rd2rk

Of course we will! It's YouTube! :-)

This. In Global settings Ins/Outs set Return Type to AUX IN. You'll control the backing track volume from the iPad. Bypasses effects and no extra block required.

I'm not asking for the scientific details. That's proprietary info and would, indeed, be boring and over my head. The thread over on TGP reflects the attitude of many that modeling companies don't actually have a process beyond "Sounds good to me!". The WAVES article just gives some insight as to the extent of their efforts to get it right. The idea that they're just blowing their own horn is a really negative way to look at it. Of course they are. They're trying to sell a product that they're proud of! You don't brag about your band? BTW - the only WAVES product I own is GTR3. I think it sux and they haven't updated it in years beyond a NEW PRS based product that they'll probably never update!

Actually, it's been partially addressed by DI and others over on TGP., where I made the same post in a thread of the same name. I know it's wishful thinking, but it would be to the benefit of all modeling companies (IMO) if they provided the kind of in depth info as WAVES provided. Not that people will believe it.....

Do a full reset. If that doesn't work, open a support ticket.

Great article from WAVES: https://www.waves.com/how-waves-modeling-captures-analog-magic?utm_source=wnletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=analog-gear-unlock-btn&utm_campaign=weekend-content-analog-modeling-distortion-dec-14 I'd love to see similarly in-depth articles from L6, Fractal and all the rest. Not holding my breath!

I'd use 4cm, which requires a Loop Block. The 5 pin DIN on the Laney is NOT MIDI. IIRC (don't remember where I read it), each pin controls one of the 4 functions like a regular footswitch (ON/OFF). You might be able to use a VooDooLabs Control Switcher (HXS MIDI OUT to VDLCS, four 1/4" TS to DIN cable into IRT). Contact VDL for info on this scenario, they may make a cable for this or know where you can get one. Here's the VDLCS manual. There's a bare-bones info page on making a cable:

There are many solutions here, and a lengthy thread on the subject over on TGP. https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/powering-hx-stomp.1984275/

Attached 1/2 step down. Bass 1_2step dwn.hlx

No one is listening here. Open a support ticket.

I don't have an attenuator so I haven't tried this, but if it's a LINE level signal. send it into a RETURN (don't forget the RETURN BLOCK), and in GLOBAL SETTINGS-INS/OUTS set that RETURN to LINE. Should work fine. Expect a small bit of latency for the A/D conversion, but you probably won't notice, it's tiny.

If the rebuild is stopping dead, open a support ticket. It's not a 2.82 quirk.

Over on TGP there are a number of very informative and utterly baffling threads related to this subject. Particularly entertaining for the masochists in the audience are the AITR vs near field vs far field IR discussions. BYOD.

According to the attached Excel SS from Tito83 (THE expert on input impedance matters! :-) ), the Industrial Fuzz should be 1M. At any rate, I tried with the Industrial Fuzz bypassed and that alone didn't fix the problem. I THINK (I tried a lot of things) that even with EVERYTHING bypassed it didn't solve the problem. I thought that was REALLY strange! Only solution I found was as I described above. OP may have hit the weirdness lottery on this! Helix Effect Impedance Chart.xlsx

If you DL presets from elsewhere, sometimes rebuild will happen. I copied the presets from one Setlist to another and rebuild happened. If it's the third Tuesday in March at 3123 ft on the 37th parallel, and you turn your Helix 4.5 degrees to the East, rebuild happens. Rebuild happens. I've just accepted it as one of those mysteries of life.....

OP starts the signal chain with an Industrial Fuzz (1M?) in parallel with a Pitch Shifter, using a split crossover at 650. There's all sorts of level shenanigans going on. I pulled the Pitch Shifter up to Path A before the Industrial Fuzz, eliminating the split crossover and that solved the problem. So, something about the way the split crossover/parallel effects levels are set up is where the problem lies. What, exactly, I dunno, not going there! EDIT: AND this only woked with the Pitch Shifter BEFORE the Industrial Fuzz and BOTH enabled. Go figure.

OP - can you attach all 4 presets so we can look at the MIDI?

OP left much room for interpretation. There's no loops involved. I tried both presets. The recording from USB 5 is louder on the RedFeather preset than on the SynthBlink preset. The only real difference I could find in the presets was that the Output Block Level on Synth Blink was +2.1. When I set the Output Block Level to 0.0, it made no difference in the recording, which is as it should be. I took two of my own presets, with different output levels (simple volume, not Output Block, both of those at 0.0). There was no difference in the recorded USB 5 levels. Conclusion: I have no clue what's going on with those presets. Using Reaper FWIW.

The USB 5 signal is unprocessed, and at UNITY gain - the Output is = to the Input. The Processed signal is NOT at Unity gain - the Output is > the Input. Do this. Load a New Preset. Record the New Preset from USB 1 (processed), and from USB 5 (UN-processed). The signals should be equal (approx -18db hard bar chord strumming). I just tried this, so if it doesn't work that way for you, there's something else going on. The reason that the DI signal is at Unity is to allow headroom for re-amping.

"B presets"? Please clarify. Attach a preset that's "popping".

There's so many ways to do these things. Basic rules are that if you want stereo, those devices have to go at the end of the signal chain. External drives usually work best before the Stomp vs in a loop. MODS can go wherever they sound best, keeping in mind that they're only stereo if there's no mono device after them in the chain. You either have two mono loops or one stereo loop. Beyond those signal chain realities, whatever works for ya.

Pardon my French (pun intended). I'm using Google Translate. If I understand your problem (and the awful Korg Manual), there are two ways to play an arpeggio on your Korg. 1) Manually - activate the Arpegiator by pressing the button, then hold down the notes of the chord to be arpeggiated. 2) By Program - a saved program that arpeggiates a specific chord in a specified pattern. I've attached a preset that: On load, sends a Program Change, then sends CC#6 with a Value of 0 (ON). Unfortunately, Helix will only send ONE NOTE at a time. I don't have a Korg, but using a SW Synth (VacuumPro) I can build an arpeggio by sending succesive notes in LATCHING mode, and I can modify the arpeggio on the fly by turning the NOTEs ON/OFF individually. Let me know if this works for you. Pardonnez mon français (jeu de mots voulu). J'utilise Google Traduction. Si je comprends votre problème (et le terrible manuel de Korg), il y a deux façons de jouer un arpège sur votre Korg. 1) Manuellement - activez l'arpégiateur en appuyant sur le bouton, puis maintenez enfoncées les notes de l'accord à arpéger. 2) By Program - un programme enregistré qui arpège un accord spécifique dans un modèle spécifié. J'ai joint un préréglage qui: En charge, envoie un changement de programme, puis envoie CC # 6 avec une valeur de 0 (ON). Malheureusement, Helix n'enverra qu'une seule note à la fois. Je n'ai pas de Korg, mais en utilisant un SW Synth (VacuumPro) je peux construire un arpège en envoyant des notes successives en mode LATCHING, et je peux modifier l'arpège à la volée en activant / désactivant les notes individuellement. Faites-moi savoir si cela fonctionne pour vous. Test Arp.hlx

Track Input 1 Sliders at default - double click the slider Track Monitor button on AUTO Master at default - double click slider With those settings, your track levels when recording should be peaking around -15/-16db, the combined Output Level (center meters on Master Out) about the same. Playback should also be the same. The Output knob on the Stomp controls what you hear when recording and on playback, but does not affect the actual recording.

Also - as others have said, Helix is very finicky about USB cables. You may have to try a few to get one that works. And if you're using a desktop, always use the rear USB ports. Did any of you resolve the issue? If so, please post back with your solution.

You're Welcome. Hope something there works for you.