rd2rk

Like this? Metallikid.hlx

If I understand what you want, try the attached preset. USB 7/8 is Clean. USB 1/2 is Distortion USB 3/4 is Amp USB 5/6 is full signal Cln_Dst_Amp_Full.hlx

It just occurred to me - are you using the Scarlett software to pan the channels L/R?

My ears are 70. If you use the SPDIF connection, there should be zero difference between the two. Truth be told, I can't tell the difference between SPDIF and XLR into my 18i20.

Not to mention blood, vomit and "other" bodily fluids. Bars are SO much fun!

I like it! Electrified chicken wire might work, too. Unless you're into mosh pit diving......

OK, that's weird! Time for a support ticket!

Don't know where you got that idea, but it's wrong. I have it running on my office laptop and my studio laptop. Don't know max allowed per license, but it's at least two.

Same as the first computer. I have it on two machines, works fine.

Rock On!

https://line6.com/software/index.html Search boxes: Helix/All Software/Windows 10 FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS: IMPORTANT! Carefully read and follow the update instructions below. If you don’t — and then run to the forums asking why it’s not working—the interwebs will make fun of you. Updating to 2.91 Helix Floor, Helix Rack, Helix LT, HX Effects, HX Stomp STEP 1 — Updating HX Edit to 2.90 (assuming you haven’t done this already) Log onto line6.com , download, and install HX Edit 2.90: macOS: https://line6.com/software/readeula.html?rid=9678 Windows 7/8/10: https://line6.com/software/readeula.html?rid=9677 STEP 2 — Updating Helix/HX Firmware to 2.91 If you have Helix Rack/Control, turn off Helix Control. Also, shut down all Line 6 software or any programs that use audio, like DAWs, iTunes, Spotify, video games, etc. Connect your Helix/HX device to a Mac or PC via USB (do not use any sort of USB hub, which may include the front USB ports on towers) and turn it on. Launch the new version of HX Edit 2.90 you installed in Step 1 above. If you’re not signed in, click “Check for Updates” in the lower right corner and sign in. If you’re already signed in, a dialog panel appears, indicating an update is available. Click “Update Now.” A window appears, asking you to back up your Helix / HX hardware. Click OK, optionally rename the backup and / or choose a different destination folder, and then click “Create Backup.” IMPORTANT! Note the location where you’ve saved the backup. Continue following the prompts. Once updated, the window reads “Update Complete” and your Helix / HX hardware begins rebuilding its presets; wait for this to complete and click “Back to HX Edit.” From the File pull-down menu, click “Restore from backup…” A dialog appears. Click “Restore Backup” and then “Yes.” Turn your Helix / HX product off and then on again. If you have Helix Control connected to Helix Rack, turn on Helix Control. Helix Rack reads “Helix Control must be updated to work properly.” Press Knob 6 (OK).

If it works like the HX Stomp, your cable will be on Path A and the wireless on Path B. If the first block is a stereo pan then you can easily control which one is active by setting up Your presets like the attached. Guitar is L/MONO, Bass is RIGHT. Bass.hlx Guitar.hlx

Did you try the Noise Gate in the Input Block?

Attached are two examples. Keep in mind that Helix numbers presets 0-127. If the Bloom numbers them 1-128 you'll probably need to increment the PC#s by 1. When Bloom2 loads, it sends OFF to the Boost. Boost Level is on EXP 1. I did these on a Helix Floor, but they should work on HX FX too. Let me know if they work for you. Bloom1.hlx Bloom2.hlx

After you've made changes, are you saving the preset?

If you provide some detail on what, exactly, you're trying to do, I can probably help.

There's another thread on here where the solution turned out to be that the OS hard drive needed to be Drive 0. Involved swapping drive cables to make it so IIRC.

Why get a Floor? Since you're concerned with size, we'll ignore 6 mono 2 stereo fx loops vs 4 and 2 on the Floor. You won't be needing all those loops for external pedals. You obviously don't need the L6 Link, Variax, MIC and XLR Outs. You will have to buy at least two Physical Exp pedals to match the Floor, and since you max out at 3, you're even up there. You'll also have to add the expense of those batteries. Oh, yeah, don't forget the pedal board, and something to carry it in. You'll have 3 Snapshots per Stomp which, with Command Center, would allow you some interesting possibilities via MIDI. Not sure the number of possible iterations, my math's not that good. I know it's more than I'd ever be able to keep track of. You'd have a near endless number of effects combinations too. Kind of like this: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/playing-through-the-worlds-largest-pedalboard/ Then there's the problem of latency. If each Stomp adds 3ms of latency, you're already at 9ms, close to the 10-12ms that typically starts to bother people, and definitely enough to affect "feel". Add a wireless (3ms) and some IEMs - maybe you don't need those now but....... I guess it all boils down to what do you REALLY need, now and down the road, and, are you REALLY saving money OR space? I know I won't be trading my Floor for 3 stomps.

On the subject of musical Ripley's Believe it or not, there's this: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/playing-through-the-worlds-largest-pedalboard/

Just a heads up addition to silverhead's post. The output from your amp to the LT has to be a Line Out as I mentioned. If you use the amp's Speaker out there's a good chance that all the magic smoke will escape from your Helix.

Gonna need a little more detail than that for specifics, but the standard way of getting a real amp into an AI to record into a DAW is either: The Amp has a Line Out, which would go into a return. If so, you won't be getting the benefit of the power amp or the speaker. Does the Line Out have a speaker sim? If you don't like it, can it be disabled? This is an awful way to do what you want. Use a Reactive Load Box. Take the Line Out from the RL Box to a Return. This gets you the Power amp, but a GOOD RL Box is not cheap, and you still need a speaker sim. MIC the Amp (old school). Unfortunately, the LT does not have a MIC Input, and while there are workarounds, that adds more expense. Plus the MIC will pick up ambient noise, and depending on the amp, the neighbors will probably call the cops. OR you could just use the Helix the way it was designed to be used. If you haven't tried it yest, you'll be surprised how good it sounds in a mix. However, LEARNING CURVE!

Are you saying you've done this, or wondering if anybody else has? My concerns would be: 1) Who can remember what combination of buttons does what? 2) Once you have the ES8 configured to switch the HXFX vis MIDI, and the HXFX to MIDI the Stomp, and the Stomp (when it gets Command Center in 3.0) to MIDI the Zoom, or vice versa, and all your external pedals configured, that's several MILLION possible configurations. See 1). 3) If you patch this "doll" into a high-gain amp, will you be able to hear the guitar through all the noise? 4) Good Luck troubleshooting! 5) By the time you get it all worked out you'll have forgotten how to play guitar! I'm sure I'm not the only one here who hopes you're going to share whatever it is you're smoking.................:-)

By "helix computer version", do you mean Native?

I'm guessing that you take your stage monitor/IEMs off the board? You could get a simple DI box to balance the signal, but keeping the cable run under 20' you should be OK. You should probably record the MIDI to preserve the Wah action and Snapshot changes if you need them in the re-amping.

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs set the 1/4" out to LINE and use a LINE input on the AI. If you're using an Instrument level input on the AI, set the 1/4" to INST.