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Found 18 results

  1. lcuani

    Default values for impedance

    Hi all. I've been really searching for a list of the input impedances of the effects in the helix. I believe there is one in somewhere. Just want to know if any of you have a list of the values of the input impedance for each effect when helix is set to auto. Thanks in advance
  2. simmerswitch_

    Help me replicate the 'Alpha Haunt' pedal

    I've fallen in love with the 'Alpha Haunt' by Old Blood Noise Endeavours. But it's quite expensive after international shipping and the currency change. I want to try replicating it in the Helix, but I'm pretty new to Fuzz tones (mostly been an OD guy) and haven't done a good job so far. Who can help me get a preset together that works like the Alpha Haunt? PEDAL DEMO .
  3. Very sorry for the long post, but I truly feel it's necessary... Some might already know me from The Gear Page and it's been pointed out that maybe I should post this here in order to have a bigger impact, I'd reach more people really invested in making Helix better. Recently a couple of threads about Fuzz and Input Impedance came up, it seems a good time to push this idea forward and greatly improve our experience while playing w/ Helix. I'm a big fuzz fan. When I started getting heavy into dial in my tones, I found this problem... I dialed my Plexi tone, sounded great, then I added a fuzz face model in front of it, again it sounded great, but when I turned it off, the tone of the amp alone was gone, it sounded muffled. After asking around and some research I found that the culprit was the input impedance, more specifically, the auto setting. Input impedance influences tone and feel, it has to do with the interaction of you guitar signal and the first thing it hits on your pedalboard. To make a pedal behave on a modeler like its "real" counterpart, units use analog circuits to mimic the different input impedances you'd find in a regular pedalboard or amp. For example, usually amps have an input impedance of 1M, but if you put a fuzz in front of it, they usually have an input impedance around 10k, and that's what the guitar will see. A lot of people get confused and say that "well, if you bypass the fuzz, the input impedance is the same", but that's not exactly right. We have basically true bypass and buffered bypass, true bypass acts like there's nothing really there, signal goes straight through; buffered bypass makes the signal go through a buffer, and a buffer itself is actually an amp, and in this case the input impedance will be whatever the input bypass of the buffer is. We will ignore the buffered one. A buffer serves the sole purpose of avoiding signal degradation caused by long running cables - and it doesn't come without its own short comings, anyone that has triad a fuzz face after a buffer knows it - but because inside a modeler it doesn't happen, we can think Helix as a kind of paradise where there's no place for Bob Bradshaw, LA Sound Design, Gig Rig, Pete Cornish and a bunch of other companies, whose sole purpose is to make sure your guitar still sounds like your guitar after going through a metric ton of cables and gear. We'll assume everything is true bypass, because, as we don't have to worry about signal loss through cables, that's the best option, no question about it. Back to input impedance. Everything being true bypass, that means it's going straight through, so the input impedance the guitar sees is of whatever is the first block that's actually on! Going back to my example. In this ideal world, what should happen when I bypassed my fuzz? Signal would go straight through and would see the input impedance of the amp! Turn the Fuzz on and it sees the input impedance of the Fuzz Face! Nice!... Except it's not what happens in Helix. The auto setting doesn't search for the first active block, it goes for the first one, being on OR off. That's why it sounds different! When I turn the Fuzz off, Helix isn't changing the input impedance, so the guitar still sees the low input impedance of the Fuzz Face, making the amp sound just muddy, muffled. Tha auto setting as it works right now is doing pretty much nothing useful. Why? Because what it does is fixing the input impedance to whatever effect is first. If you have a compressor first, impedance will be fixed at 1M, as long as you don't change the signal path, specifically the very first effect, impedance won't change. But nobody changes the signal path while playing, so it's not really useful. Takes away the guess work to find the input impedance of the first effect, but by fixing it, makes everything that goes after have the same input impedance, making the models not nearly as accurate as they could be if the input impedance was set properly. Fixes? Two main ones are usually proposed. After a few FW updates since release the input impedance went from a global preset to the input part of every preset, great! It also can be assigned to footswitches?! GREAT! But it only works for very simple cases. It would for just fuzz-amp. I'd assign the input impedance to the footswitch that turned the fuzz on and off and make it change the input impedance from 10k to 1M. Good! But it doesn't work that great when you put just another pedal in. Let's have Fuzz-Tubescreamer-Amp, all three input impedances are different; when playing the amp it would be 1M, turning the Fuzz on would make it 10k, but now if I turn the Tubescreamer the impedance should not change, but if we assign the input impedance change to its footswitch, it will do just that. But then snapshots came and had to be it, right! Not exactly. By itself it works, but it's extremely limiting and you take in consideration the combinations of pedals I could have using the stomp mode. I'd need 4 snapshots to deal with the fuzz-ts-amp case and set the impedance accordingly, that's not really practical - and the stomp mode is still crippled. Isn't there a definitive fix? You guessed, fix the auto setting of the input impedance. If after everything I said you don't believe me, here's what the competition has to say about this: From http://community.avid.com/blogs/avid/archive/2010/04/06/the-truth-about-true-z.aspx (and a great read if you want to understand what input impedance actually does. Spoiler, it's not about bypass) "Typical guitar modeling processors have a fixed input impedance, which can limit the accuracy of the modeling. Eleven Rack's True-Z circuitry is designed to solve this problem by automatically changing the input impedance to closely match the impedance of the first active effect in the Eleven Rack signal chain." From http://www.fractalaudio.com/downloads/manuals/axe-fx-2/Axe-Fx-II-Owners-Manual.pdf "The Axe-Fx II recreates this effect by switching various (real) resistors and a capacitor in and out of the signal path. In Auto mode, the impedance is automatically set based on the first active effect the input "sees." Normally you will want to leave this on AUTO..." Here's the link to the ideascale where I proposed the auto setting fix: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/idea-v2/862873 Vote up!
  4. LineFever

