richiecat

I can't remember exactly what it said, but during the firmware update process on an Android device it does show a message saying that the update is faster if it is done on a PC, but it doesn't say that you have to connect to a PC! - You can continue and update the Amplifi on the Android device without using a PC at all - which is what I did... and it worked fine, although it does take much longer this way due to the Bluetooth connection being much slower than USB connected to a PC. If you have a PC and want to update this way then you need to download and install the Line 6 Updater and the Amplifi driver - If you don't have the driver installed then the updater wont see the Amplifi to allow you to update it. The .tmf files that you have downloaded are the firmware update files that the line 6 Updater utility uses to send to the Amplifi to update it - I'm guessing your PC doesn't read them because you don't have the Line 6 Updater installed? Hope this helps...

I updated my Amplifi 75 using an Android device and it worked fine.. But I didn't have to install any other Amplifi Utility app.. I just used the Amplifi Remote App.. Go to the settings option on the main menu then select Device Flash and select the version that you want to install. It does take a while though to install the update - and it looks like it's not doing anything - so if you think it's not working, just leave it to complete for a while

I have now managed to get hold of a Griffin iMic.. but it doesn't seem to work for me (no output) I have the latest version of Firmware installed on my Amplifi 75, USB connected from amp to DUB H4 hub, iMic connected to the hub, but nothing.. Is there anything else that you had to do to get this to work?

I have updated the Amplifi to the latest version. Im assuming I don't need to enable the output via USB anywhere?

I have tried this with a Behringer U-Control UCA222 USB interface, which seems pretty similar to the Griffin iMic, but it doesn't work - I don't get any output at all - the "USB" light on this unit doesn't even illuminate,,, if I plug this into a PC the light comes on immediately. I have the same powered USB hub that you are using (Dliink DUB H4) and have the Amplifi and the interface plugged into it's USB ports. Im assuming that this how you have it connected with the iMic? (not sure how else I can connect it!) So It seems that maybe there is something unique about the iMic that allows this to work, unless im missing something? Rich

I have a Digitech Trio+ that I mostly use with my Firehawk 1500 - and it's great. I also have an Amplifi 75 that I'd like to use it with and connecting it the way you mention works ok, but the issue is that the Trio+'s looper is only able to record the dry guitar signal from the guitar input when connected like this, which means any effects selected on the amp get applied the live guitar and to any loops that are playing - the issue being you can't have a clean rhythm sound recorded on a loop and then solo over it using a distorted tone. The way I have it setup on the Firehawk is to use the FX send output to feed the Digitech's FX return so that the looper records guitar sound with effects applied, but the problem is the Amplifi dosnt have a FX loop or line out... But there might be a way to do this.. There is another thread on here where someone is using a powered USB hub with the Amplifi and a "Griffin iMic" audio interface connected to it which provides a line out from the amp, so if you had one of these.. You could connect it like this: Guitar -> Trio+ Guitar In Trio+ FX Send -> Amplifi Guitar In Line Out from Griffin iMic - > Trio+ FX Return Trio+ Mix Out -> Amplifi Aux In I have a Griifin iMic on order and will try it and let you know how it goes when it arrives... So, what do you think about the Trio+ ? have you used it much?

Is it completely dead? Any lights on? Im just wondering if the switch in the headphone jack is stuck jammed on when the plug was inserted, switching off the speakers.. Do you get sound through headphones?

The reason that a mixed signal from both inputs sounds terrible through a conventional guitar amp is probably because the amp is not able to handle the frequency range of the signals from the harp (a guitar has a much more limited frequency range), but the Amplifi and FIrehawk 1500 are both FRFR (Full range) amp/speaker systems and should be able to handle the mixed signal from the 2x outputs from the electric harp... So I suspect one of this might be a good solution? You would need a small mixer to mix the two outputs though as the amplify/firehawk only have a single input...

Im not 100% certain, but I believe that the FIrehawk FX has the same amps/cabs/effects as the Firehawk 1500, but the one thing that it doesn't have is the ability to provide the wet/dry/wet outputs that the1500 has for it's speaker system. The Firehawk FX unit only has left/right outputs.. So are you using a pair of CLR's to provide stereo? I wouldn't be surprised if it sounded better than the firehawk 1500 - one CLR alone would cost more than the FIrehawk 1500 does! Using 2x CLRs for left/right wet signal and the FIrehawk for centre dry signal .. would sounds amazing I would bet, but not cheap!

You can connect the ouput from your Audient interface to the firehawk 1500's aux in to use it as a P.A. However using the built in guitar amps and effects in the firehawk sounds really good (in my opinion) and you get the advantage of wet/dry/wet output from the firehawk 1500's 6 way speaker system. Using the left/right aux inputs will just give a stereo output... It is also possible to connect the firehawk directly to your PC using a USB cable which give audio in/out for recording and playback in your DAW.

Cool.. Thanks for the update... I'll give this a try when i get hold of an USB audio interface i can use and will report back how i get on..

