BillBee

FX mixing is best handled using HDEdit. Adjust the FX levels as you would any pedal in the signal chain. They are only "jacked" 100% if you set them that way. The 4CM is only one way of using the HD and its not necessarily the best way - it all depends on what you want to do, what output mode you like, blah, blah. :D. Most people who want to use the "physical amp's pre-amp" will use the 4CM. I've not had much success running the Pod's direct into the front of an amp as it tend to load the amp's pre and throw any EQing off. Hence going direct to the FX loop works for me. Grab the manual, read up, do a search here for the 4CM, and learn the unit while going into the FX loop then experiment with the 4CM "if" you feel you still need it you can always try it out. If that doesn't help you will have to list some specifics for the gear and how you have your HD setup and cabled.

asio4all <- that could be your problem. You need to use the Line 6 ASIO drivers.

https://www.google.com/#q=SAMXON+3300uF16v

Ones I've owned X3, HD series.

This is just a user forum and the L6 guys don't really come here much. Psarkissian did comment on your other post in the S-Jam thread and recommended that you submit a support ticket so the Official L6s crew can get the ball rolling for you.

That is the way to learn the HD start small and build. For low output amps try adding a TS block in the chain with the Level High with 0 gain to throw some signal at the amp sim.

Its tough to say "if" pressured I would guess at the least it may have been a bad batch if it turns out to be a component issue. Reflashing always has me on edge even though 95+% of the time it works. But that 5% of times it doesn't is exceptionally frustrating and I have sympathy for anyone going through that. I would hope that the replacement (if needed) might be updated prior to you taking possession and any warranty period extended.

I've seen this pop up here a few times for the V. A few seem to have had the headphone jack disconnect mute the output and another had to connect the FBV so the "increase vol" signal was sent. Without having one: Not sure if you can roll back the update to the working state but thankfully you have a warranty so do not open it up. It very well could be that the firmware did not take - some older amps (vetta) would be bricked by a firmware install fail. If you try a reflash and there was an option to overwrite all patches I would select it. Things I look at if firmware reflashing/reset does not work. Some of the Spider Jam Issues can be different and they need to have a signal trace done if the standard reflash, reset doesn't work. Off the input pcb (IIRc the TL jfet) in -> DSP and out of the DSP to the power section. L6 devices typically have the tuner see the signal first (like an X3L for ex) so that "can" hint at a input assembly issue if the tuner doesn't work or if the aux in is amplified still (if the aux bypassed the DSP as there is no need to route it through there) the power module can be good which leads back to lack of a signal from the main processor. Then it gets tough as VRs get hot and solder joints can be bad but only when hot. Being that most of the components are smd, which mere humans do not have the training or equipment to remove, sometimes it is more cost effective for board replacement. A Champ style circuit can be soldered together in ~ week but one of these is post-graduate work. So keep the faith! B

Are you using active PUs? Dead/dying battery? Off hand the first thing is to check cables and jacks, plug/unplug the jacks as it could just be some oxidation in them.

One thing to look at is (and its been a while) IIRC the X3L is Line level and amp's like instrument level signals. It could be there is too hot of a signal hitting the amp's loop. <- Hope that helps but it is a guess.

Hey Smash, Take a look at this speed demo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8SA_0OXDRo I've only did the complete take everything out method to make access easier.

Don't know - I use an external looper, but input is input and the looper (in theory) shouldn't care.

You sure can. Dual path select inputs guitar and mic. Nick explains it pretty good here: http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/47636/

Have you tried running the HD Studio Direct then to the power amp? GT75s should respond well and IMO Studio Direct opens the HD up. That said every setup is a bit unique and you should play around with what sounds good to your ears.

Regarding the noise: I always turned the amp off first then the Pod, IIRC there might have been a small noise: a Zzzzzzpop or something. If its working right I would worry about it. The only Pod 2.0 that can use the FBV series of controllers have the pedal jack labeled "FBV Pedal". If your Pod is not labeled with that then "no" you cannot use it. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58

Yep laptop power supplies can cause that problem. Try using a power strip and connect the XTL and laptop into it in case there is a ground loop.

