spaceatl

A resistor and a 9V Zenor Diode would probably do it in a quick and dirty way....A DC regulator would be better...ans a decent all in one package will cost half as much a new 9VDC....Here's a 5 amp one... http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Converter-Regulator-Power-Module/dp/B00ESYUF9K

None of my Delta Labs pieces have power switches...Supertimeline and Effectrons....My ADA MP-1 does have a power switch and it's modifed to be always on....power switches on foot controllers are not the best idea IMHO....None of my BOSS pedals have power switches....So where to draw the line...I would not think one would want a power switch on a 9VDC pedal....Especially when you integrate into a larger board...That's when we modify anything that has a power switch...

There are 3 things I do for single tone patches to get rid of a good bit of it.... 1st....kill the second input....It will default to "Same" which increases the level...This can drive the amp and some FX models hard...for some models like the Park 75, this is actually handy to push the drive harder... 2nd...turn down the Master Amp DEP control...20-50% depending on the model...100% on the JCM800 is just wrong...nope, sorry...never ran teh master on one of those that hot in real life and I bet it would sound like A$$ and kill your ears... 3rd...run down the resonance on the cab...quite a bit...sometimes 0%....I think the highest one I have is 13%... This is just a general approach for a medium output passive guitar using single tone patches....Different model combinations spin up a little different, but in generally those three things help get it under control I think...

Ok....I think I see hwat could be part of your problem here....It's the pedals together....A level and impedance mismatch Eddie did on purpose....This might be a case for a BOSS LS-2 for the buffer correction...anyhoo, this is what I see... The HD Loop switch between +4 and -20 dbv....10K I/O impedance I think... EVH-90 is a 1M input and 10K output with -20 dbv input and output... EVH117 is 470K input and 1K output impedance with +5 dbv input and output...A loud tone sucker... Needless to say, these pedals are completely different....EVH90 is high impedance input, so I think you want to put it before the 117....This is what Eddie did, but that line level was taken off a dummy load on the speaker output....The 117 is low impedance and going to suck the tone and make it turn brown....At least his is part of the recipe... My suggestion: HD Loop set to Line Level HDSend->EVH90->EVN117->HDReturn The reason I say Line Level is because Eddie hit the phase 90 off a dummy load...Because it's 1M input, it will not overload very easily....This is probably where the tone is too...The flanger on the end is a no brainer...That's part of the tone bowning....Basically, I think if you are trying to approximate the sound of these pedals, you gotta slam some signal thru them....you might need extra buffers Like a BOSS LS-2 to drive the pedals like they need to be driven AND match the level and impedance back to the HD...Eddie was all about using a "house of cards" in impedance mismatches all over his rigs getting that tone....Really cool stuff...

Some of the modeling features on that Yamaha amp sure look familiar....

short circuit your FX Loop with a cable...Did you try one pedal at a time? Might help isolate where the issue is coming from...Odd you hear things with the loop off...

hmmm....no green light seems odd....I think there have been incidents here and there of some retailers putting the old XT/X3 AC supply with the HD when it has been an open box sale...The last I had heard about that happening was a few years ago when HD first came out....This will not work...Make sure that your supply is the new one...9v DC with a green LED ....POD went from AC to DC when HD came out and the old supplies do not work correctly...

There is a slight difference between the DT50 and the DT25....Basically, the 12AX7 tube(s) are part of the power amp technically. In the DT50 the extra 12AX7 (there are two) is a single triode buffer (Not Cascaded) and both have a 12AX7 Inverter....The buffer in the DT25 is FET or some such...

It's not under Line 6 Edit....That's actually a very old application....Your screen has to be pretty large to see the Spider Valve Mk2 Edit selection or you can select all software and scroll down forever.... I think this is the right link for the download... http://line6.com/software/readeula.html?rid=3128

You guys are giving my baby food jar nightmares of synching my old KZ1000 carbs...and adjusting the valves with shims...talk about analog.... :lol:

So where did you read that exactly?

I might tinker with a specific channel to master volume setting for recording, but that isn't really practical live where you tend to need volume leveled patches.... If you are looking to loosen up the master volume a little bit, a fairly inexpensive thing you can do is jump the FX Loop with a 10K pot....Then you can leave your patches alone and perhaps get the master out of the touchy zone... .If what you are really wanting to do is get some crank tone into any volume, then what you might really be after is an attenuator.... https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/mass150.htm

Check out the links I posted...A relay is an analog switch....Add midi and the HD500 can control the switch.

you could get a gizmo or a midi solutions relay... http://www.rjmmusic.com/ampgizmo.php http://www.midisolutions.com/prodrel.htm

About 10 years for me....I have been missing the global EQ since the AX2...

