hurghanico

FYI, for the safety of the guitar when used on batteries in the past I was recommended by "psarkissian" (Line6 Service Engineer) in this forum to use a TRS jack cable to connect my Variax to the amp, I've been told that it is good practice to do so in all cases where powered guitars (eg also guitars with active PUPs) are connected to an amp. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

The POD HD300 and 400 can use only 1 amp model in the chain.. the HD500X can use (if you want) up to 2 amp models in the chain.. I never used them but IIRC many if not all HD500/X factory presets use only 1 amp, and if the second parallel chain is used it is often to have some effects in parallel or to switch via the pedal from the signal of a chain with an amp to the other one without amp. When creating new patches (very easy thing to do, especially with the Editor) the default starting configuration of the chain is always with only 1 amp slot. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

With the device turned on and connected thorugh USB open the Line 6 Audio driver control panel and turn up the Hardware Monitor Level.. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Based on what I know the same tactile micro switches are mounted on: Bass POD XT Live, FBV Shortboard MKII, Floor POD Plus, M9, M13, POD HD300, POD HD400, POD HD500, POD X3 Live, POD XT Live, Spider Valve HD100, Spider Jam, Spider IV SERIES, Spider IV1508, HD500X. Original part code number: Line 6 Tactile Switch 24-31-1105 ( QN172384 ) specs: tactile switch, 6mm X 6mm. 1.5mm plunger height, switch body 3.0mm tall (without actuator). However any generic tactile microswitch with the same specs as the original will do. https://www.proaudioservice.co.uk/product/line-6-tact-switch-6mm-x-6mm-24-31-1105-qn172384/ That said in case you have problems with some switches you could first try to clean them similarly to what did the guy in the following video clip with the POD X3L microswitches (same as the ones in the HD500). A solution that works in most cases. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Since you can't install Monkey on your Macbook Pro I suggest using a PC (if available) just to install the Monkey and then the latest firmware in the device, after which you can go back to using the POD with your Macbook Pro to authorize the model packs and also use them via the editor. PS. If you have an outdated version of Monkey installed on your Macbook Pro but still working and recognizing your device and able to see the latest 2.62 firmware available you can still use it to install it into the POD. Monkey doesn't necessarily need to be the latest version if it is still fully working. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Your Spider Jam has a speaker and that speaker affects all the sounds you get from that amp. The HD Pro X has its own cab/speaker/mic models and each of them has its own sound which represents not less than 50% of the modeled amp sound. Ideally you shouldn't send the modeled speaker signal into a real speaker for guitar, the modeled speaker signal should go instead into a flat response monitor, otherwise the result will be undoubtedly muffled because guitar speakers (real or modeled) are like heavy filters (flat response monitor are not) and sending an alteady filtered signal into another filter is too much in most cases. So if you are connecting the POD to a guitar amp it would be better to disable the modeled cab, or if you are instead connecting the POD to a flat response monitor or headphones you should try different mics and/or cabs models given that each of them change a lot the result. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

If Line6 thought that guitarists would have a hard time understanding the possibility of clipping the input ( if it were that easy ) of the device why do they mention "clipping" in the manual at page 42 about the functioning of the clip indicators found at the input and output of the available paths? However, I have no interest in continuing this discussion. Bye bye and good luck with your +13dBu sine signal.

IIRC the HX input has a claimed headroom of 123dB so I really don't think it could ever clip with a +13dBu sine signal. Regarding the use of the PAD in the manual of both HX and HD it is written: <<Guitar In Pad If your guitar or bass has active or high-output pickups, you may want to turn this on. There’s really no rule; use what sounds best.>> As you can see there is no reference to the possibility of input clipping.

