codamedia

I don't believe the "latch" (toe switch) of that expression pedal works on the Helix or the LT. (somebody, please correct me if I am wrong). What I am trying to say is... with a Helix Floor or Helix LT... to use the expression like a wah (with the toe switch) you need to use the internal expression pedal. Of course, there are other ways to set up the wah on/off.

The video that is posted in this thread is a great "how to guide" for both HX Edit and on the device itself. Don't be afraid of command center.... it is your friend :)

Not on the HXFX you can't.... The HXFX has a maximum limit of 9 blocks. Less if you are using DSP intensive blocks. I don't own an HX Effects, but Helix Native has compatibility mode for each hardware so I set that to HX FX and tested it there. The primary configuration you listed can certainly be done... with a little DSP to spare. NOTE: In Native I cannot insert a Loop... but in my experience a loop does not draw much (if any) DSP. There is enough DSP left over to insert "almost" any other effect so I can't see adding the loop being an issue. Yes, the Loop is a block so to use a Volume you would need to replace something else. I assume you are talking about changing presets and the answer is Yes and No. There will be a slight gap when changing the preset.... For some this is a huge issue yet for others they can always find the "moment" they are not playing to make this change seamlessly. If one song uses rotary and the next uses tremolo... change the preset between songs. Same could apply for Phase vs Flange since it is "rare" to have both in the same song. There does appear to be DSP available for almost any effect (not the Poly stuff... but you seem to know that) if you took our the rotary.

That's how it works.... From the latest (V3) HX Edit manual.... "*NOTE: There are no options offered to move or reorder IRs in a single operation. Use the Copy, Paste, and Clear functions to rearrange IR within the IRs list as needed."

The Helix already provides an option for polarity... providing polarity is the only issue with the wiring.

Are we confusing the terms "reset" and "restore" in this thread? HX Edit can RESTORE (from a backup) but doesn't RESET Hardware start procedures can RESET but can't RESTORE! Of course... if you only use the default GLOBAL options then a RESTORE or RESET of the Global Settings can get you to the same result.

Can't say I have that problem... however I also didn't think I needed gain reduction meters until I had them..... LOL Upvoted....

It's similar for me.... 85db - 90db when dialing in presets, and for practicing tunes I need to play live. My side of a stage measures around 95db... so it gets me really comfortable playing at the levels required and of course removes Mr Fletcher and Mr Munson from the equations :)

That's a fast attack than I was expecting.... That's certainly a "slow gear" type effect which isn't included with the Helix. The Filter > Legacy should include something called a "slow filter". Start there and try adding the chorus, delay and reverb.

I have no idea what that patch sounds like... but I suspect it's a reverse delay and/or reverb which is different than a slow gear. The Helix has a reverse delay but not a reverse reverb... that I am aware of. The other option is the technique used by pedal steel players. Get really good at using the expression (volume) pedal and give your preset a ton of headroom :)

I'm a multi-instrumentalist, and everything goes through my Helix with a single line to the FOH. You can't cheat the final levels, you need to take the time to adjust them all accordingly. I use compression on almost every preset.... but not to deal with levels, just to put a certain "je nais se quois" on the tone.

@rd2rk already mentions above how to do this with a Helix.... I'm just here to say this is known as the "half cocked wah" or "fixed wah" and is used all the time in the industry. You probably hear it a lot more than you realize - you just didn't know it because it isn't moving. It is most commonly kicked in for solos but it is also the technique Knopfler used for the entire guitar track on "Money for Nothing".

There is no way (and has never been a way) to switch presets and have the tempo retained (on just one preset) without setting that setting to Global. However you are correct... when you do that ALL presets pick up on that tempo. What you are eluding to an is "auto save" function... and that have never existed in the Helix line. (to my knowledge) Are you sure you are not talking about retaining tempo when switching "snapshots".... for that you just need to set the global snap setting to "recall" instead of "discard". Then you can change snapshots all you want and the new tempo will be retained..... BUT once you change presets and come back it will load the "saved" tempo once again.

Let me start with the amp.... I've owned two Hiwatts over my career... and the Helix NAILS IT, but not with the default settings. . Crank the master setting in the amp up to 10. Raise the mids to about 9 Raise the DRIVE to about 5-8 for humbuckers, 7 - 10 for singles coils. Adjust to dirt level tastes. Leave the other "amp" settings. Now the cabinet The internal 4x12 Fane Who Watt cab is great... it's the default MIC that is not! Change the mic setting to a ribbon.... I use the 121, but all the ribbons are great. Set the distance to 5" Set the early reflections to about 50% Too me.... that's a Hiwatt Tone I am very used to and is extremely dynamic to touch and guitar volume. A bit of grit, but not too much. Of course.... adjust to your tastes.