    Helix direct to PA settings

    Hey Helix fans, I am trying to get a descent sound from my Helix LT direct to PA through XLR. Problem is: it always sounds to edgy/fizzy when using any kind of distortion And instead of adjusting each effect with a super low "treble" setting, I'd prefer to use them just as I would real pedals into an amp, so I stay familiar with them. I've added a global high-pass filter to 8k... but still, I find it kinda just gives a "pillow over speaker" effect Any Amp/Cabinet combo settings you would suggest that might be ideal? Any suggestions for global settings? EQ settings? Thanks everyone
  5. I hope this post goes through: Recently I was editing setting "5C" on my POD-XT Live and I've totally screwed it up, somehow, from what its "default" setting normally is (I'm too much of a wuss to seriously edit some of the effects because I know I'll forget what the default settings are) and I don't know how to "edit" it as-it-is to get the default effect setting back!!! Can someone please help me out???
  6. First of all, I'm a huge fan of Elvis Presley - especially his work from 1969-1977 with legendary guitarist, James Burton, who had previously worked (1957-1966) with the late Rick Nelson as his guitarist for nearly ten years. Here's my inquiry: During the March 27-29, 1972 Hollywood, CA recording sessions (part of which can be seen in "Elvis On Tour"), Elvis recorded a song called, "Where Do I Go From Here?" and James played a simple intro that used a wah/fuzz/volume pedal. Is it possible to re-create this kind of effect on a Line6 POD-XT Live or should I just save money and buy a Colorsound Fuzz/Wah/Volume pedal? I've posted a link to the song. Any help would be kindly appreciated. Where Do I Go From Here? Also, just out of curiosity, why is James and his gear not listed in "Tone Templates"?? I know he's not really a modern rock guitarist but, IMO, his sound (and style) influenced many guitarists from that era and from the 80s as well. I think he should be included. I know what his guitars and amps are/were both back in the 1970s and nowadays so.....if someone needs a bit of help, I can help out.
  7. Adovock

