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Wait... Does this mean you didn’t bother to read the thread? - My guess was disproven days ago in this thread.

I really like reading Eric's posts just because he always sounds so stoked about whats just around the corner. I feel like he probably reads some forums on the can in the AM then giggles like a kid all the way to work, lol.

Thanks for the kind words regarding https://helixhelp.com, @cgar18 and everyone else. @Lynxpaw Helix Help has been a passion project of mine that I basically created for myself. It just happened to be picked up by a large part of the Helix community over the years. If its not your cup of tea, that’s ok, there are other options already available and you can always create your own personal guide. If you’d like to improve the crappiness of Helix Help instead, please feel free to send me some suggestions or a feature list you’d like to see and I’ll see what I can do to make it happen (just use the contact form on the site). Your ideas would likely make Helix Help way better and that is really all I care about. Lets make it awesome and more helpful for the community together! I hope you all have a great day! Keep on playing.

...forum 'police' much better? Or maybe you don't really care about etiquette, just feeling better about yourself by putting others down? Its ok, I believe you can be better! :)

i think i got it! i have to let the "usb in1/2 destination parameter" on multi and i have to send the first channel on 3/4 and the second on 5/6. Thank you for your help!

What I said about the first effect determining pickup loading applies to REAL effects, Helix hardware, etc. Your pickups using plugins like Native are always going to be loaded by the AI input, which is effectively the first effect, and will be 1M. Certain FX, as Sascha said, won't sound "authentic" with the pickups loaded at 1M.

Impedance determines how the pickips are "loaded" if you're connected by cable (not wireless). The input impedance of the first first effect the signal hits determines the pickup load. Some effects are designed to sound best with the pickups loaded relative to their input impedance. It's complicated, LONG threads here and on TGP. Input LEVEL is just how hot the input signal is. Too hot it overloads the AI's preamps. IOW, different animals. Do what sounds best to you.

Hey! Just saw this thread and thought I'd take a stab at creating something like that EFX pedal where you hit the button while holding a chord and it records the chord, hit it again and you can play over top as much as you want. EHX Freeze I think it's called. With a couple limitations of what the footswitches can do, it's not quite the same (it takes 2 buttons), I think I managed to do a pretty decent job. It's not like OMG it's the same effect, but it's close enough to be useful! I attached the patch to this post. What I did is I took one of my favorite stock patches (Flood in Texas), which works great with my RG in single coil mode (a high output strat, basically), and built a freeze effect into it. There's one switch that turns on or off a delay effect and also sets they delay effect's feedback to 100% when on and 0% when off... so this button is the effect on/off and freeze reset all in one ... to clear the freeze sound that's playing you hit it to turn the effect block off. This also clears the feedback delay buffer after one last playthrough at 0% feedback, so next time you turn it on there's no sound until you enable the freeze thing. Otherwise, turning it on again just started playing back the previously frozen sound again... there was no way to reset it. This also gives the extra feature of letting you supplement the current freeze with more tones... get a freeze going, set it to play over top, play a super amazing harmony up high on the neck or something that will go well with your already frozen chord, turn on path 2 for a second or two and then turn it off again, and now your freeze is the combination of the two chords, and you're back to playing over top. If you want a way to record a new, different, freeze chord to replace the currently playing one without turning the button 1 effect off and on again, try this: -- play a new chord (different key or whatever now for next part of song) with button 2 turned off while the freeze is still playing, then quickly hit button 1 button 1 button 2, wait a second or two then hit button 2 again. You've just wiped the old freeze effect and turned it off, turned the freeze effect on again, turned on record freeze for the chord you are already playing, waited a couple seconds for it to fill in the freeze effect nicely, then turned off the freeze record setting so you can play over top. It's a foot dance, but doable. From what I've seen of the ACTUAL freeze pedal, this is honestly not that much harder to use. There's a second switch that toggles between 2 paths (using volume blocks with preset state toggles). I currently am using it in an on/off state, but possibly it could be setup as a momentary thing... Not sure that's important though as this works really well. So when this 2nd button is OFF, it takes path 2, which bypasses the "freeze" effect path. So this is for normal playing even when the freeze effect is turned on, and it prevents anything going INTO the freeze effect to be added to the freeze loop. Just play normally, and normal sounds come out - no freeze. When 2nd button is ON (assuming the freeze effect is turned on), signal is routed into the freeze effect path (there are I think 3 effects in this section - a soft attack thing, a digital delay with roughly half second loop and 100% feedback when enabled, and an ethereal kind of reverb effect). So to use it, you turn on 1st button to enable the effect, then (ideally) play a chord and right after attack turn on the second button for like a second or two then off again, and voila, freeze effect! You could just not play until both buttons are on then strum a chord and then turn off the 2nd button, but it'll have a lot of attack in it. The first effect in the block of 3 could, potentially, help take care of that, but it's just easier and way better sounding to strum right before you hit the 2nd button. I'd say 1st button is effect enable and disable/reset. 2nd button is record enable and disable for what gets frozen. I then put some other nice delays/reverbs in the other path and have lots of fun playing various styles over top of that freeze. To me it sounds just like the demos of the EFX freeze pedal. Update: I just attached the patch! Hope it's fun for people! The buttons are 10 (2c) and 11 (2d): Button row 2 C and 2 D are buttons 1 and 2 of the freeze effect. 1B is just a delay for playing normal guitar, 1C is a reverb for playing normal guitar, and bottom row 2B is a really atmospheric reverb, again just for playing normal guitar. bottom row 2C enabled/disables/resets freeze effect, and bottom row 2D enables/disables recording the freeze part (bottom row 2C must be turned on for this effect to work properly though). There's a wah too you can enable by stomping on the pedal. The freeze just sounds like a sort of mystical version of the chord you played, as though held on an organ or something. I purposely kept the freeze level lower than regular playing so you can play over top of it (the output of the delay stage). Strat+Hold DBK.hlx

This says that's not going to happen! Hope that clears that up.

