PierM

The Helix LCD display, as any other similar display, isnt sealed and if you spill a liquid over it, there is nothing preventing a leak between the matrix and the screen surface. The bright you see is the water/humid trapped there, or it's already permanently damaged. Imho the best option is to leave the unit closed in a very small room (windows/doors closed), with a dehumidifier. This is the only device that can safely suck out all the humidity from the environment, and from your Helix. You probably have something similar to that;

Did you flash BOTH receiver and transmitter with latest firmware? Be sure you did. :)

This is why I always suggest my friends to develop some solid experience with real pedals and real amps, before jumping into modeling...If you know those basics, you dont need to know what those Helix params are for, since they are just doing what they are doing in the real counterpart. Anyway, this unofficial guide is a nice place to start. You can find good info on models, and sometimes you also get access to original manuals of those pedals and amps. https://helixhelp.com

I have to be honest, never been a fan of these systems, but with this one Fender (and Ed O' Brien) nailed it! Very easy to setup and balance for your own needs, and it just sounds amazing. I'm a loooong time Ebow user, so this one for me it's like a sort of polyphonic Ebow. Great neck and finish, just a lovely instrument... The only downside for me was the extremely quick battery drain (especially with my own sustainer settings), but I solved installing a Fishman battery back on the back (see the pic), which gives you a stable 9V for a week average, and then starts flashing red just few hours before running out of juice. With a standard 9V alcaline battery, you'd get the proper tone just the first hours of playing, then everything starts sounding weeker and weeker, until the battery is gone, in a matter of few days. With this mod, you just get a stable tone, as it should, for the entire battery charge.

With this thing, I do have all the sustain I need (sustainer driven by a SD JB Jr). Also modded with a fishman battery pack, so the battery drain isnt a problem anymore. I know, not a valid answer, Im just showing off. :D

I would start isolating the problem; -Is it happening with all presets, even stock? -Is it happening with all output, even Headphones? -Is it happening with any guitar? If all are yes, then Id try with a full backup of your stuff and then a Global Reset, pressing C+D while booting the unit. Usually this is solving these kind of things... If this isnt happening in certain conditions, then I'd investigate from there.

That Clarity Stereo is a proper tool to measure. ;)

Any metering happening outside the Helix via DAW, isnt telling you much about the real Helix "loudness", since your signal is passing through an audio interface preamps, gain stages, software leveling etc...Even if yor are going full digital, you'd want to know what's the measure you are doing; waveform peak, quasi peak, RMS, true RMS, Loudness, Perceived Loudness etc etc... It can be a huge delta. Said all that, if your Helix isnt clipping red within its own Output meters, your Helix signal isnt clipping.

I would keep the Mesa if possible, and as soon as you are happy (and IF) with the HX Stomp, you can drop the Amp. Saying that because we can all tell you all great things about the HX Stomp, but the only guy who can decide if it's good or not, is you. Also jumping from real amps to modeling usually needs some transition. As if the stomp alone can be enough, again depends on you and your needs. For a bluesman that is used to guitar to overdrive to amp, is more than enough. For a pedal addicted, which wants 2 lines of stereo delays, reverb, dual amp/cab and stuff....no, not really enough. 100% Imho. :)

Yes, all new stocks of G10 are with the TII, and it's usually specified in the product AD specs. Previous version is gone. Battery life is still around 6.5hrs after a month, so I believe this is the max possible duration for my environment (there it can be a slight difference between cold and warm environments).

Line6 is pretty damn good avoiding oversaturated markets. They always nailed it. Now market is really oversatured of "helix'ed" devices (we all have to be honest, after the helix floor success, everyone tried to copy the concept, for the worse or for the better, doesn't matter), so imho they won't be doing a Helix 2, but just inventing something "new", and moving from there.

Hi, that is just my own configuration, colors and everything. To do your own (change golors, change CCs, add/remove more buttons and knobs etc..), you need to learn basics on how Midi Designer Pro works. I suggest you to give a read to the basics, it's pretty easy to edit, and from there, personalize your controllers. https://mididesigner.com/wiki/doku.php/manual:10_intro

I'm pretty sure you have a PC monitor using an HDMI connection. Am I right? If I am, than that's your enemy. That HDMI connection. If you can use a different video connection, like DVI, or Miniport, GO for it! Good luck!

Didn't know they added a metronome!

It's clear you have a problem with that unit. Open a support ticket and see what they say. Never had a noise issue with my G10, and I had a lot of them (3 G10 old serie, and a new G10TII). Battery drain was an issue, but sound wise, they all sounded great.

If it's set to FRFR it will work fine. Dont expect the same quality as a good stage monitor. Powercabs can be really boomy with busy signals, but your setup (acoustic + 2 voices) doesnt seem to complex, so it should be acceptable.

It's a year that I'm using a cheap Amazon Basic SPDIF cable, and just works flawless. Looks pretty much like the one @spaceatl just posted https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01D5H8VR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for receiving audio from Helix, through SPID cable, remember to set the Scarlett Sync to "spdif" instead of "internal" or it won't work)

Pretty hard to get same signal from Helix HP and Scarlett HP. You'd need both preamp and impedance matching. I do have a similar setup, with a 6i6, and despite the headphone I use, I do always get a different HP experience. I do have an AKG K141 MKII 55 Ohm, BD 770 Pro 80 Ohm and BD770 Pro 250 Ohm. Oddly enough, the last (220Ohm), it's the headphone that gives me the best "match" between Helix and Scarlett, but the cons is it can be perceived as a low volume for many.

Check in the global settings, that both input and output are set to instrument level. Also you can dial with the impedance setting (Z) in the main input block, to see if you find a better balance, instead of using Auto-Z (that usually works fine with guitars). Just FYI, even without blocks, and unless you have the HX stomp in true bypass mode, there'll always be an A/D/A conversion (DSP is still working). Shouldn't affect the signal in a bad way, but yeah...it's happening.

You need no signal at all to make the G10T switching to standby. Even with volume up, but with no play at all, if you have a noisy/hissy background (because a noisy pickup or hi gain) it can keep running until battery drains. So, I wouldnt really worry about it.

Be sure to flash both trasmitter and receiver. After the firmware, if keeps flashing red, just leave it alone. It should start flashing green after a while. My old G10 with the damn firmware, did the same.

The "hiss" should not be the noise gate (quite the opposite), since this is NOT adding anything to the signal; at the opposite it's fading IN and OUT the signal when its amplitude it's under the threshold. The Noise Gate is commonly used to suppress unwanted noise that is audible when the audio signal is at a low level, so I guess you "feel" like there is no hiss when gate it's turned off, because the signal is not being cut and faded. I never liked the Noise Gates, in any situation, but I dont use high gain so my signal is pretty clean from the start.

Do you have a noise gate somewhere in the chain and/or in the main input settings?

If you are in Europe, Im selling my Infinity Looper, plus controller. That's like 4 hours of recording, or more (depends on the sdcard) ;)

Helix isn't a USB Host, so it can't be done.