BillBee

Dude - just get a looper pedal and put the drill away. You will be better off in the long run with more functionality and use. Just saying. :)

Budget cuts? :)

I saw the vid but I can't understand what he was saying. So I am just assuming based on what you said that the flash caused incompatibility between the two. It can happen I suppose, but I had not heard of it before.

If I was a gambling man I would guess 4th of July and/or Labor Day. It is a great deal and update for the HDs.

Use the latest one as it includes all of the others. Everytime you reflash it rewrites the whole thing so there is little pint in doing it one at a time. I wouldn't worry too much about the FBV not working as I haven't ran across any reports of such. But I do understand. ;) -B

You should be able to flash back to an older firmware if things go wrong. I do recommend downloading the flash file to your PC first and choose the flash from file option in Monkey - I have had less problems and fewer "hung" flashes that way.

The problem most likely is that your UXs are not authorized to use Pod Farm 2. Not all are and it is doubtful the red faced ones were (or all the black faced ones either). Now on the other hand Pod Farm 1 should be fine.

My old XTL will do this once in a while and the only thing I could figure out was its either a) power supply b) flash memory c) something is dying in there - memory or d) pot jitter. It turned out to be d. With the unit off I turned all the encoders clockwise multiple times and then the other way. The common thought is that dust and such gets in there (or some oxidation) and can cause setting changes when the sound hits it (or sometimes it seems like a light breeze too). You could also (with the unit off and unplugged) spray some DeOxit on a cable end and plug it in and out a few times. I have a few old amps that need that once in while as the jacks oxidize and make the volume jumps. Hope that works. -B

I've used the MKI fbv and an updated HD Bean with no issues. I actually like the older one as the display is a bit larger.

Hey Thanks my man, I am like yourself - I had problems and came here and lots of great people helped so just paying back as I can. Things do break over time - my X3L, XT Pro and others but in all honesty I have had a Zoom G9 barf, Digitech RPs crap. But like yourself I have a shelf of other L6 gear that keeps going. Its one reason I like the Beans - I edit on the PC (saves the knobs and buttons) and the FBVs are cheaper to replace and/or fix. You don't need to take the XTL apart - just put it on your lap and grab a flashlight. Shine it in the usb port and you should see the wires that the cable should hit when plugged in. In the middle of the port there is a wee little plastic block (your HD has it too) the block keeps things aligned and centered. As you have guessed - if things don't line up then its not going to work. Now if that part is bad its a part that should not break the $$ point of fix/replace and yep there are a lollipop load of screws. But man its a toughie to throw $ at something where there might be a bigger issue looming. I do feel your pain and if you try the MAudio usb/midi cable to flash be sure to try in/in and out/out as that cable seems to work that way for me (vs the out/in, in/out which is usual). BTW the Metal Pack for the HD does justice to the XT/X3 models \m/ Big Bottom Amp \m/ -B

Stuff breaks my man and life goes on. You can get another XTL for under $100 and the Bean for less. The midi USB cable is ~ $30 +/- who knows if that will work it might as it was used for firmware flashing on the first XTLs to enable the USB. Check the port for bent pins or missing center block btw. Your biggest problem would be the model pack not showing as it might actually be indicating a bigger problem - memory (but just guessing). -B

Look in Customtone - link is at the top.

That is always the case when changing from the factory gauges on a lot of guitars. Ibanez are my favorite examples as the old RGs are factory set for 9s go slap so 11s on there and its chaos and mayhem until you reset the trem and probably hit the truss. That is with a Floyd, now with a regular nut you have to start looking at the nut if you have the "pings" (you know when tuning and you hear a "ping") as the thicker gauges probably don't jibe with the narrower nut slots (graphite lube will help BTW). A mass produced guitar has to be homogenized a bit so mere mortals can afford them.

I've used Ernie Ball Slinkys for ~10 years + and always hit them with Fast Fret to give them a clean when done. 1 month is about their max limit (shorter during the summer). Elixir sent me a couple of mystery packs to test for a month and I have to say pretty nice. They haven't developed the "tacky" feel the uncoated ones will get and still sound fresh after a couple of weeks. The feel of the top strings did take a bit to get used to then after 5 minutes its no biggie. A decent set of the thumb wheel locking tuners can cut the restringing chore time a bit if it is a real PITA for you. Pull it through, clamp it, tune it cut it.

ITs been a while since I fired up Pod Farm (so here is some guessing) - check to see if you are running any stereo fx and I think there may be a mixer in there to set the panning. Maybe something got tweaked to throw the balance off.

Eeesh it would be shorter to ask what isn't digital modeling. :D Basically, if you have the analog rig figured out (pedal order, pre amp types and cab differences) then you already have knowledge of what a modeler can do. It digitally emulates your input signal through what "the designers" have measured in the "high tech secret labs" would be if it was run through a "real World" rig. Take the POD of any version edit it to have no fx just an amp and cabinet. Plug your guitar in, pop on your headphones and you now have say a "Twin Reverb" through a 1x12" in that POD. Here is the rub - YMMV, you may have to put some work in to get what you like. Recording: Usually pod->mic'd cab or pod->direct but its whatever works. A POD is just one brand of modeler there are quite few out there. The PODs offer great versatility and possibly portability (if you go ampless) - I would not say that it is better than a well done pedal board as it depends on what you want and where you want to go. My opinion. A bank is just group of patches. Think of it like a calendar. Like each week has 7 days, and 4 weeks to a month. Pod V2 - 4 patches = bank ~ 32 banks while others have more. Just an example as it varies but is generally a variation of a theme. I don't know how productive that will be but amp modeling has been around its not new Pod V1 ~1996 so its nothing new its just getting better. I am sure you can google up a link and after reading a bunch you will have a concept of what it is enough to understand. -B

I ran the XTL into a Tech 21 PE60 and used its XLR out to the desk or just mic'd the cab. You can use a DI box to go to XLR for longer runs to the board. I never ran the Stereo FX as they didn't translate well over the PA. Best config? Toughie it depends if all your patches are ear pleasing to you. Some like a FRFR amp or powered speaker, some like tube power amps.

Hey ffbrgst (man I still don't know if I type that right :) ), I know its a lot of a/d a/d but would running the 1/4" out from the UX to another audio interface (focurite, MAdudio Fast track etc..) then to the DAW be the way to check that?

A7X has some great stuff and they do use a lot of diminished licks tossed in for that creepy vibe. Try looping one part at 1/2 speed and play the second to see if there is that tonal shift going on.

I thought the same thing but I still dig out the XT Live and actually used it at some gigs last year - it still sounds good, Besides I have had them for quite a while and have gotten more than enough use. Have a toneport authorize it to use the packs for Pod Farm, get a spare XT. Its all good. I have probably wasted more money on Windows OS over the years. :D You can try and sell the packs - only glitch is if you got them on sale. Reason "you cannot gift the triple pack if bought on sale <- I think.

That Phyrgian Flavor ;)

Man I want to agree with you on what I remember of that tune. During one Am arp section guitar 2 is a 3rd higher. Am natural -> Em, but if its Am Harmonic -> Emaj look for the G#. Try putting one part on a looper and then manually harmonize it to see what's up.

Wow that was cool! Thanks for the share. Great job too my man! :D

No, you lose nothing, you will still have them.

Did the transition myself and I love being able to use some of my favorite XT/X3 amps with the HD fx. Well worth it.