rd2rk

I could be wrong (it happens), but AFAIK, all those types of switches do is to complete a circuit. The only measurement that should matter is continuity. I can't explain the voltage variances, but again AFAIK, any voltage supplied is simply to light an LED if required. As I requested in your other thread, why not attach a sample preset, so we can eliminate user error as a cause?

Not to say it ain't gonna happen, but L6 has stated elsewhere that it's not a priority. If playing with VSTs is that important to you, you'll just have to get a better external AI. My 2nd gen Focusrite Scarlett has the kind of latency you mentioned, and if you have the Floor or Rack, the 6i6 series and up have digital I/O (S/PDIF). Or, you could spend a lot more for lower latency on higher end AIs. EDIT: just noticed that it's you, Sascha. You already know all this, it's not the first time you've posted about it.

I use the FCB1010. It's cheap, and practically indestructible. It's also big and clunky, but any controller with 10 switches will be, to allow space between switches. It's also (with the UNO_ControlCenter Editor - $22) really easy to program. Manual programming, OTOH, while possible, will make you crazy. You don't necessarily need the optional UNO Chip (the editor works as well with the stock chip). It also has two expression pedals. They're not extremely accurate, and you may want to get the UNO chip simply to improve on that.

For those effects, use Instrument level. Use the Send/Return Levels of the FX Loop Block, and the level settings of the actual effects, to get balance. If the output level of the effects can't compensate, you can also tie the level at the Stomp's Output Block to the FX Loop switch so that when the FX Loop is OFF the Output Level is lower. In the future, multi-fx will have quantum chips, and all of that will be done by AIs. At least, until the AIs decide that us meat sacks are no longer necessary...... In the meantime, there's no "one setting fits all" solution. It may be necessary to fine tune the Output level for each preset of the effects, and/or modify the presets in the effects accordingly.

If an effect, IRL, has 7 dials, the Helix modeled version of that effect will have 7 dials. That's what "modeled" means! Imagine a pedal board with 9 effects with an average of 3 knobs each. Each song in your set requires different effects, and different settings of each effect for the different parts.. IRL, that's impossible to manage. With HXFX, each Preset can have 4 "Snapshots". A Snapshot is a completely different configuration of the 9 effects and ALL of their parameters. By pressing 1 button. And you get 4 Snapshots per Preset. Now imagine having 128 different pedal boards with that capability, switchable by pressing 1 button (presets). And, via MIDI, you can switch the presets in your Katana so that you can use different Katana amps/effects with each Snapshot. That's a LOT of power. Simple? No. There's a learning curve, and there's time required to configure it all. You want simple? You already own simple! It's called Katana. And the ME series of BOSS multi-fx is also great. I HIGHLY recommend that you DL and have a look at the HXFX manual BEFORE you go to test it. The manual is NOT highly technical, and will answer a lot of your questions.

I suggest that you take this over to the Powercab thread. As phil_m and cheekybeermonk have said, the Powercab is not either dark or muddy sounding. You DO have to turn it up a bit. If you're playing in an apartment at 60db it ain't ever gonna sound good! Also, you DO have it off the floor, right? One thing I hate about my Powercab is the tilt back feature. It aims it right at your head - IF you're 8 feet tall!

The answer to both is "Try it and see". A realistically modeled guitar amp behaves differently at different volumes and with different tone stack settings, and at any of those infinitely variable settings interacts differently with different effects. Just like the REAL THING. What you're planning to do you might as well have a simple, flat, PA type amp. Then you could have whatever speaker cab tickles your fancy instead of being stuck with the one Katana open-back cab. You're kind of letting the concept of "simplicity" drive your tonal choices. Then, if it doesn't provide the "quality of sound" that you're seeking, what, blame the HXFX? It's my understanding that the bass effects will continue to be added to over time. In the name of "simplicity" I tried using Helix for bass. Lots of different amps, all those speaker cab/IR choices, it had to be better? Maybe, but several hours spent messing with it and I'm still happier with my ME-50b. Again, YMMV. Try it and see. The effects might be the perfect combination with YOUR amp.

