gtrman100

#1 is the best way, even though this is a solid state amp. Set the Master at a desired level, and use the Amp volume to set the preset volume level with your other presets. With a tube amp, the master volume can be used in different ways to get power tube distortion, but obviously it doesn't apply to Spider amps.

If you haven't updated already, you should really update to version 2.0. Try using the classic mode which will get you closer to the sound of a regular guitar amp, rather than a FRFR system. There aren't much or cab models in the new classic mode. I would personally sift through the presets and find a tone that is close to your desired tone. I would turn off the effect and use the tone controls of the amp to tailor the basic tone. Then add effects to taste.

First, have you upgraded the software on the V to 2.0? It makes a huge difference with the Classic vs Full Range mode. Classic cuts the tweeter so it sounds like a regular guitar amp and they've tweaked the presets to sound better. Second, are you tweaking from a computer or tablet? The controls on the amp are ok, but it's much easier to find what you're looking for on one of the computer apps. I never use the amp controls to tweak unless I'm at a gig or jam. Third, go to Custom tone and try some of the presets that others have posted. There are 1000's there. I'm sure you can find something close to what you have on the IV. The V is lightyears ahead of the IV in quality of amp models. It just might take a bit of experimenting to find your tone. Fourth, the V 240 will be better to amplify your Helix. It's tweeters and extra power will do a better job of reproducing the sounds. But, the Helix is a whole different ballgame when it comes to tweaking. If you think the Spiders have a lot of controls, wait until you get the Helix. Learning on the Spider V now, will help you learn the Helix when you get it.

Sorry for the late reply. The "Plob" you hear when changing classes on the DT amps is unavoidable because the output stage is being reconfigured electronically. It is a bit annoying, but in a band context I've never had it be a big problem for me. I guess it depends on the kind of music you're playing. I would also make sure your tubes are biased properly.

I've had my DT25 (and a 50) for many years and experimented with V30's, Texas Heat, Eminence 105, and others. I find the software models included sounded the most "neutral" with the stock Celestion G12-90. It's not really FR style speaker, just one that was less biased than most guitar speakers. But that's the beauty of modeling- experiment and find what you like the best. There is no right or wrong. I'd probably sub in one of the speakers you suggested if my main tone was a vintage Marshall.

You have to use a Mac or PC to do the update. The update is done with the line 6 updater app.

Other than a few cosmetic changes, there is no difference between the original Spider V and MkII. The cosmetics are minor labeling changes on the front panel. The software is the real update. In essence, if you update your original Spider V with the latest software, you have a MkII.

Well guys, I've got the same problem as others. Before the update, I would get about 6 hours of playing time. Now after the update, maybe 2-2.5. I'm going to do a test and see accurately how long it's lasting continuously without sleep mode. BTW, this is my second unit. My first lasted a few months before it wouldn't accept a charge and it was getting hot. I hope the overheating fix isn't horrible battery life. There is no way to gig with a 2 hour battery life.

Have you gone to the page with the cab model and changed it from "Classic" to "Full Range" mode? It will probably sound like the original preset. If not you can always roll back the firmware.

The 60 has a 10" speaker, and the 120 has a 12" speaker and XLR output connectors. That's the only difference besides power. For home practice personally, the 60 should be fine, but if you ever want to jam with others, I'd get the 120.

The Spider V20 has no ability at add a foot pedal to select presets, which is limiting your ability to switch quickly between two presets. You can do it with the Spider Remote app, but it's not as easy. I just replied to your other post about a clean tone. You might trade your V20 for a V30 which will probably meet your needs better.

With a small inexpensive digital practice amp like the V20, you're probably not going to get decent results with outboard pedals. It wasn't designed for it. If you've tried the "Acoustic" amp, it's probably going to be as close as you'll get to a clean, unmodeled tone. There is no way to access the power amp directly with that model. The Spider V30 model and above you can access the power amp using the aux input for just the purpose you are looking for.

All the amp models are mono, but some of the effects are stereo. I would just stay away from stereo effects- reverb, modulation and delays.

I'm surprised that Line 6 hasn't posted it on this forum, but here's the info: https://line6.com/g10recall/ Some G10 units have overheated(mine included). This update cures the problem

The toe switch can be hard to engage, especially if it's on carpet. Just press down very hard and it should turn on the wah. It should loosen up with repeated use.

If you don't want to spend the money on an FBV3, the Express should give you a volume pedal, plus the ability to change presets with the footswitches which would make it easier for you to switch between electric and acoustic instruments easily.

Just scroll through the presets until you find something that's close to the tone you're looking for. Then you can use the tone controls to tweak for the guitar your playing. It's all a matter of taste which is why digital modeling amps are cool- you have a wide variety of tones to experiment with. Good luck!

It could be a ground loop- check the ground lift switch next to the XLR's in both positions and see if it helps. Another thing to try is to plug the Spider into the same wall outlet as your mixer. House wiring can really affect the noise level. Good luck

Wow, touchy touchy! Sorry to offend...

It's probably class D- they're most common these days, use less power and are cheap. No way to know unless you have a schematic or open up the cabinet (which might void the warranty). What difference does it make to you?

Here is the list of amp models, so you can research the amps that are in the ballpark of the tones you're looking for: https://line6.com/support/page/kb/amplifiers/spider-v/spider-v-series-model-list-r839/

No you can’t unless you want to take a line out of the amp, or use the effects send.

What do you mean hook up an external speaker? You mean take the back off the cabinet and attach wire to the speaker terminal? DON'T DO THAT YOU'LL POSSIBLY BLOW UP YOUR AMP! The only Spider V that you can hook up external speakers is the Spider V 240HD. It is meant to work with the external cabinets, none of the others can't. If you mean change the internal speaker to another, I wouldn't. The models are created to sound best with the stock speaker.

The presets are all the same. What is different is the new software version (mkII) adds the classic speaker mode which cuts off the tweeter. The amp sounds more like a typical guitar amp instead of a PA speaker playing a recording of a guitar amp. They redid all the presets so they sound good with the new mode. You can still select the original mode by going into the Cab modeling page and selecting it.

When I updated to MkII, it became readily apparent that the base tones of the presets were more "amp like" which is what I think the vast majority of guitar players expect when they demo an amp for the first time. I got very good tones with the MkI software, but I think if you readjust your presets, you'll find that the tones are markedly improved. I still use the FR software for acoustic tones, and for some more exotic sounds where I want it to be a "mixed" sound. YMMV