datacommando

Hi again, Yes, as I had already stated in my previous post, I had seen that picture and read the specification on the website - it doesn’t show an option to connect an expression pedal. I watched one of the YouTube demos of the Mod Dwarf and thought it was a little strange that the guy was using an “auto-wah” plug in rather than the real thing. If you feel you have been misled by the manufacturer then you should be entitled to get your money (investment) back. It wouldn’t be in anyone’s interests for them to deliberately dupe you, or anyone else. As you note, a further spend in the region of $150 is a big ask, because that puts you close to the asking price of the Mod Duo which has 2 expression pedal jacks. I’m not sure what the law in Germany is regarding the “sale of goods” and “fit for purpose”, but ask for your money back, as the unit does not do what you expect it to do. Hope this helps/makes sense

Hi, Mmm… that might well be true, but on their website there is a full spec and a diagram showing the ins and outs that are utilised on the Mod Dwarf. Nowhere does it intimate that an Expression pedal input is included anywhere in the unit. Oddly enough, the Mod Duo actually has 2 Exp/CV Jack sockets, so they must have considered that. Again these 2 jack sockets are visible on the product. I don’t think that the manufacturer is trying to deceive you about the spec of either device. The photos of the items are there for all to see. As for your situation of having “to turn around and TRY to sell” this thing, well also on the front page of the website, right beside the “learn more” button is a flash stating “30 day money back guarantee”. See it here: https://moddevices.com Hope this helps/makes sense.

O.K. First, when you add a wah block it’s function is automatically assigned to EXP 1(Pedal 1) and likewise any volume block is assigned to EXP 2 (Pedal 2). You can change this, but it might become confusing. There is no external switching involved other than controlling external amp channel switching or turning reverb on or off. External expression pedal toe switch support is only available on the Helix Rack, and HX Stomp. I couldn’t find a wiring diagram for your pedal, but probably it would simply be a matter of disconnecting the latching switch from the circuit. If you don’t want to use a foot switch on your HXFX to turn on the wah, you could set your Mission Aero EP-25-PRO to engage when it reaches around 3 or 4% of travel from the heel position. Here’s a thread discussing that option. EDIT: Of course you also have the option to use Command Center and Snapshots to control anything with anything else. It's all in the manual. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a411710a6112a67116f0b/application/pdf/HX Effects 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev C - English .pdf Hope this helps/makes sense.

This is in reference to the situation where you use HX Edit to create a backup of everything from your hardware unit. The one that keeps the Favourites, IRs, etc. That type of file cannot be imported into HX Native. As you state, you can import “regular presets” and even “bundle” files, but you cannot do that with a “backup”. Strange, but true. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I haven’t managed to turn up any specifications for that model with a single switch and output. You might be better consulting Mission Engineering as the will have a definite answer. https://missionengineering.com/support/ Hope this helps/makes sense.

Strange, I have 2 M-Audio EXP permanently hooked up to my Helix since 2016. Working perfectly, never any issues. Possibly a Global reset has changed something. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, again, This is the spec from the Mission page The EP-25-PRO features two expression outputs with independent polarity switches for each channel. This allows for compatibility with a wide range of different pedals, rack effects, modeling amplifiers, keyboards and MIDI controllers. The EP-25-PRO is available in black stealth style powder coat, or gold carbon fiber graphic finish. Pedal dimensions are 11″ x 4″ x 3″ Weight is 3.6lb Potentiometer is dual 25K Ohm Linear More details and video here: https://missionengineering.com/support/ep25-pro-aero-electronic-user-guide/ Hope this helps/makes sense