If you have a Katana 100 you can use the HXFX with "4 cable method - 4cm). That means that you can put some HXFX before the Katana amp, and other HXFX between the Katana amp and speakers. If you have a Katana 50 there's no FX Loop, so all the HXFX would have to be before the Katana, like an old-school pedal board and amp. There's several choices of EQs, both graphic and parametric, and several compressors of varying degrees of complexity. How "good" they are depends mostly on how good YOU are at using them. Keep in mind that the HXFX does NOT have amp sims. You'll be using the Katana's amps, so unless flat is where you like them, you'll either be twiddling dials old-school, or creating Katana presets. If you have the Katana head (or Artist) you can use the HXFX to switch Katana presets via MIDI. You can do that with the combos too via USB, but that requires a "USB Host" box. The overall qualty of sound, like anything else having to do with the "quality" of sound, is entirely subjective. Obviously (based on sales) a lot of people really like the "quality of sound" of the Helix line. As for Bass, I have the full fat Helix Floor. While it's great for guitar, I play bass through a FRFR112, and I find it much easier and more satisfying to dial in bass on my ancient Boss ME-50b. Probably more to do with familiarity than anything else - "If it ain't broke...." YMMV.

It would be helpful if you included a sample preset so we can see exactly how you're trying to use Helix to control your over-priced antique tube amp......

If you haven't figured this out yet, do a factory reset (don't forget to back up first!). If that doesn't fix it open a support ticket. It's a very unusual problem, as the lack of responses indicates.

I have a preset called "For VSTs". The Output Block is either set to an output that's not in use, or set to -120db, depending on what I've got setup/wired at the time. This prevents "Direct Monitoring". That is, ONLY the VST is being heard. I use USB 7/8 for the VST Input. You can also set the Output Block to USB 3/4 or 5/6, which allows you to put Helix effects in front of the VST. This is useful for pure VSTs that don't have overdrives such as S-Gear, and also for pure amp sims. Another way to use this is to put your VST in a Helix FX Loop. Set the Path 1 Output Block to USB 3/4 or 5/6 and set the Path 2 Input block to USB 3/4 or 5/6. Set the VST track Input to 3/4 or 5/6 (whatever the Path 1 Output is set to) and the track output to 3/4 or 5/6 (whatever the Path 2 Input is set to). Since this is a completely digital route, there will be minimal added latency, as there are no extra AD/DA conversions such as would occur when putting outboard effects in a loop. You'll want to make sure that the DAW track you're using for the VST is sending on 3/4 or 5/6 and isn't also routing to the default Master USB 1/2 where any other DAW tracks are playing back directly to the Helix Outputs.

Great minds think alike.....

There's no way to do what you're asking. If all of the presets use the same blocks, you can write down the settings of the blocks in the different presets, then assign the Block Parameters to Snapshots as required. That will probably take as long or longer than just starting with your Clean Preset and trying to match the other presets using Snapshots. If the other presets use different Blocks (different OD, different EQ, different delays or reverbs) then you're SOL. Snapshots are simply variations of the parameter settings on the existing blocks in a given preset, you can't use different blocks altogether.

Yes, but you can use a Dual Cab Block to prevent that. Unfortunately, IR Blocks are MONO. Go to Idea scale to vote for stereo IR Blocks: https://line6.ideascale.com/

Exactly. Any MIDI controllable device with presets will go to whichever PC# you send it, and Controllers that can send multiple MIDI Messages on separate channels can control multiple MIDI devices. Scrolling (Preset Previous/Next) is not a part of the MIDI Spec (as I understand it), and is implemented in the device being controlled. Helix is the only MIDI controllable Multi FX that I've had, but VSTs such as Guitar Rig, Amplitube and TH3(U) all have Previous/Next functions. They're mainly useful for trying out the multitude of presets they come with. In the ten years that I've been providing users of the FCB1010/UNO with custom configuration (sysex) files, I've always provided a pair of buttons that do Previous/Next, but I've only ever encountered one person who actually ASKED for that.