It sounds to me like your Footswitch "Type" is set to "latching" on the preset you like, but is set to "momentary" on the other presets that are not "latching".

That is excellent... thanks for posting.

It is mentioned above but yes.... snapshots can be changed by midi. Simple answer... you need a Midi Controller can send CC numbers and values not just PC (Program Change) messages.

There is no magic bullet for the HX Effects.... you will need to get into a Midi Controller. However.... a Midi Controller is almost always setup to do PC (Program Changes) out of the box which would leave the buttons on the HX Effects free to become dedicated for Snapshots and Stomps. As you learn more about the Midi Controller you could then offload more duties. IMO - it is worth the time to learn how to integrate a Midi Controller with your gear. It really isn't that difficult and can open doors you had no idea were closed.

The speaker simulation is the biggest component for going direct. Although there are no cabs in the HX Effects it does have an IR loader. Any nice "amp in a box" style pedal (including your Joyo R-15) combined with a NICE set of IR's in the HX Effects will give you what you need.

Yes - this is powered through a VDI cable which you seemed to miss on your opening post, but is extremely important. Keeping with POD devices and a VDI cable... off the top of my head this is what works... First Generation of Variax (no pickups) POD XT Live POD X3 Live POD X3 Pro (rack) HD500 HD500 PRO (rack) Basic functions (power & patch changes... but no connection to Workbench for editing) HD500x Helix LT Helix Floor Helix Rack The 2nd generation Variax (with pickups) works in reverse... basic functions (power and patch) with the older products, and ALL functions with the newer products. NOTE: I may have missed a product or two... I think some older amps, Firehawk, etc... may work with some Variax guitars to a certain degree of success. FWIW: I use an older Variax 300 with a Helix LT. It took a while to figure out all the caveats to making that work without surprises! Power was never an issue, patch changing was. Everything was seamless with my Variax 300 & X3 and HD500.

Amplifi and a few other Line 6 products have bluetooth.... but the Helix does not. There are reasons for this. When it comes to wireless... what standard should they include? Analog? Digital? 2.4G? 5.8G? etc... etc...? Throw a standard 2.4G in the Helix and it's USELESS to "many" (but not all) pro's. I've been on several tours where the sound company dictates the wireless units. WHY? So they have 100% control of every channel used without surprises. They hand over the IEM's packs (you use your ear pieces), and they hand over guitar & mic units as requested! All top notch, all pro, no surprises! The last thing I want to pay for in something like a Helix is a wireless I can't use in more than half the gigs I do. The POD Go fits that bill.... it will mostly be used in environments where the players actually gets to use anything they want... therefore it's the transmitter for that receiver. That's not how it works in the levels above the norm! As for WIFI, another "please no" from me. My iPhone/iPads are loaded with apps that are suppose to control monitor mixes and settings for a variety of gear. THEY NEVER WORK WHEN YOU NEED THEM! It's far easier to just say... "can you turn up the kick drum in my mix please?".

You don't say what mixer you use.... it is important to make sure you have control of Phantom Power on your mixer. There are a few small models where phantom is "always on" at the XLR's and that won't work with the Helix. They are rare... I'm just suggesting you take a 2nd look :)

What a great deal... looks like a wonderful case... I hope it works our well for everyone on the other side of the pond!

You are probably right. Have you already exhausted the parallel path on that DSP? If not... you could place the MONO return on that path, then merge it in with your stereo path. Do you have the Camera Adapter for iPad/iPhone? This allows you to connect your Helix to your iPad via USB.... and the Helix will become the audio interface for the iPad. If you connect your iPad to the Helix through USB then that is how you could monitor your iPad - which would free up those returns. The only downside here is that either your iPad OR your computer can connect to the Helix via USB.... not both. Another caveat is that controlling the volume of your iPad is removed from the iPad itself.... it must be done within the Helix such as "Global > USB IN 1/2 Trim". There may be other ways to do this... that's just the quick one I found when I tested with my old iPhone and Camera kit (which worked great by the way).

I would use a return before I would use an AUX for this purpose... then apply the EXP to the "mix control" on the return. That avoids the need for any splits/merge.... the EXP is only controlling a single BLEND rather than two VOLUMES. You will likely have to get a feel of the transition... but it should be very smooth. You should set the RETURN to instrument level in the global settings so the inputs are roughly matched. If you still have a volume mismatch... there is also a return level to work with on the return block.