fflbrgst

That's not good! Usually if there is a problem with the preamp processor, the display will show symbols or black boxes. Have you tried doing a reset? Hold the A button in while turning on the power, hold hte button in for several seconds after. Note that this will delete any user patches you have created.

That would depend on the policies of the place you bought it - contact them first.

When you plug a mic into the XLR input on your UX2 the signal is going through the UX2's mic preamp! To the OP - yes, for a condensor mic you need phantom power. For all mics you need a mic preamp. Some mics have a stronger (voltage signal) output than others, so can get away with a less-strong preamp (like the one in instrument inputs on devices) - but typically the impedance does not match when that is done, so it is an even noiser sound.

You can plug both a condensor mic and dynamic mic in at the same time with phantom power and it will not damage the dynamic mic. Remember to always plug in the mics first, then turn on the phantom power, and turn off the phantom power before unplugging the mics. the 1/4" inpiuts do not have mic preamps, so will not boost the signal enough for usable sound.

Yes, that would work - the UX2 has phantom power and a mic preamp in it, the GX (as OP asked about) does not. There's really no reason to use the GX if you are using the UX2!

Unfortunately, this is a problem that has happened before with some people. I hope your Express is under warranty, because it will have to be replaced.

Try a factory reset - hold the A button in, then turn on the power, hold the button in for several seconds after that. Otherwise, try reflashing the memory from Monkey

I think the problem really stems from the fact that the output is really a headphone out, not a DI at all - it just can be used as a DI by keeping the volume down to a non-clipping level. As a headphone ouput, it would make sense to cut off the speaker sound.

Unless the phantom power supply is ALSO a mic preamp, no it won't work well.

No, I don't think it will work. You need a physical preamp that boosts the (very low) mic signal to a usable level, I don't think the GX has that ability. The 'tube preamp' in PodFarm is a tone changer, not a boost amp - yes you can use it to increase the level, but it will be noisy due to the low signal level.

15 month-old thread, the buzz has probably worn off!

IF the problem persists after the facotry reset, most likley you have a bad component or solder connection somewhere in the amp, hard to find/diagnose.

Before opening up the amp (I assume its no longer under factory warranty), I'd do a back up of all user patches and then try a factory reset.

You haven't mentioned what gear you have, but you need some type of interface to get your guitar sound INTO the computer, like the UX2 or Sonic Port.

Yes, this is all doable, however be careful of overdriving the input section of the amp using the headphone output of the UX2 (keep the volume level down). You coudl also put a 2-way adapter on the 1/4" monitor output of the UX2 - one side to your Equators and the other to the power amp. Note that if you have acoustic treatment in your mixing room, the Equators will give you the best translatable sound anyway, and checking on other speakers should become unnecessary.

No, you plug your guitar into the looper, then the looper into the amp input, so any sound/patch changes you make on the amp will change your loop playback sound (if thats what you were thinking of). Alternately, you could take the headphone/lineout from the amp (note this is stereo and cuts off the speaker of the amp when used) and plug that into your looper (keep the amp volume low as your looper is expecting a guitar-level signal, not a lineout), then go from the looper to another amp or PA system. The Spider amps do not have an FX input/output loop to use the Boss (or other external FX) easily.

Hopefully the OP got it figured out - the post you replied to is almost a year old!

I think you are confused on the use of your equipment. The UX1 is an audio interface, it simply (only) converts your guitar's analog audio signal to digital, which yo uthen route to your DAW or to a stand-alone modeling software. The A-D conversion from the UX1 will be better than plugging your guitar with adapters into the line-in or mic input on your computer's soundcard. Once you have the signal in your DAW, you use PodFarm or Amplitube, or any other plugin to modify the raw guitar sound.

Not sure what you mean by the 'green volume light' on the FBV, but this sounds like 'loose knob syndrome' on the amp - vibration from the volume is making the volume knob turn enough to 'wake up', the 'random' volume the amp changes to is wherever the knob is pointing to at that time. Some people have put a rubber oring under the knob to give some resistance to the turning.

Note" it's not 'reamping' unless you send the recorded signal out of your DAW to an amp (or other device), then back into a new track in your DAW. I think what you want to do is simultaneous recording of clean and HD track? You could do this, but it'll take work: split your guitar signal (use something like the Radial Tonebone) to the Pod HD and a 2-input audio interface. Run the audio output of the HD to the interface as well, then record the 2 inputs to two separate tracks. I do this with my Spider 75 - I run the stereo audio output of it to two inputs and record that as a stereo track in Reaper, and take the DI guitar signal to a separate input on my Tascam US800 interface and record that to a mono track in Reaper. I use a Radial PZ-Pre to split up the signal, running 1/4" to the amp input and XLR (DI) to the Tascam.

Try a factory reset (hold the 'A' or Clean button in while turning on the power) and see if anything happens. Unless you have a receipt or registered the serial number when you received it, it will not be under warranty. Which model is it?

I'm not familiar wiht the Spider 2 amp, but if it has two speaker output jacks (left and right), you need to use cables from both into both jacks on the cabinet, or you will create an imbalance in the amp which will eventually cause a problem.

The 'black boxes' in the display indicate a problem with the onboard processor - usually a circuit board needs to be swapped out when this happens. Not sure why it would turn on the second time, but as long as it does, keep using it. Spider 3s are rather old now, hope you got a great deal!

Spider IV 75 Some known issues: Knob 'shake' can wake up that parameter and change the sound. The 4-way directional control and button to hold in to access parameters are not very solid-feeling. Monkey/updating is and has always been a big issue - lousy software. CAT5 cable/connector - connectors on amp and FBV are not solid at all, the cable is easy to kink/break connectors. The LCD display angled as it is to be seen from front or above is best - on top is is no good is you have the amp on a tilted stand or on top of a speaker cabinet so it is too high to see. Although the trend today is to use some type of external device for more control, most working guitarists want to be able to adjust the amp 'on the fly' by using the amp controls. This requires some kind of display, specially when the knobs control multiple functions. A player does not want to have to rely on his 'iDevice' during a show - what if it dies on him? Also, many amps/mixers that can be controlled by an iDevice do not have a security feature, so anyone wiht the same software can connect to the amp and change settings! If you don't have more than 4 preset locations, then individual control of the FX is required (shortboard style), because a guitarist needs to be able to turn on/off different FX for different sounds - if they are not easily accessible, then there is no point in having them in the amp, might as well use outboard effects. The shortboard, considering it is just a switchbox, is too expensive - for that matter the Express is as well - 4 switches & a continuous controller (that does not feel very robust). I assume the extra $$ is because it also functions as USB amp connection. There should be direct communication of the amp with a computer - no FBV should be needed (look at the competition's offerings). The Spider's modeling has come a long way since the original Spider 1 came out, but there have been no updates in 4+ (?) years now. The biggest drawback in the amp's sound is the lack of dynamics - the preamp/amp does not put through the 'feel' of the guitarist's playing, this is not unusual for solid state amps. "Best looking" affordable amp? Amps are chosen for their looks by those who care about sound. 'Affordable' is relative. Line 6 has offered a broad lineup of relatively-low cost amps for some time, and should not forsake that in the quest for 'something better'. The Amplifi line seems to be aimed at bedroom jammers (as the Spider Jam was), don't forsake the live players.

If you just updated Monkey, then you WERE connected! What hardware are you trying to update? Keep trying, its always possible that the servers were down when you tried to connect.