CraigGT

Well it depends on the noise, this won't cure hum problems and increasing the return level like I said could theoretically increase noise but it does solve overloading and distortion issues. The Strymon level meter is in the 'test' menu which is accessed by powering on with the 'Tap' button held until 'Test' is displayed, turn the 'Type' knob until it says 'Level' and press the 'Type' knob, the signal is displayed as a bargraph on the display and will change to 'Clip' if it is too high, I think this may depend on firmware level so it may not be available on older Strymon firmwares. The only way I have found to exit 'Test' mode is to depower the unit. Let me know how you get on. Craig

I've been having trouble with the repeats on my Strymon Timeline sounding crunchy, at first I thought it was to do with the Helix summing the repeats back to mono because the dry signal was fine but that turned out not to be the case. With help from Matt at Strymon I used a signal level meter hidden inside the pedals to find the problem. I had my FX loops set to "Line" (+4dB), Strymon quote a max input of +8dB so there should be no problem but the Timeline indicated clipping as soon as I touched the guitar. I then changed the FX loop to "Instrument" (-10dB) and it was still clipping. The bottom line is that if your FX loop is before the amp model (as it would probably be for a Mobius) then it will be fine but if the loop is after the amp (as it would typically be for delays) then the Helix signal is too hot. The solution is to adjust the "Send" level of your FX loop down to -6dB and boost the "Return" level up to +6dB, this still gives a unity gain FX loop but gives the pedals plenty of headroom to do their stuff properly. I'm guessing that the dry path in the pedals has more headroom so that's why only the repeats were sounding crunchy. I would have thought that this might affect other external pedals too. Craig

I think we need to take a step back, are you just wanting to change the program on the H9 when you change patch on the Helix? Craig

Seeing as IRs are wav files it should be possible to store a description in a tag then the editor could show that on a mouse hover. Craig

Thanks for the compliments guys, here's a pic of the full board. Craig

Some of us make up for our playing abilities by buying toys 😠Craig

You need to go into the Command Centre and set up an Instant Message with a Program Change. Have a look at that and shout back if you need any more information. Craig

Well this is the important bit Rysie, the rest is just a fused IEC inlet and an output socket. https://www.rapidonline.com/vigortronix-vtx-214-010-109-10w-ac-dc-power-supply-single-output-9v-84-2195 Craig

Thanks, that comes from a lifetime working in telecoms :-)

The black box behind the BigSky is a little gadget I put together last night (planning it took a bit longer). Mains comes in the back, there's a mains outlet on the left which goes out to power the Helix and it also supplies over 1 amp of 9 volt dc to power the two Strymons. So it only takes a single mains lead now as opposed to a mains lead and two wall warts! I'm quite pleased with that. Craig

Yes I'd agree, we could call it IIAASIAS mode (If It Ain't A Snap It's A Stomp) :-) Craig

I'd like to see the Snap/Stomp options being made per preset. Craig

There's a sample pack of three different cabs for $3 which is worth a try. I really like the mv30, atype and alnico ones, I wasn't too keen on the old one, I can't remember what that was called. Craig

If anybody is interested in the Live Ready Sound IR packs then there's a 40% discount code "DAI" on Facebook. Craig

Here you go https://www.dropbox.com/s/p9dnmevtc9myjl7/FACTORY%201.hls?dl=0 I've not tried them myself but credit goes to Kai Down for the original post. Craig

Someone just posted a backup of the new factory1 set list in the Facebook group so I do believe there are new ones, we all just overwrote them restoring our full backups. Craig

Alternatively, get an old usb cable and nibble away at the sleeving until you can see the wires and cut the screen if there is one and the black wire. Helix should only need the two data wires. I went through all of this with a HD500X that wouldn't stay connected. Craig

There is a possibility of a ground loop. Try the trick of putting a tiny piece of tape over the ground pin of your usb cable at the computer end. It's the left hand pin when you look into the plug with the pins facing up. Craig

I make my own with Van Damme cable and Neutrik plugs but be wary of Neutrik fakes if you are going down that route. Craig

Pads are (or should be) purely attenuators, It shouldn't affect any frequencies but if your input is clipping then you should turn it on. Craig

On looking at the manual again it seems that there's a dedicated cc #93 for tap tempo! Craig

I went with keeping the feet in place but using long screws through the board and foot to secure it. They're M2.5 if I remember correctly. Craig

Did you know that if you assign a midi CC message of CC81 value 127 to your tap tempo footswitch (footswitch 12) then the Timeline will keep the same tempo? I know you can use midi clock but that just seems to overrule any delay times in the Timeline all the time. Craig PS the Stymon manual states a value of 0 for switch down but that seems to keep engaging the looper.

Alto make some stereo wireless units designed to take the signals from the desk to active pa cabs, maybe you could make use of one of those between the Helix and the desk. Craig

When you touch a footswitch to assign it's bypass, select customise to label the scribble strip. Craig