Hi, You don't say which Mission model and they do tend to be product specific, but I going to guess the you have the SP1-L6H. This is the spec from the Mission page, but I have highlighted in bold the relevant info. The Mission SP1-L6H connects to the Line 6 Helix Rack or Rack controller with a single TS cable for expression, and a single TS cable for the toe switch. For use with the HX Stomp, a TRS cable is required. The toe switch function is only supported on the Helix Rack, Rack controller, and HX Stomp. Other Line 6 devices do not have a toe switch input. The switch output may be left unconnected if this function is not required. The Mission EP1-L6 is recommended for other Line 6 products where a toe switch input is not available. Pedal dimensions are 10″ x 4″ x 3″ Weight is 3.2lb Potentiometer is 10K Ohm Linear Switch is TS Momentary Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, once more, Now I'm really confused, because I have a Helix floor unit which has AES/EBU (which if I understand correctly) is output only and I have never had a need to use it. The Helix Rack has AES/EBU both In and Out (AFAIK). I thought that you wanted to use it as a digital link between the rack and some sort of AV or ADAT system. The info I supplied previously should work with that type of equipment Honesty I have no idea as to how you can hook up a couple of digital microphones via AES/EBU. Once again, that is something that I have never needed to attempt. The only digital mics that I have encountered are the cheap type used for podcasting with a USB connection. I'm very old and still use microphones with XLR connections. LOL. Sorry I don't have a solution for this one - unless I have totally misunderstood what you are trying to achieve. Hope this makes sense. EDIT: Load this preset into your Rack and then change the input from SPDIF to AES/EBU - it is split into 2 mono paths and when they merge, Path A is panned 100% left. and Path B is panned 100% right. Switch the Output to 1/4" or XLR, but not Multi, because that includes Digital. This should work if you can get a signal going in. Digital Dual.hlx Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, That is the default configuration for the EXP on Helix. Helix 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev F - English. Page 8. Expression Pedal Move the expression pedal to control volume, wah, or a combination of amp and/or effects parameters. Activate the hidden toe switch to toggle between EXP 1 and EXP 2. (The scribble strip above tells you which one is active.) If an external pedal is connected to the rear panel EXP 2 jack, the built-in pedal becomes EXP 1 only—see “Controller Assign” NOTE: Adding a Wah, Pitch Wham, or Poly Wham block automatically assigns its Position parameter to be controlled by EXP 1. Adding a Volume Pedal or Pan block automatically assigns its Position to be controlled by EXP 2. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f041b611d61cac763b/application/pdf/Helix 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev F - English .pdf The manual is your friend. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, This might be a good place to start for the basics in “Snapshots”, because can be as simple, or complex as you like. I may be useful to check out more of Jason’s videos to give you a grounding in using this stuff. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Technically you don't need drivers for Macs as the Helix/HX range of products are class compliant USB Audio/MIDI devices. Having said that, I noted that you mentioned HX Edit in your post. If you have already downloaded and installed HX Edit, AFAIK the installer package should have included the latest Line 6 Helix Driver 2 (v1.1.0) which then allows you to select all the sample rates available in your unit - i.e. 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, 88.2 kHz, and 96 kHz. If you use the class compliant option then you will be stuck with only being able to use the 48kHz rate. If necessary you can download the driver separately from the “DOWNLOADS” menu above. From the drop downs select HX Stomp from the “Hardware” section, then under “Software” select Driver then Mac OS and click “Go” It may be advisable to scroll down and read the release notes for the drivers. Hope this helps/makes sense. Enjoy

Hmm… not something that I’ve seen as an option in Helix. As suggested by “kduck” in the above post, the Euclidean delay and a lot of maths may get you close. Check the Bleat Chop Trem which has variable divisions, but when I messed around with it seemed to speed up while using it. There are also lots of people wanting to be able to have the filter sweeps start from zero. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi again, The 100v for Japan might be a legal requirement for that country. It's not a big deal. This should not be difficult - as noted by everyone on this thread you simply need a step down transformer to suit your local voltage. Major bands do world tours and have to cover every possible situation, do you think that they buy new equipment for every electrical supply that they encounter. No, they probably have to rely on good crew technicians who can patch in whatever transformer is required for any given situation. Some people worry too much. Although it's a really good example of don't buy something in a different country because it looks like a good deal, it may cost more in the long run. For the second time this week - "Caveat emptor!"

Ah, ha - Logic! Therefore you must be using an Apple Mac. I use it almost every day. If you have disconnected your Scarlett as the Input Device, then usually Logic will default to to Built In Audio for recording and playback. You need to have your HX Stomp connected to the USB and you can check that your Mac can detect it by looking in the Audio MIDI Setup application which you can find in the Utilities folder which is inside the Applications folder on your computer. If it shows that it is available, then from within Logic select the Audio preferences and then Devices. Here you should select your Line 6 HX Stomp for both Input and Output device, connect your monitor speakers to the HX Stomp and you should be good to go. You have just swapped the HX Stomp to be your sound card. In Logic create an Audio track and set the Input to be 1 & 2 with input monitoring turned off. Now whatever you play into the Stomp should appear in stereo on the track and you can hear the processed audio with no latency direct from the stomp. You can also simultaneously record the dry unprocessed audio on another track, USB 5, enabling you to re-amp the track as many time as you would want to. See the HX Stomp 3.0 Owner's Manual for full instructions about USB Audio. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a418962611d636e7c51b/application/pdf/HX Stomp 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev D - English .pdf Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: Load this into Logic and set HX Stomp as your Audio Device. Track one is your processes audio and track 2 is the DI dry signal. HX StompProject.zip

Hi, These guys are the Official U.K. repair shop for Line 6. Not sure if they can, or will, supply the parts for a DIY repair job. I used them for a joystick that went bad and the were quick and efficient. Give them a call and see what they say. E&M Electronic Services Ltd Unit 28, 56 Goulds Close Bletchley Milton Keynes MK1 1EQ 01908-375699 http://www.eandm.co Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Do you have the Scarlett USB audio and the USB from the HX Stomp connected at the same time? You could check to see if this happens when only the HX Stomp is connected to the USB audio on your computer, because it is designed to acts as an audio interface without the need for the Scarlett2i4. Just disconnect the Scarlett then connect select the HX Stomp as the USB sound card and see what happens If you are sending your audio out from the Stomp, and then into the Scarlett, it is converted from analog input on the HX to digital through the processing then back out to analog to the Scarlett then back to digital and down the USB to the computer. If the USB from the Stomp is also plugged into the computer it could be that it is seeing another stream of digital audio coming from there. You don't say what computer and DAW you're using and how it is configured and how you are monitoring this. That might to be able help figure out the "strange buzzing", unless you have a neighbour who has left his Harley chugging away out in the street. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Maybe you could visit your local guitar store and check out your PC1 against another. That is only if they have one in stock of course.