IME, that's a function of the device being controlled, not the controller. A MIDI Controller just sends a MIDI Message - PC/CC/NOTE/SYSEX. The device being controlled either has a fixed Previous Next function with a specific message value, or allows you to choose the message value to assign to that function. I could be wrong - it happens! Definitely want to RTM before assuming that a controller can do that.......none of mine can.

I just tried sending 071 followed by 049 and 071 followed by 050 using a single pedal press. It didn't work. Either Stomp can only process one CC# at a time or there's a timing issue - a beat required between messages (my FCB1010 can't do that). Using two discrete pedal presses it works fine.

You can send a specific Program Change# (000-127), and if you're in Scroll Mode you can use CC#49/50 to emulate FS1/FS2, but there's no specific MIDI commands for Preset Previous/Next. So, you'd need to first send CC#71 with a Value of 1 to switch to Scroll Mode, then send CC#49 Value 127 (FS1 - Previous) or CC#71 Value 127 (FS2 - Next).

Put the cab/IR block in your signal chain. Pull it down to create a parallel path. Pull down the mixer block to create a separate output. Assign the outputs per your needs.

No, because the Global settings work in pairs - Send1/Return one both EITHER Inst OR Line; etc. You need to be able to split them - Path 1 Send 1 INST/Path 1 Return 3 LINE. I use those for the sake of remembering - Left is ODD (Path 1), Right is Even.(Path 2).

Yes. just place the send 1 (Path 1) and 2 (Path 2) set to Instrument next to Return 3 (Path 1) and 4 (Path 2) set to Line and wire accordingly. As for the PC, I wish I could afford two. When I used a 15/112 tube combo as a second, it sounded different, but I can't say all that much better. I'm getting by with a FRFR112 as second, which also sounds different, but not better.

I guess my biggest problem troubleshooting this was that I never was able to get any of the FX or Output blocks to turn red. Maybe the problem is not the Send level, but the Return? That's what I can't duplicate with my setup, your amp's FX Send level. When I suggested using separate Send and Return Blocks, I should have specified to set the SEND to Instrument and RETURN to Line. You said you tried that, is that what you did? As for the PC+ vs the GM, I've found it's usually best to simplify. Eliminating the FX loop variables saves a lot of hassle. OTOH, if you REALLY like the GMs, and can afford it, get the Powercabs to try BEFORE you sell the GMs.

If only ONE snapshot clips, then it HAS to be a setting in THAT snapshot. Try lowering the Send Level on THAT Snapshot. Be sure you're saving it, and be aware that whenever you change assignment levels you need to switch out and back for it to take effect. This is the sort of problem that L6 should use as a case study on why you should use two Power Cabs and L6 Link! There really isn't anything more I can do, Even with your original preset, I can't get anything to clip on ANY snapshot! Not to say that you're not hearing what you're hearing. You are using two amps, different ones at that, whereas I'm playing a different guitar and looking at meters on a mixer. It could be just a hair of a difference in a level someplace that's causing your problem, and I just can't see it on my equipment. Anyhow, Good Luck!

I don't know what to tell you. The FX Loop levels are NOT clipping. The meters tell the tale. There's PLENTY of headroom. Since the levels I set are NOT connected to Snapshots, and the first two snapshots are fine, what is it about the other snapshots that is causing the clean (Path 2?) to clip? I just had another look. You've got the Return on loop 2 set to add 4db on SS2,3 and 4. Try deleting that. Here, I did it on the attached. Hemispheres Mod2.hlx

You had the problem of different levels from the amps with the Loops On or OFF. Now when you turn the Loops On or Off the Output Block levels change to accomodate.