What is described in this thread is somehow reminiscent of what also happens with the old HD series. In the search for a more natural and dynamic response of the models even with HD, especially those who use guitars with humbuckers or active pickups can benefit from the use of the PAD switch to lower the signal by about 6 dB but this trick at least with the POD only works with the input called Guitar In. So whoever uses a Variax connected to the VDI input cannot use it. But since in the HD there are 2 virtual inputs always active and both set by default to the same source, those who use a Variax as a trick can instead set input2 to an unused source, which thing also causes the input signal to be lowered by about 6 dB. And certainly whether you like it or not using these tricks the difference in response of the models is really noticeable. Maybe I am wrong but I am more inclined to believe that the PAD switch works after the A/D converters in both HD and HX. I believe that the devices input can handle fairly strong signals without clipping by itself, rather it is the models that probably are best calibrated for input signals that do not exceed a certain threshold. My 2 cents

This is what has already happened with previous Line6 devices. For a few years they receive updates with model additions and shortly before the successor is released the development of the previous one stops. So Helix will also have the same fate of the HD and other predecessors. Frankly, I believe it will always be like this. Personally, I am not particularly interested in the possibility of adding new models or at least that would not be the main reason that would push me to upgrade to a new unit. In fact, before moving on to the HD series I was using a XTL complete with all the additional model packs. Currently with the HD series (even with all the model packs added) I have far fewer models available than before. So in the end I preferred quality over quantity. Also because I realized that almost all existing amps are more or less variations of amps from 3 main families Marshall, Fender and Vox, and that by combining the various elements available in the device you can create a multitude of different sounds and nuances, including many of those obtainable with the models not included. As for me, the most interesting feature (that I would like to have) of the newer devices is the possibility of using impulse responses to add more speakers/cabs to the stock ones. And you know that about half if not more than the particular sound of an amp depends on the cab used, so in the end, having more different cabs available is like having more different amps at disposal. However I can still get all the sounds I need with my old HD500 for the genres I play most: rock, blues, jazz, funky, reggae. Since lately my HD500 occasionally gives some signs of aging, if I can't easily fix it maybe this year or the next I will buy a new device mainly for reliability reasons, but in case I haven't decided yet which one. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Development of the HD series finished before Helix was released, and so there have been no updates for a few years now, nor will there be in the future. The Helix series still receives updates in which new models are added, some of which correspond to the amps and effects most desired by users. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Too much BASS and little PRESENCE in the default amp models settings. (and often too much DRIVE) Fortunately, dedicated amp controls are at disposal, easy fix. The output mode is also important, make sure it is set to Studio/Direct. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

If it is a jittery pots problem, parking all knobs/pots (except MV) at minimum might be a solution as there is a very small area in that position where jitter never occurs. Another possible solution to try could be to do a global reset after which you should also do a pedal calibration. (If you try the latter solution, know that the names of the setlists return to the defaults, even if the current presets are not touched anyway). --->> Global reset and pedal calibration instructions And just for information purposes (you never know), spraying a cleaner on the pots but from the outside with the plastic knob still in place is useless. The plastic knob must be pulled away and then the cleaner must be applied to the metal pot in particular on its shaft, or even better to soak a cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol to wet the shaft with it, and then make a few rotations of the pot . (Isopropyl alcohol is particulary good for electronic instruments because perfectly cleans the metal contacts but never affects the plastic parts, and evaporates quickly). Every now and then the internal metal contacts of the output jacks (including that of the headphones) should also be cleaned, which if oxidized or dirty could give strange problems similar to those described. Finally also move from time to time and eventually clean the switches near the pedal (1/4 "OUT and PAD). _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

I am also Italian and I live in Italy. Actually I still use an old HD500 so maybe I should just reply to posts in the dedicated forum and not in this one, but I happened here by chance, nevertheless I believe that even if the technology has certainly evolved, certain basic aspects in modeling remained almost unchanged. Every now and then I happen to take a look at the posts in this forum and also in those of other brands, and often I re-read the same questions and observations I have already read countless times in the past. So I almost automatically feel authorized to give answers or suggestions. But I'm not going to invade someone else's field. Forgive me those who see me as an intruder (it's only temporary, like a quick injection). LOL Your way Guido of using tube amps is what is referred to as the old school way, used by so many rock guitarists, and so many records have been recorded with the amps and guitars used that way. Ok.. Back to the tone controls.. Except perhaps for a few isolated cases I would consider all the tone and gain/master controls of the amp models as passive (as you imagined/supposed), even those invented that probably have been implemented as if they were so, added just to give the possibility to be able to further customize or refine the result according to your personal idea of the sound you should/would get from a certain model. Given the many more options offered by the models they look initially more complex to use than the real amps they emulate, but offer much more versatility and possibilities to sculpt the sound to get what we have in mind.

