cbrillow

I enjoy helping where I can. Please report back and let us know if that works for you!

Ok, here's what I did: I turned on the XT Live and called up preset 5C. Then I stepped through each of the parameter screens -- there are 18 -- and took pictures of them with my phone. I trimmed 'em up and put them into a document file, which I wrote as a PDF. You can access the PDF, or all the individual screen pictures at the following Google Drive link. Once you're there, you will be able to download anything in that folder. If you select all the photos, it will put them into a zip file for you. The pictures should be in the order that they appear on your XT Live display. (In the PDF, I made sure that they are...) The individual file name will have a 2-digit number just before the .jpg extension. That indicates the XT Live screen. IMG_20180112nnnnn 01.jpg would be first, for example, then IMG_20180112nnnnn 02.jpg, etc. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qUPVfg-uRtqFYorFndEFpB22QcqHcG3c?usp=sharing Hope it works out for you. Good luck!

I'll plug it in and have a look at it later today. (assuming that it still works...) Just to confirm -- 5C is 'Day Tripper' -- is that correct? EDIT: Hmmmmm... mine is showing "Plush" as the 5C preset name. Maybe Day Tripper is for the older XT, not the XT Live? Will keep investigating...

Please tell us a little more. Did you buy it new or used? (still covered by a warranty?) What firmware version are you running? Did this happen suddenly after it had been working ok? Unfortunately, your story is a familiar one -- there are many others exactly like it here on the forum. It happened to me. Ultimately, I had to send my 150 to the factory to have it taken care-of. I would recommend calling Line 6 tech support. They can walk you through some things to try after they are familiar with things you've already attempted. And they will help you determine what needs to be done to get you going again, if it can't be resolved over the phone. I will say that, given my experience -- even though it worked out ok in the end -- and from what I've read from others in this forum, I would not invest in this l particular product line again. This seems to happen with uncomfortable regularity with the AmpliFi series.

I buy guitars to play, not for their value as collectibles. Like Sllverhead, I have an early 70s Les Paul Deluxe that sits in its case. And a mid-70s Tele that sits in its case. And a '96 Strat Plus Deluxe that sits in its case. The Strat was my main axe from the time I got it until the day I bought my original Variax -- now referred to as the '500' -- when they first hit the market. The 500 took over the role and has remained #1 until the middle of last year, when I finally started favoring the JTV-59 that I bought several years ago, but never really 'took-to' until somewhat recently. So what's the value of my Variax 500 relative to the Strat, Tele or LP? Don't know, but there's no mystery which is the least valuable, by a wide margin. And I don't care. The Variax allowed me to play a wide range of different, fun sounds that made people smile, for a long time -- and that's what it's all about. Still have it, still works, still play it. It's obsolete. Who cares? :) With technology, waiting until it's optimally-priced to buy something, often means not buying it at all. Glad I spent nearly $1000 on the old 500...

Have you edited and saved any other patches that would be messed up if you did a reset to the defaults? If you just want to know what all the settings are for that preset, maybe I can look in my XT Live and tell you what they are, and you can dial everything in by hand and save it.

It might also be helpful if you mention whether you're using the iOS or Android version of the app. They have essentially the same functionality, but there are some subtle interface difference between the two. Completely useless? Nope - there's a bit of stumbling-around time when you first start out, but it's a pretty cool device.

It would appear that the O.P. is asking if the tuning reference can be changed, as can be done on some electronic tuners. Standard is: A = 440Hz. I doubt that this facility is made available for users of the Amplifi series, but don't know for certain.

