect should be obvious. Listen using headphones in the Firehawk. Make sure your headphones are properly connected and that you can hear stereo using those headphones in another device (e.g. Your home stereo system). If you hear the stereo from Firehawk in this situation then your problem is FX ordering. If you don't hear stereo then there may be a problem with your Firehawk.

On the Downloads page, Select Helix in the Products (leftmost) field, select your OS, and hit Go. You will be presented with a complete history of Helix firmware, editor, driver, and Line 6 Updater releases. This may not include the original factory release of the firmware - the first I see is v1.01.

You need to try again next Thursday at 2PM (or noon?) to account for the change back to standard time from Daylight Savings time. I'm sure it will work because Line 6 would never post bad information.

There are two Global setting (Ins/Outs section) where you can specify the outputs (1/4", XLR, etc.) that are sent to the headphones as well as the Volume knob controls. You can design your preset with different Output blocks with different settings (1/4", XLR, etc.) at the end of appropriate signal flow to obtain a headphones mix that is different from your 'main' mix and control it with the Volume knob. For instance, you could set your main mix Output block to XLR, and your Headphones-targetted Output block (at the end of another signal path) to 1/4". You would place your desired DSP blocks, FX Loop blocks, and path split/merge blocks in the two paths to create the difference between your main and headphone mixes. Then set the Global settings for both Volume Knob Controls and Headphones Monitor to 1/4".

Excellent point. And you can't assign a third state to the footswitch. You would need to use two separate switches (as he's now doing) or another method like the A/B block you describe.

Assign both harmonizer FX blocks to the same footswitch. SAVE the preset with one of those FX On and the other Off. Henceforth the assigned footswitch will toggle them both on/off. When one is on the other is off.

Have you tried updating via the USB connection to a PC/Mac?

On my iPhone 6s you can stop the app by swiping it off the screen. You double-click on the Home button which displays individual tiles showing all the active apps. Then you swipe away any app you want to stop.

Also check your interfac device. There is sometimes a switch that controls whether or not the input signal is monitored.

Perhaps you have not reset the global setting that specifies how you want the up/down switches to behave. There are three options: Bank, Preset, and Snapshot. Only one of them -Bank- involves blinking because it's the only one that requires further specification. When you press the Bank up/down switch you need to then specify a preset. The lights blink until you do. If the switches are set to Preset or Snapshot there is no second step required because in each case the device selects the adjacent up/down preset or snapshot. Maybe all you need to do is reset the global from Bank to whatever you used to have it set to.

Maybe keep the EHX Pitchfork and place it in an FX Loop of the Helix?