silverhead

No - the Metal Pack is not compatible with the HD300. You can continue to use it with your UX.

The HD Edit program is a device editor that runs on your computer. It does not require much RAM. it is not necessary to be running the editor in order to use the pod. The Pod normally is used without being connected to your computer and without the editor; you can edit your tones directly on the Pod. The editor is just more convenient when you are planning on doing some heavy editing.

The HD Desktop is itself an audio interface so it can replace your UX. but you could also continue to use your UX and connect the pod analog outputs to the UX inputs. Your choice. But you can only have one of them connected via USB to your computer at a time. Riff works will use whichever audio interface device is connected via USB - your UX or the Pod. You will be able to use whatever plugins you want in your DAW.

In the Line 6 Audio-MIDI devices control panel there is a switch for a +18db boost that can be added to the usb signal. Try adding that boost.

Glad to hear it. Have fun!

prediction: we're all wasting our time here because the timing of the next update (if there ever is one) is entirely unpredictable.

Yes, they would ..... because they were all HD500 tones in the first place, but must have been changed to have file extension .l6t during the zip process. The files in the X3 or Xt folder (assuming there is one when unzipped) won't work with the HD500 even if you change the file extension to h5e.

Most likely a power supply problem. Try using a different PSU but make sure it matches these specs EXACTLY: https://www.globalfulfillment.net/gfsnet/line6/10Expand.aspx?ProductCode=98-030-0041 If it's not the power supply then you likely need to take/send the device for servicing. http://line6.com/service_centers/ but first...... where did you purchase it? If you can take it back, do so. If not..... caveat emptor.

Here's a preset you can use as a model. I created it a long time ago so that you could record the Wet and Dry signals simultaneously from the Pod, but you can adjust as desired EXCEPT don't mess with the signal flow structure - don't put anything before the path split. Read the comments with the preset for DAW setup. http://line6.com/customtone/tone/217206 Also, this was created for the Pod HD500. TYo use it with the HD Desktop you will need to run it throught the Pod HD patch converter utility: http://www.jzab.de/content/pod-hd

Yep - similar problem....... and same advice...... see above...... it's your usb port/connection/cable.

Sounds like you have a problem with the USB connection. Check your cable, and try using different USB ports. Don't use any USB hub. Also, you won't hear sound from your computer. The Pod becomes your soundcard when connected so you need to connect your speakers or headphones to the Pod. You should use Line 6 Monkey to help you with the driver and software installations. Run the Monkey to make sure all software is up to date.

Use hd500 edit. Select any preset in the set list you want to replace, thus making this set list the active set list. Use the Open Setlist command to open the saved Setlist on your computer. Then use the Send Setlist command to send it to your hd500 device.

In custom tone, use the search feature to restrict your search to hd500 compatible tones.

Anyone who claims to have a definitive answer to that is lying (note the correct use of the qualifier 'generally' above....). Pick whatever answer you want, then wait and see .... :P

There's no way around it. It's a design limitation, similar to all previous Line 6 FX boxes. The X3 series had the same design - Each of the STOMP, MOD, and DEL blocks could be used to assign exactly one FX model in each group. It's done to ensure that the overall DSP capacity of the device is never exceeded. The dual-path Pod HD devices (Bean, Pro, and 500/500x) took a different design approach, allowing the user full flexibility and control in the selection and placement of the FX models - even selecting multiple instances of the same FX if desired. That's why the DSP Nanny is necessary on those devices, intervening when the user attempts to add FX beyond the DSP capacity of the device. Some people take this as an indication that the device is under-powered; others appreciate the ability to use the existing DSP capacity to its full extent.

If plugging directly into an amp you will probably get best results by choosing the PRE (not FULL) amp model in the amp selection menu. If you look closely at the amp selections you will see that for each amp there is a PRE and a FULL option. The difference is that the PRE amp models do not include the power amp section nor the cab/mic models. The FULL amp models include these elements. This design is specifically to differentiate between output modes: Studio/Direct output mode (used with the FULL amp models) for output to mixer/PA/DAW, or Live output mode (used with the PRE amp models) for output to a real guitar amp (ideally the power section of the real amp, bypassing the preamp of the real guitar amp). Having said that. there is no 'right' configuration. Experiment with the different setup/output mode options and see what works best for you.

Just to be clear......... Arne's solution means you don't need a second mic. The sax/flute player uses the same mic - the Y-split allows you to use two distinct M20d input channels for it, and control the channel muting via 'scenes' as you suggest.

I use a PA system. I connect my Variax to the Pod HD500 via VDI (no need for 1/4" output from the Variax) and the HD500 analog outputs direct to mixer/PA in Studio/Direct mode. With this scenario I can get good electric and acoustic guitar sounds from the Variax through the Pod. For electric guitar I use the full amps (including cab/mic models) and for acoustic guitar I use no amp. When using a real amp, you would typically use the preamp models for electric guitar, but the real amp colours the acoustic guitar sound too much and you really can't avoid it. Ever plugged an acoustic guitar into an electric guitar amp? That's what you get. So if you use the Variax acoustic models I would definitely go with the PA solution. If you don't, then a real amp can be a good choice. Lots of users do that and get great results. Just make sure your Pod presets don't use the cab/mic modeling - otherwise your real amp will provide a duplicate effect and the sound can get very poor.

The perception may have as much or more to do with tonal frequencies as with volume levels. Two presets/patches may be the same volume when heard in isolation, but one may have a deeper overall frequency - more bass and less mid/treble tone. Adding drums and bass means you are adding more sound to the lower frequency range, which will mix with and overwhelm the low range of your guitar tone, meaning you are only hearing the less audible mid/treble tones from the guitar. Compared to the guitar tone that emphasizes the higher mid/treble ranges, the latter may sound louder because it cuts through the drums/bass tones more easily. You can experiment with this. Take one of your presets that seems to be lower volume when the drums and bass are added. Try increasing the mid/upper frequency ranges of the guitar - you can do this with the guitar's tone knob, its pickup selector switch, or the amp tone stack settings. You may be able to hear the guitar come to life and be be perceived as 'louder' as less of its overall tone is 'lost in the mix'.

That is correct. They do.

Yes - there is a patch translation utility here: http://www.jzab.de/content/pod-hd Thanks go to community user jzab for creating and sharing this utility.

The Pod HD series has a universal power supply. All you need to do is use the appropriate adapter - no need for transformers.

Some Ethernet cables are called 'crossover' cables. These do not work with the Line 6 products. You may have one of these; if so you need to use a standard (non-crossover) cable.

Click on the Downloads tab at the top right of this webpage (not in your browser Downloads section). In the subsequent page select James Tyler Vairiax in the drop-down menu for Product; select Flash Memory under Software, and hit GO. In the subsequent page, scroll down to firmware version 1.9 and hit DOWNLOAD. Store this file on your computer. Then run Monkey and select Update from File, pointing to the downloaded file.

Don't know - have you tried it?