    Static Wall

    I spend most of my team using the Archetype Lead and German Ubersonic amps. I also really dig the US Deluxe Norm tone with the Vermin Dist pedal. When I play three+ string power chords, there is a very audible static wall mixed in with the sound. No matter where I move on the neck, the static keeps the same non-musical pitch, like when you'd turn to a bad channel on an old TV but higher pitched. I used this at my band's practice barn and this "fizz" overpowered my guitar while my buddy was also playing. My guess is that the distortion is making noises that have nowhere to go, so they just come out as static-sounding. It's just weird that the pitch of this "noise" stays the same. No static in clean tones. 1) How can I get rid of this annoyance? I've tried messing with the global settings, noise gates, and the input gate. I've tried messing with the drive, mids, and treble. Maybe I'm just bad! 2) Does this happen with Tube Amps, or is this just a digital issue? Thank you, Dan
  8. Rezonator

    Helix Rack - Are my ears mistaken?

    I really wanted to love the helix. I'm not new to the world of Line 6. I had an original Variax, Kidney bean, and my fair share of spider amps. As much fun as the effects and experiencing the progress of modeling was, I always found myself gravitating back to my traditional tube amps. As time passed though, I transitioned into the world of acoustics. As such, over the years I've sold off all of my traditional amps. I found myself recording primarily acoustic renditions of songs, and using DAW plugins (S-Gear 2, GTR5, etc) when recording electrics was necessary. However, I've had my eye on a new age amp modeler since the original Axe Fx came out, but never pulled the trigger on one. Years have gone by since then, and I've watched countless Axe Fx 2 and KPA videos, coming ever so close to pulling the trigger on one. Then the Helix came out. Granted, I just found out about it a couple of weeks ago, and since then have crammed more demo videos into my head than I probably should. But it was exciting. I decided the time had come to jump back into the modeling world, so I pulled the trigger on a Helix Rack, spent the money to next day it, and waiting anxiously for it to arrive. The reason why I'm giving you this backstory, is because I want you to understand that I've been in the music world for quite a while, and know my way around customizing tones. However, to save my life, I can't squeeze a good lead tone out of this box. Let me give you a run down on my setup: I'm using my PRS P22 going into the Helix, helix XLR out into my Apogee Quartet, Apogee Quartet into my computer via USB and into Logix Pro X, then output from my Quartet into my Yamaha HS8s with matching HS8 sub. It's worth noting that I've also tried going directly into my DAW via Helix USB, and it doesn't really make a difference. As far as my Helix settings go, Guitar pad is off, impedance set to auto, and no global eq. I've tried just about all of the different amps with cabs, even through in a few OH impulses, and the best way I can describe the lead sounds are digital. Especially in the high register, they have what I can only describe as the classic line 6 digital sizzle/fizz. Very thin. For comparison, I threw on a standard cali rectifier, no adjustments and it sounded weak. But when I listen to the following, I'm blown away: I know he's most likely rocking some active pickups, but it still shouldn't make THAT big of a difference. I almost wonder if I have a defective unit. If it's worth anything, when I turn the power switch on it takes about 3-4 seconds until the screen lights up. Is that normal? I would love some suggestions. I really want to make this box work, but so far I'm better off sticking with S-Gear 2 for the times I need to record.
  9. I use my Pod HD500 with my DT25 combo by using the L6 Link connectivity. It works fine, but recently I decided to add a bit more complexity to my rig by incorporating some other pedals into the signal chain. I have a C.S.E. Rasputin Fuzz, which supposed to be like a Big Muff on steroids. I tried opening a fx loop block so I could run it in front of the amp, but it creates this unbearably loud static when I turn the stompbox on. Even with the fx loop block turned off, it still makes that awful noise (while the pedal is still on). I unplugged everything and just did guitar>fuzz>amp, and I didn't get any static. I know that high-gain pedals do make a bit of noise, but it seems to amplify when I just plug it into the effects loop of the Pod. Any ideas?
  10. Add less extreme sounding fuzzes. You 'll find video demos in comments. http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Add-less-extreme-sounding-fuzzes/800313-23508
  11. jamesnlcc1

    overdrives

    Still not finding a good overdrive pedal that doesn't get fuzzy. Looking for a U2 rock-like tone. Thoughts?
  12. segomez