Hi, Japan is different from most counties as the mains AC power is 100v and depending on which area of Japan it will be either 50 or 60Hz. The Rack unit that you have must be specifically made for the Japanese market, but it should not be a problem using it in another country provided that you use a suitable step down transformer. Do a Google search for AC power transformers - for example in the U.K. or Europe, something like this. https://airlinktransformers.com/category/japan-europe-voltage-converters Some background info about Japanese Electricity here: https://tokyofromtheinside.com/electricity-ac-japan/ Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: The info in the Japanese Helix Rack and Control 3.0 Owner’s Manual is a direct translation from the English version and simply says: “Connect Helix to a grounded AC power outlet.”

No problem - happy to help you achieve what you were aiming for. Enjoy.

Hi, I had a quick look at your patch and made a couple of modifications. Connect your mag pups to the Guitar In and the Piezo jack to the Aux in. Now everything should run in parallel as separate paths up until the looper which will merge both paths and that's followed by a single volume pedal that controls the final output. There was a Send/Return block on the first slot of the Piezo path - not sure why it was there so I took it out - easy enough top put backing if you really need it. Anyhow, load this up and see if it gets you near to where you want to be. Hope this helps/makes sense. Attached Preset: Elec & Piezo 2.hlx Elec & Piezo 2.hlx

It could become even more interesting when Helix firmware v.3.2 lands. Don't know what is in it but over on TGP, Digital Igloo made this comment on Aug 22, 2021 "A few big (and small) things are coming, but they're not what you expect and they're not going to upset any Helix/HX users." Mmm... D.I. being enigmatic as ever. Don't ya just luv intriguing comments like that one.

Hi, Nope, not really a way to delete a Snapshot as such, but if you are in HX Edit you could simply copy a blank Snapshot and paste it over the one you don't want, then rename the one you want to get rid of. For example: if Snapshot 4 is not used, select and copy it. Then select Snapshot 3 (the one you want to get rid of) and paste the copy of 4. Now rename it to Snapshot 3. Hope this helps makes sense.

I’m sorry to hear about your troubles when trying to update your Helix via the new “automatic” method. I fully realise that not everyone has a stable internet connection, or issues with intermittent WI-FI connectivity. Don’t panic, because you can always download the software and install the updates offline. You don’t mention what your computer and OS are, but I will guess Windows plus the same routine should be the same for Mac. Firstly make a FULL BACKUP OF YOUR PRESETS. Now go to the "DOWNLOADS" menu at the top of this page and from "-ALL HARDWARE-" select HELIX then go to the "-ALL SOFTWARE-" menu item and select HX EDIT, now select your Windows system or Mac OSX from under the "-ALL OS-" tab, the click “GO”. From the next page you can select the latest version of HX Edit for your HELIX . Then you will also need the latest version of Firmware Flash Memory. Also on this page you should find the latest version of Line 6 Updater - you will need this too. Download all these items to your computer and note where they are. Then: Remove all the previously installed Line 6 software from your computer especially the Windows drivers and then restart your computer. Make sure to turn off the power to your HELIX. Unplug the USB cable from the computer and HELIX. Ensure that HX Edit is definitely closed and that you have your HELIX reconnected to your PC by USB cable (do not use a hub, some front USB ports on PCs act like a hub) and hold down Foot Switches “6 & 12” while turning the power on. This puts your Helix into “Safe Boot Mode” (You may see a black screen, but keep going). Now, launch the Line 6 Updater Utility and select "Offline Mode". Your HELIX and current firmware version should now show up in the window, click on the dark green coloured band and you should now have the option to select a local file - point it at the Flash Memory file you downloaded and let it get on with the update. When it finishes, allow your hardware to rebuild the presets which may take a few minutes. When it completes you can install the new HX Edit v. X.XX software and you should be good to go. You can now re-install your backup presets if you wish. Here’s a list of reset options for your Helix unit. Reset Options Helix Floor/LT Button Combination Description 2 LED light Fun 3 & 4 Test Mode 5 & 6 Global reset 7 & 8 Reset setlists to factory, Keep IRs 8 & 9 Reset setlists to factory, Clear IRs 9 & 10 Reset setlists to factory, Global reset, Clear IRs 10 & 11 Upgrades existing presets to latest format 11 & 12 Clear current preset 5 & 12 Clear setlists, clear IRs, Return system settings to default 6 & 12 Safe boot mode To use Reset Options: Power off the Helix Hold the desired button combination Power on the Helix Release the button combination Please note: Buttons are numbered from top left to bottom right. No guarantees are given or implied, you do this at your own risk. If it doesn’t work, raise a ticket with Customer Support. Hope this helps/makes sense

Good to know that everything is working and you are happy with your Helix. Continue being amazed - everyday it gets better.