Taken from an old post on TGP by the amp models designer Ben Adrian --->> https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/post-21593186 "" All these extra knobs. If an amp has a small number of knobs, then we will invent the knobs in a way that makes the most sense to us. First, let me say that the Channel Volume (ChVol) knob is ALWAYS a flat response, post amp model level control. This is like a fader on a console. It's in the amp model, but it's not tied to the tonality of the amp model. It's how I level different presets so that they play well together. The Drive knob corresponds with the Drive or Gain knob on master volume amps. With amps that don't have a master volume, it corresponds with the Volume knob. So, on the Deluxe model that you reference, the Drive knob is the Volume control on the front panel. The Master Volume knobs in Helix map to the Master volume knobs on amps with Master Volume controls. If the amp does not have a master volume control, then we add one similar to where an amp tech might add one to an amp if the amp was having one installed. In the case of the Deluxe, this is between the preamp and the power amp. This can be thought of as a passive volume reduction. Master @ 10 is like it's not in the circuit. As it is turned down, the level from the preamp into the power amp is reduced. Tone controls. We try to make them fit the character of the amp. In the Deluxe Reverb, the tone controls are exactly like that or a twin reverb except the 10k linear midrange knob is replaced with a fixed 6.8k resistor. If you want to match the model to the actual amp, set the model between 6.1 and 6.8 (values drift in the real amps. My idea, though, was to make the midrange knob on the deluxe behave like the midrange knob on other black-face fender circuits that have a midrange control. In other amps, tone controls gets invented on a per-amp basis. In the tweed champ, the bass and treble are after the amp modeling, but the midrange control is between the two preamp gain stages. The midrange knob can become a cool drive feature. In some amps, the invented controls come between the preamp and the power amp. In short, we tried to make it sound good, and we tried to respect what is happening in similar classic amp circuits."" In a nutshell just use your ears and set the controls where they give the best results for you.

Se hai già installato POD GO Edit e funziona, sicuramente anche il driver ASIO di POD GO necessario per gestire l'audio è già installato. En. Transl. If you've already installed POD GO Edit and it works, then surely the POD GO ASIO driver needed to manage the audio is already installed.

Io uso ancora un vecchio POD HD500 ma il concetto di base in risposta alla tua domanda rimane lo stesso. Come programma ti consiglio l'ottimo Reaper, che è liberamente scaricabile e senza alcuna limitazione anche se in versione di prova. Se hai installato i driver del tuo POD nel computer non ti resta che settare Reaper per utilizzare il POD come interfaccia audio. Una dritta: Se sei costretto a rimanere a casa e desideri utilizzare REAPER, puoi scaricare una licenza REAPER temporanea (valida per tutto gennaio 2021). Complimenti al team Reaper Engl. transl.: I use a POD HD500 but the basic concept in answer to your question remains the same. As a program I recommend the excellent Reaper, which is freely downloadable and without any limitation even if in trial version. If you have installed your POD drivers on your computer, all you have to do is set Reaper to use the POD as an audio interface. Tip: If you are staying home and would like to use REAPER, you can download a temporary REAPER license. (valid throughout January 2021). Kudos to Reaper team

