Inerzia
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Everything posted by Inerzia
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Try downloading the firmware manually, not through monkey, and then installing it with the monkey. It may take more than one try anyway. Have you also tried different computers and/or usb cables?
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I also use the ABCD approach and have 1234 for the occasional boost or switching of some effects that don't need to be on at all times. Sometimes I use one of the switches for "solo mode" by assigning, for example, a delay and some boost or distortion to it. I don't use a bank for each song, in fact, many songs use just one patch that may or may not have anything switched during the song, so, some of the banks/sounds are used on more than 20 songs, while some others, that cover more especific timbres, are just used in one.
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Fixing Damage To Frets Jtv89f
Inerzia replied to Leftzilla's topic in James Tyler Variax Guitars / Workbench HD
What Phil said. Have it replaced. -
Pod Hd Pro Dry/wet Recording Questions Before Purchase
Inerzia replied to Giordanocir's topic in POD HD
Sorry I couldn't help you, I've just came across your post. Don't worry, get a reamp box and you'll be able to do what you want. This is, in fact, better than the HD Pro for your purposes. -
No hace falta que pongas una versión antigua de la memoria flash, o por lo menos no hace falta una concreta. En el Monkey, cuando haces click sobre alguno de los programas relacionados con tu HD, o sobre los drivers o la versión de flash, el botón de la derecha dice "Update selection" o "Reinstall latest", dependiendo de si tienes una versión antigua o la más reciente. Te lo digo porque, evidentemente conocerás el botón si ya has actualizado tu HD, pero a lo mejor no te has fijado en que cuando ya tienes la versión más nueva, te da la opción de reinstalarla. Prueba a hacerlo asÃ, y si no funciona, puedes buscar otra versión de la flash (una cualquiera) en la página de L6, la instalas, y luego vuelves a actualizar a la más reciente. A mà me pasó lo mismo con una Variax, y fue asà como lo solucioné
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Si te he entendido, y te refieres a conectar tu HD a dos amplificadores, lo que tienes que hacer es entrar en el menú "setup", sección "outputs", y seleccionar un modo apropiado para tus amplis, según sean combos o cabezales, y según si conectas las salidas del pod en la entrada de guitarra o en el retorno de efectos (si lo tienen) de tus amplis. Consulta el manual, en él se explican los modos, y para qué es cada uno de ellos. Lo que no entiendo es a qué te refieres con "ponerlo con efectos en paralelo de tus presets" ni tampoco entiendo por qué no se oye nada. VendrÃa bien que subieras una captura de pantalla del HD Edit donde se muestre uno de los presets que no funciona como quieres.
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No, pods can't do that
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Well, phase is tricky, so I guess, instead of "no, you won't have any phase problems doing that", the correct answer would be "If you do that you won't be contributing to phase problems" :-) That link to Meambobbo's tone guide, that moondancer just posted, is indeed useful for some, but it wasn't for me, because I use a different approach, so, may be nice to read it and learn some interesting things, but don't take it as the absolute truth. It seems to be peddled back and again around these parts as a "one size fits all" kind of deal, but it's not. Nothing is. Then again, it's a nice guide and will give you a good start (& more)
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5-There is no specific level control for the mp3 input 4-The leds on the footswitches respond to the state of the effect (or the first effect in the chain if there's more than one) assigned to it. When they're not assigned to an effect they don't light up. 3-It's possible to just create a scene on the M13 and use it as a permanent pedal setup, if that's what you want. 2-When do you not have to be careful about input levels when running anything in front of anything? :-) There's a pad switch in case you need it 1-If you are going to use your HD in stereo, two hard panned amps (different amps and/or different cabs/mics/settings) are the best way to really open your sound. If you go mono, choosing two amps that blend perfectly can take a lot of time. For your intended setup, where the drive will be coming from external pedals, you'll probably lose more than you win, because of phase and cancelling frequencies
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Most likely the patches are lost. If it's not human error, then it could be one of the bugs in HD edit. I've lost patches too, because the editor decides they're corrupt and it makes a reset on them, that's why I make backups every week or so.
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I suppose you trust your cables, so I won't tell you to check them (Have you? :D ) It could be a bad connector, either input or output, or, a knob gone loose.
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There's two things you can do to get a little more out of your screen: -On the task bar and start menu properties window (which you can find right clicking on the task bar) there's an option called "use small icons" (My copy of win7 is in Spanish, so some of these names may not be accurate). Check it, and (once you apply the changes) the task bar will shrink just a little. -On that same window there's also an option called "automatically hide task bar". If you are comfortable with that, it can also save you some screen space. If none of the above are enough, maybe this page will help you.
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I too, use a panner before the split or after the mixer, depending on what sound I'm looking for. Using the channel volume on the amps can be interesting though, if it is the effect you're after.
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Thanks! It never even crossed my mind!
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Shouldn't the Fx loop block cut all returning audio when it's switched off? Well, it doesn't. When off, It prevents audio from being sent, but not from being returned, which, in most cases, can be enough, but when there's a rather noisy processor in the loop, the floor noise stays. Should I open a support ticket about this?
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William, when someone answers a question you asked, the best answer is not where you thank and say "you were right". Be fair and give credit to the people who helped you, not to yourself
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There's been a lot of tranny problems in these forums, indeed :P
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Problem Upgrading To Ver 1.9
Inerzia replied to mferrand's topic in James Tyler Variax Guitars / Workbench HD
I tried several times, with Workbench, with Pod HD500, downloading the .vxf file directly from the web site and loading it with the monkey, downloading it through the monkey, different computers... In total, 8 different ways, and honestly, I don't remember which one was the one that worked for me. BTW, the battery needs to be charged. The VDI connection to the workbench doesn't power the variax -
I'm just new to the midi controller side of the HD500, but I managed to configure mine to replicate control changes over midi. Don't trust HD500 Edit for that part of the patch editing. In my case it's not working correctly. It says it configures the switch/pedal as you demand, but it doesn't, so I advice to do it manually. It's one of the simplest edit menus on the HD. Keep in mind that the HD automatically sends program changes when it changes patch, so it should already be changing programs in the Switchblade (if both are on the same midi channel... check that, btw)
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Indeed...
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There's some info on this thread that can be useful for you. My reference monitors, the ones I use at home, are the Alesis M1 Active ('99). They're not the eigth wonder, but I know how they sound, so they work for me. And the monitor wedges I'm using live are a pair of these: http://www.thomann.de/es/the_box_ma120_mk_ii.htm They were really cheap, and sincerely, I wasn't expecting them to sound as good as they do. If I were playing bigger venues, I would probably like to have regular guitar speakers behind me, but for most places, specially indoors, I'm much more comfortable with wedge monitors. They face me, and they project the sound towards my ears, not towards my back or my as$, so I get to use just the volume I need, without deafening the crowd, the band or myself. That also contributes to making the sound guy love working with me... or so he says
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Aren't fuses usually a part of the power supply?
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I've just come across this site http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/LN6.html I don't know how useful this info is for some of you, but for us who live in countries where L6 dealers have changed, and it's sometimes difficult to find spare parts, this is very good news. I decided to post it here because it's one of the most (if not the most) populated boards in the site.
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Good idea. I guess you'll have to open it. Once you locate the fuse, you'll probably be able to easily tell if the thin wire is broken. Let's hope it's the fuse...
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I believe it wasn't always that way, but rather something that came with an update. And yes... it makes life easier :D