My comment was a throwback....Too old to venture into such places these days....I have seen some pretty crazy stuff....Back in the late 80s there was a venue I played that had stripper poles on each side of the stage...It was a decadent time...I forget the exact name of the venue but it was in Jacksonville, NC near Camp Lejeune...Live 80s metal with Strippers for our Marines...Those were some pretty wild shows... @edstar1960 - I am wondering if you being in the UK on 240 might be running your PSU near the top of its input range could be contributing to the heat....Only thing I could think of that might be different for you and me...I have been running mine on regulated 120v...

I am just lazy...My preference is a 5 foot snake on the back of the stage and a dumb controller on one cable with no signal on the front of the stage....I have had a few incidents over the years and took my pedals off the front of the stage many years ago even before Line 6 came along...I used an RP-1 way way back and that was what pretty much turned me off to the notion of these all-in-one pedalboard/rig boxes...It has nothing to do with what one can practically do with them and the HD500 is certainly 1000 times better built than any RP-1...I just like my signal in the backline where it's easy to setup and I don't have to worry about the 250 lbs tipsy dude that got into the wrong place and fell over backwards with my MK1 shortbard breaking his fall squarely in the middle of his back...Two rows of dents in his leather jacket...That event some 8 years ago sold me on the shortboard...And even though I have a MK2 now, I still do shows with that same old MK1 board that I have had for just over 10 years now...love the old green screen with LCD patch numbers and titles over the new smaller orange display...

Once you compensate the gain to get things matched should be ok....I would not do it with an HD500....An HD Pro...sure....Too many cables...

So what they heck are you guys doing with your PSUs that is making them split in half? Are you sure this isn't a case of you pi$$ing off a stripper after a gig and she stuck her stilletto thru it while you were too busy talking to her friend that was 10x hotter? :D

POD HD is 10x better than Vetta Models....FX a better too....Especially in FRFR situations and SS power amps on gtr cabs....I often use my HD Desktop with my old Flextone III XL (same XT models just fewer and same power amp as the Vetta II combo)....it is a convenient little stereo guitar cab and it has enough power for the little rehearsal situations I use it for..Held its own next to an AC30 just fine. I do have different speakers than the stock ones....Never have liked Celestions in a modeling rig...

Your Vetta Power amp is nothing but a very simple Class AB Transistor HiFi amplifier....You could use it on small full range PA speakers and the response would be no different than just about any other stereo SS power amp that puts 75 watts per channel into 8 ohms.... There is nothing mystical or magical about a power amp....Certainly there are some that have some extra tone controls of some type that make them easier for a guitar player to use....in the end, it's your preamp and your cabinet that will make the distinction between PA and guitar usage....A power amp is a power amp and is just there for power....Certainly Tubes behave differently, but no real difference in the bandwidth other than tube amps tend to be wider going upwards of 30-40 Khz flat....Turn them upside down and they all look like sisters.... :D

Fuses are cheap...But they generally blow because of a failure the prevent damage...It's really hard to say what the problem might be without actually seeing the situation...Because you amp is not powering up at all, I am not sure that it's a tube issue...You could have failed tubes, but that's usually the tube protection fuse and not the main power fuse...But tubes can fail in a lot of ways...The tube protection fuse is marked on the back of the amp...checking that would yield more information...Blown power tubes sometimes have a white fog on the glass...but not always... The normal warranty "might" not matter. I urge you to contact Line 6 and open a ticket so that they know your serial number. At that point, you will know what your options are...

A couple of simple things you can check...There is a fuse in the IEC power jack. This is the jack where the power cable connects...The fuse is in a little black plastic rectangle box that comes out of the connector itself...If this fuse is blown, probably a good idea to follow Brazzy's recommendation and open a ticket....The power fuse on the back is the only thing I can think out that would cause it not to power up at all....And that "could" be a good clue on getting the serial number checked I think.

I generally have gone with Medical Grade 9VDC Supplies for pedal boards and such....They generally have a nice wide input range and are well regulated (Better than any OEM supply)... HD being 9VDC makes this pretty simple...I have two supplies at the moment, but I will go with a 4A medical when the time comes... http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/GSM36B09-P1J.shtml