I now have the trio plus and can say it's awesome .. I'm really impressed with this as a songwriting / practice tools.. I have trio connected to the firehawk 1500 like this: Guitar -> Trio Guitar Input Trio Fx Send -> Firehawk Guitar Input Firehawk Fx Send (Left) -> Trio Fx Return Trio Amp Out -> Firehawk Fx Return (left) Trio Mix Out -> Firehawk Aux in (left) The effects loop needs to be enabled, moved to the end of the effects chain and have its mix set to 100% on any patches that you want to use with the Trio Plus.. It sounds great setup like this and also has the advantage that loops get recorded with effects so you can switch patches without affecting the sound of recorded loops.. so you can have a recorded loop with a clean sound and then play a distorted lead tone over it ;-) The recorded loops come out in mono (but to both left/right channels), but you direct lead tone is still stereo...

I'm curious .. does this still work without the ipad connected to the usb hub? I would have thought that the amplifi and the audio interface were both usb slave devices and would need a host device to control them, which the ipad would be .. Has anyone else tried this with any different usb audio interfaces?

I have ordered a Digitech Trio Plus and just wondering if anyone has any updates with how well this works with the Firehawk 1500 and how they have it connected. The method described by ColonelForbin looks good, but Im not sure what this will do to the Firehawk's stereo effects as the amp and mixer outputs from the trio+ appear to be mono?

If you have an ipad you can use LoopyHD as a looper with the ipad connected to the Firehawk 1500's usb port via the an Apple camera connection kit.. and it works great!

If you are just using the monitor ins, then it would be using the left/right coaxial speakers for left/right output and the main 12" speaker as a sub - the horn will not bet used. To use the rest of the speakers you would have to have something connected to the guitar input and a blank patch selected - this mono signal would then be the "centre" channel that uses the main 12" speaker and the horn (for high frequencies). I dont have a Helix but there are other posts on here were people have explained how they setup the mono output from Helix to the guitar in - it needs to be an output before stereo effects are applied, then this would allow you to get the full wet-dry-wet signal output from the firehawk speakers.

When using the Red/White mode on the volume knob to balance the levels between patches, is there any easy way to save the patches after making adjustments? Im assuming it doesnt save the patch when adjusting the Red/White volume level,,, I have the FBV3 foot controller too if that makes it easier to do this..

Sounds like it could be faulty to me.. After displaying the version number for a few seconds, the display should change to the current patch number and name.. You could try doing a factory reset and see if that fixes it.. to do this - Switch off the amp and then switch on while holding down the small encoder knob and the big volume knob at the same time..

I still think that this is clipping at the mixer input - there is usually an input gain control on most mixers that i've seen - can you turn this down and and see if it stops clipping? Also are there any other options on the mixer to select instrument/line level for the input channel.. if so try changing this. I think the PRS thing is probably just that this guitar is higher output than the Fender Strat so the resulting output level is higher, causing more clipping. The XLR outs are fixed line level and are not affected by the amps volume control.

I have recently got the FBV3 and have to say it's great.. makes the Firehawk 1500 much more usable! And to answer cyberguitarist's question - you can assign most effect parameters to be controlled bt the "tweak fx" knob, this can also be assigned to the expression pedal on the FBV3 to control these parameters - there are some limitation as to what can be controlled, but i suspect these will be fixed in future updates..

I would say turn down the input gain on channels on the mixer where the XLRs from the Firehawk are connected would be a better option that changing levels in patches etc .. if it's not clipping in the amp itself then it must be the mixer inputs that are clipping - do you have a pad switch on the mixeer channel thats switched on?

I think the XLR in (from the mic) would need to be a line level signal, not direct from a mic as the amp dosnt have any mic preamps built in - this signal from a mic is too low level. You could connect the mic to a mixer or mic preamp and then connnect the output of this to XLR in on the firehawk.. But a better/more conventional way of doing this if you already have a mixer / PA setup would be to use a send from the mixer to the XLR in on the firehawk and have the mic connected to an input on the mixer. You would then setup the mix to the send output to include the mic and any other sources that you want in your monitor mix - what you are doing is using the firehawk as a replacement for a stage monitor to monitor vocals etc.

Might be a silly question and im guessing you've already thought of this, but do you have the Guitar Volume on the settings page of the app turned all the way up? This can also be adjusted by pressing the volume control once so the leds turn white.. then turn the volume up full... this is used to balance the guitar sound with a bluetooth or line in backing track, but if you're not using a backing track like then you might as well have it up full to get max volume (the backing track level is fixed as far as i can tell) With a blank patch loaded there really shouldnt be any other volume controls loaded as part of other modules etc, but with amp/effects loaded make sure their volume controls as up full too (you might need to adjust this on some patches to balance levels etc). Your'e right about some of the high gain amps that they probably do add more volume to the overall output, but if you're only using clean sounds this is not really going to help..

I have the Firehawk 1500 and FBV3 foot controller.. The Looper does function as decribed in Sceickhoff's flowchart - Thanks ;-) But the issue that i have with it is erasing a loop - once the looper is stopped (by double clicking), pressing and holding the footswich does erase the loop audio, but when you first press the switch it starts playing the loop and then when it regesters it as a long press it erases it. The result of this is that it's impossible to erase a loop without playing a second or so of the loop audio first! This makes sightly difficult to use in a live situation where you would'nt want the loop to start playing whenever you wanted to clear it!

Its sets the inital pedal position that is used when you first switch to the patch, before the pedal is moved..