BillBee

Rocktron's Velocity series was always really good. OR..... many times you can find a used Spider Valve MKI in which the DSP board has failed (so no FX and repair is a prayer) but the power amp section usually works. The head is 100ws of paint pealing tube power - which will get you volume and more volume and more volume. :)

You have to notify L6 directly - they might never see your post in the forums.

Hey There! I usually have to log into L6 Monkey separately from the forums. Version 1.19 is there I just tried to DL it. Don't choose a device, choose Monkey and check the archive box. Its 2 items above the 1.16. https://www.reddit.com/r/vetta/comments/4w5ze5/firmware_update_guide/?fref=gc&dti=647483512018911 That is a pretty good guide. Another "hope it works" link: https://web.archive.org/web/20161004050438/www.vettaville.nl/vvhowtoupdateeng.htm The links won't work but the info is there.

Its the forum's method of auto censorship for questionable words. :) Say what you will but DF is right. The Vetta group on FB is worth joining for the experience of the combined membership, file archive and any trouble shooting. Joining FB does not mean you have to spill your life details, nor is it a commitment to interact with others. That group has arguably saved more bricked Vettas than L6. You can always delete your FB account if its not for you.

I would go for the X3 as it has the model packs included vs the XT which they have to be purchased for. As SH said The dual path chains are a big plus..

I've ran the HD into the FX return of a Flex II (2x12) and while its no FRFR it took to the studio direct setting well and the speakers being fairly neutral had the ~60lb combo sounding quite good. Not too far off the concept of a Tech21 PE60 (except the weight) which is my normal "go to".

1) Yes - see below 2) Yes - for PF2 to run, PF1 probably doesn't care but see below. 3) Hmmmmmm not sure but probably yes. Blackface or Redface UX2? I don't have a method of telling this for sure but be aware. Redface = Pod Farm1, Blackface = Podfarm2 (but could be PF1 depending on date - IDK what that date or magic # is).

Just as an add-on. If you keep losing your custom presets (noticed when the amp is turned off & restarted) look into replacing the internal battery.

Yeah, I wouldn't start hoarding them either. Its been a decade + since the XTs/X3s dropped off the shelf and those are still plenty in circulation.

Tough to say as L6 sez its not compatible - the 1st pedal has a toe switch IIRC so try using that and see if the wah pops on. FBV or FBX Longboard: http://line6.com/foo...ollers/fbv.html Works With: Flextone™ III, Vetta™, Vetta™ II, HD147®, Douverb®, PODxt™, PODxt Pro™, Bass PODxt™,POD X3, POD X3 Pro,Bass PODxt Pro™ Spider II, Spider III, Spider Jam. NOT compatible with Ax212™, Flextone™ I, II or HD, POD® Pro, Bass POD®, Bass POD® Pro and 1st Generation (Red Faced) Spider™ Spider IV, Spider Valve, Spider Valve MKII, POD HD **FBV is only compatible with POD 2.0 units with pedal jacks labelled "FBV Pedal." It is not compatible with older units which have pedal jacks labelled simply "Pedal."

I was under the impression that you were already using the FBV in conjunction with the X3. If not then add the ability to switch between 4 patches to the plus list. ;)

Shoot an email to Line 6. Those specs look like a Spider IIi or IV pot which if correct you might be able to get through: http://www.fullcompass.com/ But again check to make sure they are the same. For the floorboard - IIRC the early ones use a regular pcb mounted footswitch like a stomp box might use. Open it up and you should be able to get the specs/part # off of it. The early FBV Longboard had Alphas in it (dpdt - momentary? Its been a few years) and you should be able to get those through Mouser or the 'Bay. But again open it up and see. If it is like the longboard its an easy desolder/solder job.

I need the trim piece that circles the front badge. Let me know J.

The biggest advantage is one less thing to: carry, set-up, cable and supply power to. The X3's wahs are pretty good and its convenient to have everything controlled by a single unit.

Try this one: http://line6.com/media/customtone.com/Line_6_Tone_Exchange.zip

http://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0593541385a/application/pdf/Flextone%20III%20User%20Manual%20-%20English%20.pdf An extension cab with the XL (heavy beast btw) disables the internal speaker (L or R) while the Plus lets you add a cab. I don't have a Flex III XL or Plus just the reg 1x12 which uses only the internal speaker.

Look on page 2-9 of the manual. For the Plus Model connect the external cab to the jack marked external. The internal one will disconnect the internal speaker. If you just have a Flextone 3 (not the XL or Plus) then you are pretty much SOL - if you do run the ext cab make sure it matches the correct impedance of 8 ohms (IIRC).

Ouch. I would try another power supply and if that doesn't work it looks grim.

That would be hilarious if the tone of the email wasn't so sincere. The "sales gimmick" comment was the pinnacle of not knowing when to STFU. Bassist heal thyself.

This should help: http://line6.com/support/topic/12411-hd-500-lcd-replacment/

Hey there, the only thing I can suggest, based on the screens behavior, is that there is a bad solder joint. The HD produces a fair amount of heat and sometimes a solder joint can separate from the board. A repair shop would be the best place in lieu of taking it all apart and "trying" to find the bad spot (it is doable though if you have the experience/skills).

Hey my man, its been a few years but there might be a "save bundle" or similar in the Vyzex Editor.

Exp Pedal - Max is toe down = 100% Min is heel down - 0%.

hmmm - is the tuner seeing the signal? Check what input the HD is set for too.