Nope. It's more like 'Welcome to the club!' I didn't immediately fall in love with my JTV-59 when I bought it. My trusty 500 felt more comfortable, despite the JTV's purported superiority as an instrument. At that particular time, my cruddy little trio wasn't active, so I didn't play either guitar all that much. So the JTV mostly stayed in the case, for months at a time. And when I did play it, I usually connected to a Pod XT Live with the VDI supplying power to it. The bottom line is, I didn't use the guitar in such a manner that promotes long and healthy battery life. And it bit me, too. I started having a problem with the XT Live/VDI connection, where my 500 would be ok for a while, then it would start to cut in and out the way it does when the batteries are dying. I couldn't trace it to the XT Live, the VDI cable or the 500, because just about anything I tried cause the problem to go away temporarily. So I started playing the JTV, figuring I should get used to it. The battery seemed ok at first, with the 4 LEDs indicating a full charge. I didn't attempt to estimate usage, but it seemed to run down more quickly than I anticipated it would. Then, I started paying attention, and tried a couple of things. I paid attention to the charging process. It seems ok. Remains blinking as long as it's in the charger -- I thought that there was supposed to be a 'Full' indication - maybe the LED being on all the time? I put it in the JTV and all 4 LEDs light, indicating a full charge. But it doesn't keep much of a charge over the course of a few days, even if it's not played much or have a cable connected. I even turn the volume control down, although that shouldn't make much difference if there's no plug in the jack. The last time I charged it, I didn't put it in the JTV. I just left it out and monitored the voltage. It measure 8.35 volts and remained rock-steady for at least 3 weeks out of the guitar. I put it in one day, was careful about not leaving a plug in the jack, and turned the volume down when I wasn't playing it. Without much playing time on it, it was flat in 2 or 3 days. Clearly, the battery life is degraded, despite it not having that many 'hours' on it, and I could use a replacement. I'm using a Relay G10 wireless these days, so I can't power it from the VDI or an XPS footswitch. Gotta have the battery! Ironically, I've come up with a GREAT, long-lasting rechargeable battery solution for my 500 & 600, but it won't work with the JTV. Sigh...

Interesting. I have the older version of Sonic Port, and runs it on my 3rd generation iPad with iOS 9.3.5. Actually, since going to Amplifi devices, I don't use the darned thing at all anymore. Not pleased that it's limited to use with iOS devices, but I knew that upfront and it worked ok for what it was intended to do. Had no idea that the newer VX version was also (at least theoretically) compatible with Windows PCs! That would make it a much more versatile tool to have. A long-shot might be to try the other version of the iOS Sonic Port app, which does run on iOS 9, with your VX. May not work, but I know I'd try it if I were in your position. Good luck!

(Wrote this yesterday, but it wouldn't post for some reason. Probably more than you want to know, but I'll throw it out there, anyway...) Ordered my first Variax -- now called the Variax 500 -- before they were released to the market. I also have a barely-played Variax 600 and a JTV-59, which is my 'main' guitar these days. I actually prefer the feel of the less-expensive 500, and even -- for the most part -- the sound of its lower-tech, non-HD models, over those of the JTV. These days, I play the JTV most often because of its mag pickups. For the first several years I had it, I continued to go to the 500, leaving the JTV in the case most ot the time. The 500 and my PodXT Live were constantly connected to one another for many years via VDI, but that started to become unreliable -- subject for a different post -- and I've also begun to use Amplifi devices which lack VDI functionality. That means having to deal with batteries. I'm tired of feeding AA batts to it, and use a Relay G10 wireless, so I can't use an XPS footswitch/power supply. The battery for my JTV isn't worth a plug-nickel, so I use the mag pickups for practicing so as not to be frustrated with the batteries going flat on me. When I want to use modeling, I bite the bullet and switch over to battery power. Commenting on your post a little, my experience with these suggests that you're not likely to see what you hope for. The progression seems to be the development of new guitars as the hardware capability increases. There may be some subtle changes to the hardware in currently-supported Variax models, but, to my knowledge, these changes are limited to those that have yet to leave the factory. Psarkissian may chime in to correct what I get wrong, but I don't know of any hardware upgrades being made available to owners of older, out-of-production models, and certainly none that are entrusted to end-users to perform. I imagine that a newer circuit revision is occasionally put into an older Variax that has been returned for repair/service, and the original hardware version is no longer available, but I highly doubt that this is what you're hoping to see. Anyway, enjoy your JTV -- happy to see that you're such an enthused new user!