before the Input jack _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

If you don't want to use the guitar volume control you could use instead a physical Volume pedal (not to be confused with an Expression pedal).. ..or alternatively forgo the use of Dry Out and instead have the device process the signal with a Volume Pedal block in the chain that is able to lower the level of the input signal. In this case you should connect one of the POD standard outputs to your AI. Forgot to say (first thing to check) that your AI input should be set to accept the same type of signal set at the POD output. LINE goes to LINE, and MIC/INST goes to MIC/INST. Mismatching input and outputs types of signal creates always problems, like unwanted distortion or excessive background noise. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Generally speaking the device Guitar Input can handle well also Line level signals but the models response is calibrated more effectively for Instrument level signals like the one coming from standard electric guitars. That said guitars with active pickups or preamplified signal also exist and they typically give Line level signals, that's why there is also a PAD switch available on the unit, ie to make the models to handle well also the hot Line level input signals by lowering their level by about 6 dB. Moreover, (probably not everyone is aware of it) by default setting the HD500/X input signal is already boosted by about 6 dB, since there are 2 virtual inputs in the chain and the 2nd one replicates by default what the 1st one does, thus the result is that 2 same signals reach the fist model in the chain instead of just one, but this behavior can be easily changed through the input settings. In conclusion, I suggest not to act through the impedance settings (1 MΩ or 3.5 MΩ generally are good settings) which if set to low values on the one hand would lower the signal level a little but at the same time would darken the tone, but rather as a solution use the PAD switch for Line level signals, and possibly correct the input settings by neutralizing the 2nd virtual input by setting it to an unused source. On my forum/website there is a post with a more elaborate explanation about the HD500/X input settings and how they affect the models response: https://allabouthd500x.altervista.org/allabouthd500x/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17&sid=0bfedf9c060e83a3b7bb215fc87ceeae _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

The only other way I know is by updating the firmware in safe mode: Power Up the device while pressing the Nav Pad Down button. On the device screen you should see UPDATE FLASH. Connect now the device to the computer through USB. If the device is recognized by the computer (if not there is nothing else to do than have it repaired) you can use the Monkey program to re-install the latest firmware,. Normally it should not be necessary to have any cable connected to the device except the USB cable for recognition by the computer and therefore by programs. The fact that you have to insert a jack cable to partially operate the device is very strange and a sign of malfunction. If no firmware update procedure (normal and/or in safe mode) and reset works, and if you are sure that the power supply is working fine, for me the unit is broken and only a competent technician can fix it. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

Yes, you should do a global reset and then a pedal calibration each time you reinstall the firmware. I already gave you the link to the instructions in my previous post. Click on it. If you have a friend with the same device and well working ask him to let you try his power supply. The original one is called DC-3G, link: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PODHDPwr--line-6-pod-hd-floorboard-power-supply DC-3G specs: ...if you can't find it you can use a compatible one with the same specs like the following: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154WFJDG _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

The first thing you usually try to do when your device isn't working properly is a Global Reset and then a Pedal Calibration. Furthermore, the procedures mentioned above should always be done after a firmware update done. https://line6.com/support/page/kb/pod/pod-hd500-hd500x/after-pod-hd500x500-flashre-flashupdate-mandatory-global-settings-reset33-r160/ If this does not solve the problem, it may be that the power supply is no longer providing the current (amperes) required and must be replaced. In the event that a Variax guitar is connected to the POD it is even more important that the power supply gives all 3 amperes needed to power both. If even with a well-functioning power supply this does not solve the problem, probably some hardware element is broken, and I don't know if it would be worth having it repaired for the cost. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

IMO keeping also an old computer around just to run the still valid/useful but older generation softwares wouldn't be a bad idea. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

As already said above by pianoguyy the physical pedal is nothing more than a generic controller which as such needs first to be assigned to some FX to be able to do something. Normally when starting with a new empty patch you add a Wah in the chain it is automatically assigned to the EXP1 pedal mode, and if you add a Volume block it is automatically assigned to the EXP2 pedal mode. The Toe Switch (under the pedal) serves to switch the built-in pedal mode from EXP1 to EXP2 and viceversa but also to turn on/off the Wah (or other FX assigned to it) when you hard press down the pedal in toe position. But this last on/off switching assignment never happens automatically, therefore the Toe Switch needs to be assigned always manually. Within the CONTROLLER page in the Editor is easy to do any assignment or changing the default ones as you prefer. Another thing worth considering that seldom is talked about is that patches created and saved on a device provided also with the additional 2nd expression pedal may behave not as expected on another device with just the built-in pedal (ie working both as EXP1 and EXP2). In other words those particular patches probably need to be redone and saved on the device without 2nd pedal to behave correctly. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips