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I imported your setlist into HXEdit 3.01 no problem and the presets appear to be all there.

I don’t have the Axe FX III, but I have the FM3. I don’t think it feels any different than the Helix. I think this whole debate is something that guitarists argue about on the internet, but it’s overblown. The big thing is that hearing a modeler through monitor is just a different experience than hearing an amp through a guitar cab.

Do all and any updates prior to a paid session, and test thoroughly before the session. As to why your Helix is no longer talking to your Windows machine: Have there been any windows updates applied to your machine - Windows is great at knowcking out drivers during updates? Have you tried upating to the latest version of HX Edit and all drivers? Did you update HX Edit before updating the Helix firmware? Have you tried a different USB cable and/or USB output on your Windows machine? If all of the above have been done, try a factory reset

I don't have a Stomp either but they imported into HX Edit and the ones I played through my Floor played fine so the problem must be at jeanmarielaperle's end. The good thing is that you're presets aren't lost.

I've got the Fender Mustang IV v2 and Fender Mustang III v2, which I kept even after I got a Helix Floor several years ago. I do not think that your Fender Mustang I V2 has a line in. Nonetheless, as it is a v2, it may have the Studio Preamp Preset. If it does, that Preset bypasses all the DSP (tone stack and speaker cab emulation) in the Mustang amp. It has been years since I looked at the feature set of the Mustang 1 v2 amp, so if that Studio Preamp Preset is not available, then there may be no way to disable the amp modeling and speaker cab modeling in your Mustang. Thus, if you were to use any Helix Presets containing amp blocks or cab blocks, those would be routed into the front end of your Mustang 1 and the Mustang would then layer it's selected Preset's amp and cab modeling too. The result may not be what you want. On the other hand, if it sounds good then go with it. Typically, when I run my Helix with either of my Mustang Amps (which I do not often do anymore, as I far more frequently use FRFR PA Speakers or Studio Monitors) I disable the Mustang's DSP and Spkr cab modeling, either, by using the Studio Cab Preset (mentioned above), or, simply by routing Helix's output to the Mustang's Line In or Aux In jacks. In the latter case, the Aux In jack automatically bypasses the Mustang's entire DSP modeling. But, again, I do not recollect if the Mustang I v2 offers an Aux In jack. If it does, simply use a 1/4" TRS from Helix's Headphone Output to a 1/8" TRS to the Mustang's Aux In, or, a 1/4" TS L and 1/4" TS R from Helix's L&R outputs to a 1/8" TRS to Mustang's Aux In. All of these cables are inexpensive and readily available, for instance, via Amazon. Overall, the Helix gear is phenomenal! I concur that it will blow away any of the modeling the Fender Mustang's offer. However, I kept mine to use as powered cabs and they do serve that purpose, as well as being backups should the Helix gear fail. Hope this all helps in your considering your options.

Sigh. Where's the *rolleyes* emoticon when you need it… Whatever. If you still wish to have the ultimate last word, go ahead, this thread is now all yours. Signing off.

Absolutely you can place the RC500 after the Helix or you may want to place it in the Helix's FX loop for more control over what gets looped. Cabs/amps will work either way. You will definitely get more authentic sounding emulations of amps/cabs in 4CM but I don't believe your Mustang has an FX loop(?). To be frank that amp is a bit limited for what the Helix is capable of. You may want to turn off the cab and even the amp emulations when plugged in direct to the Mustang. An inexpensive and small FRFR like the Headrush FRFR-108 might be worth consideration and will definitely make it easier to preview presets for your church setup.

Over to you MAC dude! :-)

This is the same apples to oranges comparison that's been posed a million times, and the answer is always the same: You can't get there from here...;) Go to a studio with your favorite concrete-melting amp that has all the thunderous "feel" of a dozen stampeding elephants. Mic it up and play from the control room, listening through the studio monitors. Love it or hate it, you won't "feel" anything...because you're not in the room with a 4x12 blaring away @ 110 dB anymore. Plus, if you pop back and forth between the live room and the control room, you'll quickly realize that mic choice and placement can render the raw sound of the amp you love so much unrecognizable. Sometimes you'll like it, sometimes you won't, but different it will be...100% of the time. Any modeler through an FRFR source will produce the same type of recorded tone that a physical mic-ed amp will generate, when heard through those same FRFR monitors...don't care who's modeler it is, or how much it costs. A recorded tone is not a live "in the room" amp tone... the former being the product of filtration through a microphone and a completely different playback system, while the raw amp tone comes from a fundamentally different different type of speaker/enclosure, with nothing between you and the sound but air. A mic (be it real or virtual) plus an FRFR playback system is the great equalizer...a "feel filter", if you will. And nobody's digital wizardry can put that feel back once it's gone, no matter what the brochure says. If you want to bridge the analog/ digital divide, then you need something like the Powercab, or just run 4CM into a traditional guitar amp and you'll have all the "feel" you can stomach.

Well, I guess that wouldn’t be Captain Lee, they are usually pretty good at replying to email, but also because they are charging £40 more than most U.K. retailers for the HXLT. I’m with “cruisinon” and “silverhead” on this one. Check the serial number, and Firmware version and anything other than default setlists etc. If it has been updated - great, one less hoop to jump through. If it works as expected, but shows signs of being previously used, then you should request an “open box” discount. As for replies to emails - give it a day, then chase it up. Your buyers rights are unaffected, (check with your local Trading Standards office), and if it’s a flakey unit have it swapped for a new one. Hope this helps/makes sense.

I would open the packaging enough to identify the serial number and attempt to register the device to my Line 6 account. If the serial number has already been registered I would demand a replacement from the dealer based on that fact, and report them via support ticket to Line 6 if they refuse. If you are able to register it successfully I would begin to use the device and be on the lookout for any immediate issues. If anything is defective, return it within the dealer’s return period. If you don’t notice anything wrong within that period then there is probably nothing wrong with it. After that your device remains covered under the Line 6 warranty.

I'm the last one on earth to defend retailers, as there are many shady ones out there. However, some places will open gear like this to install the latest firmware... it's possible that's all that was done. Plug it in and see what version is on there, and look for any custom patches in the user set lists, deviations from default global settings, etc... you'll likely be able to tell if this unit has been returned, used as a demo, etc.

Hi, This is something you really need to discuss with the dealer, preferably before you remove it from the packaging and plug in. Also, photographs of the broken seal, or any other tampering, may help. There again, if you take out out of the box, plug in, and all is as it should be - does it really matter? If it is faulty now, and at any time during the warranty period, simply have it replaced. Hope this helps/makes sense.

I've "volunteered" to help a friend move so won't be able to play for a couple of days.

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Usually, re-installing HXEdit 3.01 will restore all of the drivers and fix the connection problems.

If you really want to start with downloading thrid party presets it depends on the style of music you play. But take into consideration the the offered presets are attuned to the rig of the preset creator and may sound different with your rig. And the quality varys as some of them are overloaded with FX - to my taste. If you like what you get, ok. If not you nevertheless have to learn how to use your Pod Go to make chnages to these presets. Try to uninstall V1.10 and try to install V1.11. If you want to get to know your Pod Go try to create your own patches from scrat. Start with an amp model of your taste and select the cab sim matching your preferred style of music and sound. There are interesting YT videos showing how other Pod Go users create their patches. For example: Creating 4 Presets for the Line 6 Pod Go - YouTube Line 6 POD GO - My New Presets!! Ambient Leads & Nice and Cleans Just my 2 ct.

How about vocal mic? Any idea how to use this as a guitar and vocal combo? It's full range but why not a mic input? Which input and adapter needed?