    M9 weird fuzz issue

    Hey guys, I've had an M9 for 6 years and I love it. Never had an issue and have never wanted to go analog. But recently I've had some weird issues with it. First, I've been noticing a very quiet fuzz/static when an effect (mostly on gain effects) is engaged. It's almost like a light Phase underneath the gain signal, and it make sustained chords or notes sound really bad. There are some gain effects I can't use all together because it makes an awful fuzz sound (including some of the fuzzes which are my bread and butter!!). Has anyone noticed this same issue? Second issue, when I go to switch scenes and press the TAP and B3 buttons then select a new scene, the pedal stays on the scene select screen. When I press the new scene again the light starts blinking from white to blue until I press it again and only exits the scene select screen if i press the TAP and B3 buttons again. Is this an extra function I was unaware of for the last 6 years?? I've recently done a factory reset to see if these issues go away but with now luck. Please help!!!
  13. aezakmipl

    After recording HD500X sounds bad.

    Hi! When I play on the amplifier, it sounds good. When I have headphones (studio headphones 668B) it have a lot of fuzz. It's the same when I record in Reaper, or other DAW. On YT people are recording by USB and it sounds naturally, and good... And for me it farts a lot. Unnatural and scary.
  14. Hi all, This is my first post, please move if I am in the wrong area. I'm looking to get a tone like used by ORGY,Deadsy, and Spineshank. Anyone who is into them knows that the Boss FZ-2 Hyper Fuzz is a huge part of the tone they have. Can anyone help me get that tone, or am I better off buying the pedal and running it into my HD500?
  15. Spider IV 75 How do I create a clean tone that does not fuzz at any level?
  16. Hey guys I just started having a problem with my UX1 that I for the life of me cannot figure out. Iv had my UX1 for over a year now, i have never had an issue with it till today, with the snap of a finger its started acting up. I didnt change any settings from what iv been using, its always been updated and whatnot, but today I noticed that my playback while playing seems a little weaker than normal, its very minimal but enough to drive me insane, so once I went to record and listened to the recorded playback I was horrified at the sound. It sounds as if my tone has lost all low end and is nothing but a high pitched fuzz, its very quiet and this is driving me up the wall. Iv tried updating drivers and all that jazz but nothing works. I didnt change any settings with the UX1 or my recording programs. (Use audacity and magix studio) Its almost as if its not getting a good signal but at the same time the real time playback is almost just what its supposed to be like, iv tried different cables and different guitars and nothing. Any help with this is much appreciated, thanks.
  17. Hello! I did disconnect the speaker wires on my Spider IV 75 combo to connect it to an external 4x12. Now i want to reconnect the internal speaker and i did not document which lead is positive and negative! Can someone please look it up for me? I also have a question about the editing software. How do i "clone" a preset? (So i can copy a sound, keeping the basic sound and do small tweaks, for example just add delay to my sound). And, if someone have nice fuzz presets for stoner rock, like Fu Manchu etc. please share! You can have my presets back :)
  18. I have a Relay G50. The other day I was playing some clean tone stuff and noticed that if I hit a chord and let it ring, the sound started clear but began to fuzz, crackle, and break up as the sustain from the guitar faded. If I roll back on the guitar volume and pick very lightly, everything I play at low volume is distorted and fuzzy. I use a DT-50, so at first I thought it might be related to the tubes, but when I removed the Relay from the signal and used a cable, there was no issue. Definitely a G50 issue. I had the firmware updated by a service tech who sent it out to Line 6 when the cable connection on the transmitter needed to be repaired, so it is the latest firmware to the best of my knowledge. I've tried switching channels, I've tried Lo and Hi power. Any ideas? Thanks!
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