I own three Amplifi devices: the 30, FX-100, and the 150. There are certain things I like and dislike about the series. IMO, the lack of a line out on the 30, 75 and 150 is a serious omission. I don't yet have a lot of experience with any of the three. I use the 30 for everyday practice at home. and have gigged twice with the FX100. I recently bought the 150 used, to give me enough power to play in band practice, but I'm only a substitute guitar player with the band I do sound for, and my opportunities to play with them are very limited. All of my Amplifi devices are running the latest firmware version, 2.6.0. One of the earlier versions was said to have smoothed out the bluetooth connection issues that may have been responsible for the problems that you experienced. That stated, I cannot in good conscience, boldly state that everything is working flawlessly. I use both the iOS and Android versions of the Amplifi Remote app, and they seem to work equally well for me. They occasionally lose the connection, but I think it's more pilot error than anything else. (still don't have that much experience with them...) It seems that, once everything is connected and all the tones have been synced/loaded, it is very stable. I often practice along with rehearsal recordings streamed from my phone via bluetooth. This works very well and I experience no dropouts or connection problems doing this. Or I may walk away for an hour or so and leave everything on. Still works when I get back. I am now VERY LEERY of one aspect of these devices, based upon my own experience and the frequent appearance of other reports of the same issue here in the forum, and elsewhere: failed firmware updates that brick the amplifier. I bought my 150 used, and it arrived with the penultimate firmware version. I tried repeatedly to update it via Line 6's recommended procedure, and it failed repeatedly. Eventually, I attempted to do it while talking on the phone, with Line 6 tech support talking me through it and monitoring my results. In each instance, I followed the written or verbal instructions with care and precision. I tried the procedure with 3 different computers, all of which are fully updated, patched and in excellent working order. By the time I'd gone this far, it was too late to try bluetooth, which may have been a better choice, despite the fact that it takes much more time to do it this way than it does via USB and the Line 6 Updater program. Eventually, the tech agreed that there must be something 'wrong' with my 150, and I had to return it, at my expense, to the factory for repair. Cost me over $110 for shipping. I am grateful that they agreed to correct the problem at no additional cost, but this expense sure reduced my joy at having gotten a good price on a used unit... I wasn't too pleased when the amp was returned to me without explanation of what was done to fix it -- I had to ask. I was told that they didn't find anything wrong, that they simply did a factory reset and updated the firmware. In other words, they did what I tried repeatedly to do with the expert guidance of a tech support agent. (I didn't mention it earlier, but, yes - I did try the factory reset procedure, too...) Not boasting, but stating for credibility purposes, that I am very knowledgeable and experienced with computers and hardware. This was not something that resulted in my doing something wrong or having marginal gear. This seems to happen to a lot of users. There's more to this story that I don't know, and, if you search the forum, you'll see other stories much like mine. Honestly, I would probably not buy one of these again, despite the things that I do like about the series. If they ever come out with another firmware update, I'll think long and hard before attempting to perform it...

Thank you, Juan, for your comments. It's not entirely clear whether your solution is a good thing to try, but I'm happy that it seems to work for you. Good luck!

1) There have been a lot of calls for a Windows version of the Amplifi Remote app, but no reason given to believe that one will ever materialize. I'm certainly not holding my breath. Considering the 'maturity' of the Amplifi series, and the recent deep discount on the Amplifi 75. it looks more like a product line that's on the way out, than one still in active development. 2) I have no experience with iOS emulators. Another possible option might be to try an Android emulator or maybe the Chrome OS. Again, no experience, but open to the possibility...

Thanks for the explanation and additional imagery. It does clear things up for me, to the extent that I can understand the difference between rolled edges and a scalloped fingerboard. As a traditionalist -- make that old guy -- can't say that I like the appearance. Could be that I liked how it feels, if I were to try to play one, though... Ya never know! :)

Rolled edge? IMO, these images appear to depict a lightly-scalloped fingerboard. It's difficult to see if there's a radius that would be what I consider a 'rolled' edge. Not being argumentative, just the way I see it... To be honest, I haven't before heard the term, but it seems like some radiusing would be common to relieve the sharp break over the top of the fingerboard. My (Korean) JTV59 has a bit of relief, and I never gave it a second thought. Seems like most of my guitars do. Now I'll have to go look at 'em!

Good deal. It's always nice when users close-the-loop by reporting on how they've resolved their issues....

Typically, symbols on the desktop represent shortcuts to installed programs, folders that contain program shortcuts, or web links. The one you've mentioned is probably a shortcut to the Gearbox program -- have you installed it on your Windows 10 machine?

Thanks for posting this and the video. May help somebody, someday. Maybe even me! :)

Confirming that the stereo effect on the Amplifi 150 pretty much matches what I heard in the 30. In other words, it's far less prominent than what is heard through headphones, and sounds mostly dead-center. Not exactly what I'd consider ping - pong...