It happens my man. Like the time I couldn't figure out why I had no sound and the amp was still on standby. :)

Hey there, yep this issue has popped up before. Full sunlight at the right angle triggers the optical sensor. From what I've seen there are two ways to get around this. 1) External exp pedal - they run off of a pot so no light issues there or as Nick wrote: Re: FBV ShortBoard Pedal Not controlling Volume in full Sun by Nick_Mattocks on 2010-07-06 05:23:07.4490 Hi OK - maybe a bit of detective work on your part would help you in the short term. You know what the problem is exactly - bright sunlight. What you need to determine is exactly where the light is getting in, and although the answer to that might initially appear obvious, it may not be as obvious as you think. Number one place to look is the obvious - the hole inder the toe of the pedal where there is a piece of metal attached to the underside of the toe end of the pedal and which protrudes down inside the casing. You can check whether this is the cause of the problem by jerry-rigging something to block the ingress of light around the hole just to test what happens with the pedal at different heights with the hole covered and uncovered. I suspect this is most likely where the problem lies. There is a foam ring inside the holewhich I think is supposed to help with this issue but it moves. In my opinion, this problem requires a solution where the hole into the guts of the Shortboard is completely shielded. A short length of thin but light tight compressible (concertina like ribbing) rubber tubing which covers the hole and is affixed to the underside of the toe end of the pedal would work and without impeding the travel of the pedal. This type of rubber tubing can sometimes be found in the engine bay of modern cars on the ends of throttle or clutch cables or near door hinges in cars where it is used to provide flexible shielding for electric window, door speakers and electric door mirror wiring. A trip to the local scrap yard might be in order. The second place to look and a less likely cause in my opinion would be the seams around the casing which may be a little more 'gappy' than is ideal. My Shortboard is well made and doesn't appear to have excessive gaps in the places where the different metal panels are screwed together, so I would think that all Shortboards are built to similar standards. But - you could use some gaffer tape to ensure that these are light tight if you think there may be a problem. I appreciate that you shouldn't have to resort to any of the above, but in the short term in the light of there not (apparently) being a fix, necessity is the mother of invention so you may have to be a little inventive/creative in finding your own solution until a fix is available Nick Full thread here: http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/38599/ In the end the bellows worked: Re: FBV ShortBoard Pedal Not controlling Volume in full Sun by pletch5034 on 2010-08-02 07:48:07.7100 Hello All, The mock up of the bellows worked. We were set-up on a large stage facing the West on a very bright (and sweltering hot) afternoon. I set-up my rig and it worked flawlessly. I watched the video that was linked and see that the pedal can be removed without having to disconnect any linkage. I am going to try placing a material "tube" over the pedal rod where it covers the opening and see if this works. Funny I get responses and emails from Line6 to buy new gear, but have yet to get a response to our problem. Pletch

Make sure you have the HD Edit for your version of HD too. I only say this as recently a user was trying to use HD Edit instead of the HD500 Edit (for a HD 500).

It could something as simple as the input jack pcb or a cold solder joint or something as involved as mainboard failure on a component level. The amps are not really user serviceable. Line 6 does not monitor these forums very actively and if you have done the usual re-flash routine and it doesn't work you have limited options. So in lieu of insulting me take some active steps to resolve your problem.

Hey there, the facts are that things break & you happen to be unlucky but that in no way means that there is a serious problem. People usually only come here when things break. Angry? sure its understandable but it happens to almost everything - I just popped $180 for an amp repair (non-L6) but its no reason for burning it lollipop happens. Your best solution is to open a Support Ticket and arrange for a trip to the Service Center.

I've done what PFsmith said and the Master is the master volume of all patches. If nothing else is wrong you can always check the vol pedal calibration too. If the Onboard expression pedal of the POD HD500 does not sweep through parameter values as it normally would, you may need to perform a pedal calibration to reset the functionality of the expression pedal: Hold the down the RIGHT ARROW button on the 4 Way Nav Pad while powering the unit on, until you see the “Test Mode†screen (Pedal Cal, etc.), and then proceed with the steps below: If not already selected, use on the 4 Way Nav Pad to select “Pedal Cal,†as shown above. Press the VIEW button. Set the pedal to the minimum “heel†position, then press the A footswitch to set a value for the Duty Cycle. You’ll see the value set to “100.†Set the pedal to the maximum “toe†position, then press the B footswitch to set a value for the Duty Cycle. Again, you’ll see the value set to “100,†as in step 3. Press the C footswitch to prepare for automatic selection of the Scaled Pedal Value and move the pedal from min. to max. You should see the Scaled Pedal Values read “0†at the heel position and “255†and the toe position. If you get values other than 0 and 255, power off and repeat these steps, starting at step 1. Press the D footswitch to save the settings. You’ll be returned to the Test Mode screen and the Pedal Cal item will show a “P†to indicated that the pedal calibration is complete! Power your device off and back on again to start using it. ***Please Note: Re-calibration of the POD HD500's expression pedal is necessary after performing a Global Settings reset. Instructions for how to perform a Global Settings reset is available here.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variax There might actually be more if you consider the variations and the Shuriken.

As you crank the volume on any amp, any patch built at low volumes will not be the same at high volume. Keep this in mind when building patches. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fletcher%E2%80%93Munson_curves

No that will not increase DSP. DSP is dependent upon how much processing a patch the "brain" has to do. Patches in memory basically sit there requiring no DSP. Edit: Let me add that a pedal like the Zoom MS/CDR series ran in the loop can offload and free up mucho DSP.