PierM

Always give priority to the workstation goal before the windows update. Common rule for DAWs or graphics workstations is to hold system updates, unless it's really necessary. Never let Windows to just auto update overnight.

I guess the problem isnt to add a reverb iR algo/block (I mean, the glorious lexicon L480 memory dump was just less than 60 seconds total of samples, and Helix has that sample memory available for the looper), but the fact Helix wouldnt have enough ROM to store that stuff. On paper, in 2022, a reverb convolver/algo is extremely cheap to do, but you need to design that stuff before to ship the units to the world..:P

It wouldnt tell you anything useful, since each mixer has its own input levels, preamps, gain stages and track levels (and FOH guy), so it could show clipping even if your Helix is delivering a perfectly fine signal. Set your presets to avoid clipping at helix level (you can check clipping on the output block). At that point it's up to the FOH guy.

If it's flashing green isnt fully charged. Just leave it alone until it's solid green. First charge can be long. if it's an old model, not the new GT10II, then could be it has the last firmware, that screw up the battery charge, and there is nothing you can do.

Seems a calibration issue. Helix should autocalibrate the pedals at the boot, but try unplugging the pedal, set it to 0% (heel position), then plug it again and do couple of heel/toe sweeps. Also, check within a fresh preset if everything is working as it should. Like add a generic volume block, and see if the EXP pedal is doing its job 0/100%. If it's working as expected, then maybe it's time to redo the wah min/max assingment, as it might be the old Helix was on a wrong calibration.

I do the same thing between my Stomp and Empress Zoia, using the command center, and sending a Bank/Prog message at each preset load. This will link each Stomp preset to a specific patch in the Zoia, without being forced to respect the sorting in the preset list. Bank/Prog Knob Parameter Description 2 MIDI Ch Sets the Bank/Program message's MIDI channel (1-16). When set to "Base", Helix follows the Global MIDI channel, which is set from the "Global Settings > MIDI/Tempo" page. 3 Bank CC00 Sets the CC#00 (Bank MSB) value. Select "Off" if the receiving device shouldn't respond to Bank MSB. 4 Bank CC32 Sets the CC#32 (Bank LSB) value. Select "Off" if the receiving device shouldn't respond to Bank LSB. 5 Program Sets the Program Change (PC) value. Select "Off" if you only want to send a Bank MSB and/or Bank LSB message.

The G10TII transmitter took over the legacy G10T, which was the transmitter with some overheating problems. The receivers/chargerg base, G10 and G10S, didn't changed since the original production. The infamous firmware was affecting only the old transmitter, G10T, so doesn't relate to your model TII. The 2.05 update (for the GTII), does also require the base to be updated to 1.05. You don't have to update if you don't want to. If you are fine with the way your Relay works, just ignore it. If aint broken, don't fix it. :)

Some say, next L6 guitar processor generation will be code named LazyX.

Europe. Last time I looked at the FM9, was listed at 2499€. I guess it depends on the EUR/USD exchange, but yeah...never seen a FM9 priced as the helix. Not even close. ;) EDIT: I see this is called "FM9 Turbo", so maybe it cost more than the original version, dunno. Anyway, this is the only model you can pre-order over EU.

Does also cost twice the helix. I wouldnt call this a "selling point". You are just paying for those extra cores.

You are safe as the battery will last like a cat in the highway...

HOLY COW! A "fractal vs helix" and "when they release new firmware" in a single thread. Well, this is gonna break the forum! lol!

Yes it is digital. I see the EMG 707 has a strum output peak voltage around 4.5V, which is very hot. The Duncan Blackouts should sits around 3V, but still very hot for any wireless system without a sensivity control.

Well, it's mechanical stuff, so soon or later they are all gonna die. Every switch in the world has a lifespan measured in cycles (clicks). The average lifespan of those tactile switch is declared to be 100,000 Cycles, which means it will start glitching as you get closer to this number. Of course it also depends how the unit it's being used (and abused) and exposed to contamination (dust, heat, humidity, water etc etc). If you are an heavy stomper and a touring musician, I'd say let's cut this number in half. :) Usually, when happens to me (not only with Helix but with everything using those tactile switches), I start cleaning them, then if problem come back means it's time to swap them with new parts. (If you're not sure how to do the job, better to have L6 doing that, or any other expert that does know what he's doing). The way you describe it, looks like it could just be a temporary glitch...maybe some extra dust particles, or a bit of oxidation. Just wait and see what happens. If it will come back soon, means it's time to clean them all (and see what happens next).

What's the problem exactly? I do have W11 in both laptop and main DAW, and I have no problems with Helix software and drivers. Am I missing something? :)

The FS on the Helix (all of them) are NOT real FS, but just mechanical assembly that are pressing against micro tactile switches, so spraying stuff from the outside, is doing nothing other than creating a dust trap. If you want to properly clean (and check) those tactile switch, you need to open the unit and proceed as you see here (AT YOUR OWN RISK TO DAMAGE THE UNIT);

This is weird, as those G50 are working with in/out parity (so there is no gain in the middle), with transmitters capable to receive a 6V peak from the incoming signal. I don't know the specs of the 707, but I doubt they are pushing over that. Have you tried with no cable management simulation, and using different channels?

Are the stock presets sounding properly? Have you tried modifying one of those preset amp blocks? If the original presets are working fine, then you are probably doing something wrong indeed. :)

You seems acting a bit denial now. We explained to you that EMIs and Ground Loops aren't something you can control and design into a device, especially that small. EMIs especially, are an ENVIRONMENT factor, that it has variables that aren't depending from the HX Stomp alone, or whatever audio interface or pedal you are using. It's a cross contamination between emitters of electromagnetism in a closed or small environment. Please don't let us going into details about the inductive, radiative, conductive and capacitive coupling loops. It's pointless for you, it's boring and wont solve your issues. These are things that happens all the time, no matter the brand or the product. Just google randomly "kemper ground loop noise", or "Fractal ground loop noise", or "AxeFX insane noise from PC". You'll find dozens of similar experiences, in any sound/audio compartment. You still have to find your way. Keep trying, moving your PC in a different location, raising the distance between stomp and PC, changing angles between your guitar and PC, in relation with monitors, or in relationship with the stomp. Try different sockets and guitar cables... Try different shoes. I mean, it's like that man. EMIs are a lollipop to break down. I know sounds annoying when other users tell you they don't have anything like you are having, but yeah... you need to deal with it. It just means isn't about HX Stomp, but about the environment and all the electrical elements inside and outside it. That's it. :)

I think you are right about V30. Funny is, that info is coming from a Hetfield interview. Probably a bit of brain fog . :)

ROffset does affect (offset) the amount of dBs needed to attack and release the swell. It helps A LOT to quick shape the swell for different guitars with different output, as well to shape the swell for slow or fast playing. I'm using it A LOT, and as soon as you know how it works it's very efficient. In this video, apart the first glitches to create the loop, I'm using it almost all the time.

Same happened to me, with my main JTV-59 battery. And this happened since first use, so I guess was an old battery, probably left without juice for years, sitting in its box. I don't think you can do anything to it.

Register your G10 then open a Support Ticket https://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html

For Kill'em All James Hetfield used a modded Marshall '59 SLP coupled with a Marshall 1960B 4x12 cab (sporting 4 Celestion Vintage 30). The only pedal was a first gen Rat, but most of that tone was coming from that cranked Marshal. As said above, mids were on the high zone. They started scooping mids later, and killing them all (pun intended) in Master of Puppets with the classic Metallica "V shaped" EQ.