Good luck -- hope you have a smooth experience, especially if you have to do a firmware upgrade on your amplifi. (Maybe a brand-new one will have the most recent firmware!)

You're welcome - I enjoy helping where I can. With respect to the FBV3, I'd recommend looking through the forum and on the product specs pages for specific information. As I mentioned, I have the older FBV Shortboard MKII. My understanding is that the configuration and capabilities of the two are very much alike, if not identical. (You might also search YouTube for a video on the FBV3 floorboard -- bet somebody shows one in use...) There is one complaint I've read about the use of Amplifi with the FBV3: It features lighted color rings that encircle the footswitches. When used with newer Line 6 devices, the color can be different, depending on the function of the switch. My understanding is that they only light up red when used with the Amplifi. This 'may be' a function of the Amplifi firmware, and 'may be' addressed at some point, but it's only speculation. Could be that this never changes, which makes it pretty much the same as the floorboard controller I use, which has a simple LED that indicates which switches are closed. In either case, there's no 'mapping' as you called it, to be done. You rely on the remote app to modify or create tone presets, which are stored in the 25 4-position banks of the Amplifi. When the floorboard is connected, you simply select the bank and postilion within the bank -- A,B,C or D -- that you want to work with. There are switches for all the effects in that preset and you simply toggle them on or off as you choose. One thing you DO NOT WANT -- the FBV Mk II Express. It only has 4 switches (to select a preset/tone) and the volume pedal. This is very limiting (Actually, I would say pretty much useless!) when used with Amplifi. You can certainly incorporate a looper, but not in the signal flow that you've laid out. The floorboard controller connects with Amplifi via a CAT 5 cable. Your guitar signal would go through the looper first, and then into the Amplifi guitar input. You may be able to come up with a creative signal path that is more flexible than this, depending upon your looper, a signal splitter/A-B switches and another amp, but the simplest setup will limit you to playing your live riffs with the same tone that's being looped. This is beyond the scope of what I've done, but I've only just begun to experiment with a looper, myself. I know I could come up with a way to have a clean rhythm loop and a dirty solo tone, but it would involve extra steps and gear.

Nice to see they're using DC supplies more these days. I used to have a battery-powered rig that I'd use when we played in the park. I used a Fender Amp Can that I modified to send 12VDC battery voltage out to a small 110Vac inverter that powered the wall wart for my Pod XT Live. What a hack job that was! All because they wanted low-voltage AC for the older devices like the Pods... Sheesh! :rolleyes:

I have, due to some unusual circumstances this past year, become the owner of an Amplifi 30, Amplifi 150 and Amplifi FX-100. Given my experience with all 3 and a particular limitation of the functionality of the FX100 as a pedal board, I would recommend selecting one of the Amplifi amps and a floorboard controller, rather than the FX100. Both the 30 and the 150 are suitable for my 'home' use -- practicing/playing along with music streamed from my mobile devices. If I didn't occasionally practice & play with a full band, I could be totally satisfied with the 30. In a bedroom scenario, it sounds astonishingly good streaming audio and amplifying my guitar signal. And way more power than is needed in that situation. It's amazingly loud for such a little box. I use the 150 when I need something with more power. (which is rare...) In my opinion, a better option would be to pair one of the amps -- 30, 75 or 150 -- with a Line 6 foot controller. I bought a used FBV Shortboard MKII to use with mine. The newer (and costlier) FBV3 is also compatible. The advantage is that these controllers have additional switches that permit turning on and off the individual effects within a tone preset, as well as being able to change banks and select a given preset within the selected bank. The FX100 only has 4 switches for selecting one of the presets in a given bank. To change banks, you have to simultaneously step on TWO switches, to either increment or decrement the bank number. That can be awkward when you're in a live performance setting. In addition, the FX100 only has a two digit LED display that shows the currently-selected bank number, The foot controllers have an alphanumeric display that shows Bank #, Tone A, B, C or D, and an abbreviated name of the preset. There are separate switches for moving up and down through the banks -- much easier than stepping on two switches at the same time. In this scenario, you would stream your bluetooth audio through the Amplifi device from the remote app. Feel free to ask for clarification or additional questions that I may be able to help with.

As you've no doubt seen here in the forum, they can be frustrating beasts. We feel your pain. Good luck with whatever you choose to replace it with!