Oh that's awesome. Thanks for the news! I had heard the poly thing coming soon but never that loud clear :)

To clarify the comments about poly pitch effects. That "someone from Line 6" that you mention is Eric Klein (Chief Product Design Architect at Yamaha Guitar Group, Inc. / Line 6 / Ampeg) - who was replying to the comment posted by "TheBoyWithDog" who said "A DigiTech drop model has been confirmed for 3.0..." Digital Igloo's response was: "No it hasn't. All we've said is poly." It's quite apparent from that statement that poly will be in the new firmware, just NOT a DigiTech drop model. The thing about polyphonic pitch shifting is no secret and was mentioned to be in the pipeline a long time back. Here's some additional evidence of Poly effects in v3.0 firmware - screen grab from the "Line 6 Helix Family User Group OFFICIAL and ORIGINAL" Please note specifically the comment from Phil Miller, who is a Line 6 Beta Tester and posts on this forum as "phil_m". There is a further comment from "Peter Hamm" another Beta Tester who is also known to post here.

One thing to consider in your choices - the new guitar process goes like this: Arrive at home, admire for 30 seconds, plug in, then begin playing. Play more hours than you probably should since it's a new toy... admire and then go to bed, start over in the morning. With the Helix it's - arrive home, spend next 3 weeks figuring it out, get angry at why it sounds flubby, tinny until you find a decent enough patch... study your butt off (all the time not actually playing any guitar... weeks go by and you are finally figuring out all the quirks & complexities... now spend months watching youtube videos, tweaking, learning, changing your understanding of how sound works, getting berated on forums for being a dolt by some superior helix users with 10K hours under their belt... continuing to struggle for months... spend your entire winter constantly messing with helix to emerge in the spring having lost some of your playing ability since you dedicated 2000 hours toward helix and not playing anything more than a few licks that came to mind. But now the good news is that you are pretty adept at using helix and have some good patches setup so you can finally get back to playing and enjoying guitar. I'm exaggerating a bit here, well maybe - bottom line is helix is a massive time sink.... do you WANT or NEED that right now?

I agree with pianoguyy. One tone is all you need. If you have a good tone, you don't need to change it unless you're playing it through a different amp/cab that colors your tone differently.

I'd say whichever one entices you to enjoy playing, practicing, and recording more. Problem is, you likely won't know that until you get it!

Let me put it that way: There might be situations when the differences might become very obvious - when they aren't in other situations. Usually, when fooling around with the volume knob of your guitar, the difference might be very very noticeable, way in favour of a true high-z input. Similar things go for certain drive pedal types, most notably of the fuzzy kind. But then, in case you like the sound as is, why not just do it that way? However, I'm wondering about the way your high-z input behaves. If done properly, such an input should be able to deal with any typical guitar signal just fine. Fwiw, in case you're using active pickups, you can basically use whatever you like, they're throwing out a low impedance signal already. Same goes for any active (or non true bypass) pedal in front of your interface.

There's a big difference between component-level modeling and simply copying IP whole-hog...

I've never bought into the studio vs live stuff. One tone is all you need. Now, with that being said - the studio allows you to do so much that you cannot do live. So, in that instance, you could run two different tones. I'll give you an example... Jimi Hendrix. There are enough live recordings of him out there (and those were long before KISS made the studio do-overs an industry standard). You can clearly hear a difference in his live and studio tones. But, he "created art" in the studio. Far different than his 3-man band rock concerts. So, unless you are doing so some wild creations that you cannot re-create live.... one tone is all you need. And yet, at the same time, this also assumes you are making your tones and your recordings correctly. Because technology gives so many variables that didn't exist in the old days. I don't make recordings for the teens with the iPod headphones. Nor do I make live music for the "please play quietly, I am trying to live stream" crowd. It makes a difference.

That only works in FRFR mode when the tweeter is on.

Arislaf - I picked up a Helix LT a few months back.. Your JCM 800 Mod patch is absolutely fantastic! Sounds like a real amp in the room. Killed all the presets i've created. Since I'm using an Alto TS312 I removed the double take (double track). Well done! If you ever have any new ones, please let us know! Im a fan!

i had mine suddenly go very dull when i saved a patch - for some reason auto impedence was changing to a very low setting on that patch .. just woke and didn't have time to read all posts here but check impedence setting is one thing on the checklist for bad sounding helix fixes

Kind of - sold the Helix and moved to AX8....!

Maybe I worded it wrong or more likely you understood it wrong. What I'm referring to is lowering the input slider in Native (as you can see, it's adjustable) by -7.5db as to decrease the incoming signal even further. Now hopefully I haven't lost you here, but that then puts my actual input level at that -12 we referenced earlier. So if we want to wrap that all up and really drive it home. My input level WAS too high, so decreasing it by 7.5db I brought it nearer to the suggested level. It worked in my specific scenario and I added my experience in the hopes it could help benetbenet or somebody else who may stumble onto this thread. See, that's how this whole forum/community thing works

Not very good, honestly. Missing a lot of descriptions.

Butthurt? Lol, I don't care how much work went into it, it's crap.

That's not common sense, that's you making a wild guess. Try again.

2nd paragraph; ‘plain guesswork on my part’ last paragraph; ‘no guesswork at all, just plain facts’ So which one is it, armchair computer genius?

Wait... Does this mean you didn’t bother to read the thread - or the threads on FB and TGP, where this stuff has been gone over endlessly?

Shut up, Meg. Being a forum ‘vet’ is about the lamest thing one can lay claim to.