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Everything posted by BillBee

  1. IMO the HDs have been durable - I have 3 and they have seen use. I've screwed around with Zoom and Digitech too and TBH its the user that makes the units sound good. Even the old reliable Pod 2.0 can be a beast if used properly. I've had footswitch failures happen in Zoom G9s, D-Tech GNXs - both used the same tactile switches the HD uses. They seem to have a limit to the amount of mashing they can take. You have to have back-ups (unit, power supplies, etc.) what can go wrong eventually will go wrong. ;)
  2. Its a toughie to diagnose things like this via a forum but if I was to guess I would say you are sending too strong a signal to the FX loop. Active PUs can really drive a MFX unit and need to have the input buffered a bit. Pods use a "pad" feature to cut the input signal. At volume you really don't need gain cranked to 10 either btw. So start with some baby steps working on getting a usable mild od then build up the ME's patches to see what is causing the problems. Its probably not the Flexy as you are just hitting to power amp outputting the ME's signal. The dummy jack thing is not unheard of though not really common.
  3. Probably Pod Farm 1 (free one) but the X3 should have all the model packs which is pretty sweet. You might have to go through all the L6 License Manager stuff to make sure every thing is authorized. BTW it couldn't hurt to try out PF 2 to see - who knows? ;)
  4. Amazon and nearly every online store will have a record of your purchase. Check your old emails too for clues.
  5. Download the flash memory to the pc first and use Monkey's Flash from File option. Its probably cheaper to buy another than take it to the service center.
  6. Try using Gearbox instead of Edit. Both are old and unsupported but at least Gearbox is newer.
  7. Not sure the HD is the issue here. You might want to check out the manual for the Velocity regarding cab ohmage and stereo requirements. Stereo = two loads for the power amp, bridged = single load. Cab specs should match what is required. From my old trusty Velocity 120 I know that when it would start to overheat the thermal protection would begin to make the sound start to distort.
  8. Yep its supposed to connect through the mini usb cable. IIRC the Win 7/Editor would throw the midi question when then driver wasn't being picked up or a usb conflict. The Vyzex editor midi options were for the Floor Pod Plus - which works pretty good (on Win XP at least). Try different ports and you can read up here: Hope something helps you! Bill
  9. Turn off Tone 2 - on the X3 Bean there is a button on the X3L there is a footswitch IIRC. I run an older Win system for using Gearbox to edit presets for it. Don't know about the Macs but Gearbox is the editor for the X3s.
  10. If there still are no lights, sound or the tubes are not glowing and lifeless then it time for a trip to a service tech for a peek under the hood. Could be a transformer issue to supplying power. Firmware won't fix that.
  11. Gearbox should work in Win7 IIRC but use Pod Farm 1 if you must have PF (its free). You can download the flash files to your desktop and use Monkey's "Flash from File" to flash that way if needs be. IMO you might want to just pick up a used XT/X3/HD Bean of any Pod flavor you want to try - then use the usb to record if that is the goal. The regular Pods 2.0 are still pretty sweet.
  12. Its tough to say if a reflash will be the solution but it is the first thing to try. Also consider a new power supply as weird things can happen when they start to go, borrow one to test if you can.
  13. Have you tried dragging and dropping the HD300 patch onto the HD400 editor window?
  14. Indeed and you get a bonus of seeing if that tricky Fletcher/Muson curve is causing a perceived difference in volume.
  15. First thing is to try a different fbv to amp cable as that is usually the problem.
  16. Only a reflash of the HD itself would wipe out its memory and even then you have to choose not to keep existing presets.
  17. Ooo that sucks, but a TV shop or damn near anyone that can solder (almost everyone) should be able to do it.
  18. Its an easy for an amp tech. Have him replace the battery (soldered to the board) with a holder so a battery can be snapped in and out.
  19. IMO its a bad choice. IIRC there is no FX loop so you have to go in either through the front or the cd/mp3 jack (1/4 to 1/8 adapter). Going in the front of a Spider never worked for me but you may like it. If its your only amp I understand but there is nothing the Spider will "add" to make the HD better. You are better off with an amp with an FX loop (to go in straight to the return) powered speaker or a power amp/speaker.
  20. Does the xt work otherwise? Like through headphones? The xt will become the soundcard so be sure to have its output routed to headphones, amp, etc, when connected to the daw > assuming its configured for the xt btw.
  21. The battery is on the main board. Pull the chassis and you will see it. A web search should yield some pics.
  22. You don't need to register the XT to use CT, you just need to log into CT and download the tones you want.
  23. The guy is high, trying to create his own market. They are worth whatever someone is willing to pay, I usually see them from $100 - $200. People add the "vintage" label in an attempt to justify the price they want. But in the end its my opinion as well.
  24. Not saying that it is but it could be. It might be the DS1 is a tone sucker. :) Too strong an input signal (like active PUs) and it has to be squashed so the signal can pass through its ad/da path safely - remember this is not analog but digital where the signal has to be logically processed according to the algorithms. How is the rest of the Pods chain setup? Do you have a compressor on? as it will squash anything going into it and increasing the input signal will still get you nowhere.
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