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BillBee

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Everything posted by BillBee

  1. Pretty Sweet - just what I was looking for - I would not have thought of that! Thanks Space! I wonder if this could be a "end of pipe" fx loop workaround for mods/delays..... hmmmmm -B
  2. The newer (IIRC) non-eprom ones have "FBV" above the pedal port. Though if your Pod is showing its a 2.0 I would not worry about it - except for floorboard choices. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58 Q: What is the difference between the original POD/POD 2.0 and the newer POD 2.0? A: The most obvious differrences are the display now have a different 3-digit LCD display and the POD is now labeled 'FBV' above the RJ45 connection to show compatibility with the FBV series foot controllers. These newer POD 2.0's are not compatible with the older FB4 or Line 6 Floor Board controllers. The newer POD 2.0 also has a different processor from the original and is not upgradeable via EPROM chip. Also, because of this new processor, the modeling of this POD 2.0 may sound slightly different that an original POD 2.0. This is where you can get the flash memory for the newer 2.0s: http://line6.com/software/index.html Though I would not do it unless you have to and that is only after you get the midi/usb connection working well. I don't want you to make a paperweight. :) I still use the orginal pods (or floor pods) they just sound good. -B
  3. http://line6.com/support/topic/10362-old-school-pod-pro-rack-tone-swap-issues/?do=findComment&comment=71349 There ya go my man! In a nutshell - No it is not going to happen. -B
  4. Hey Zovs, I wouldn't reflash the Pod unless you really have too. The FAQs here have lots on stuff boiled down: http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/pod/pod-20-podxt-family-pocket-pod-floorpods/original-pod-pod-20-faqs-r497 A reset on the 2.0s goes like this: http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/general-faq/line-6-device-factory-reset-procedures-r435 POD/POD 2.0/Bass POD/POD Pro: press and hold the up and down arrow buttons as you power the unit on for ~ 5-7 seconds or until it goes to the preset 1-A The eprom thing was a legacy from the original V1 where we could swap out chips for the upgrade (btw my old V1 Pod is still running so they are pretty tough). If you have a 2.0 eprom in it be gratefull because L6 has been out of them for a long, long time. -Bill
  5. Hey There my man, Before you go punting the Pod let try a few things. a) The midi/usb adaptor - what type are you using? The M-Audio Uno is the one that I know works (I use it). b) Above the ethernet port does it say FBV? (there are two different 2.0 versions and that can determine which floorboard can be used). All the software you will need is here: http://line6.com/software/ Pretty much all you are going to need is Line 6 Edit. The midi/usb connection is the biggest hurdle after that its all downhill. -Bill
  6. Have you been able to try it on another PC just to make sure your system hasn't issues itself? -B
  7. I had seen that one quite a while ago - less than $100 used. Tough to say how good it would be without being able to stomp on it for a while - Nux has been stepping up its game over the last few years. Though TBH I would look at the Zoom G1XON first for the low $ multis -> New ~$70 shipped. IIRC its got the algos of the G3 series. -B
  8. ^ Yep.... those amp models suck down the DSP like its at an open bar :) -B
  9. Last evening I used the conversion program Zap suggested to convert from HD500 presets to use on an HD Desktop. Worked fine. Going from an HDx to a HD might cause problems only because the HDx has more DSP headroom and would pass the limit that the HD (non X) has on some patches. But going from an HD to HDx should present no issues. -Bill
  10. Hey there 357 - was fooling around with the JCM-800 model yesterday so here goes for the Scorps at least: The amp model on its own won't cut it, you need to put a distortion block in front and pump the gain on that up (at the least a TS in front). I set the JCM's gain ~ 85% and the Dist Heavy ~ 75% into a digital delay 225 ms, ~ 40% mix (IRRC I used the XXL 4x12 cab also - S57 off axis mic). Start with that and then add in a red comp, noise gate for fine tuning, EQ when you can depending on your setup. Sounded fine jamming with Big City :) edit: comp->Dist->amp->delay-> Try it with a humbucker in the bridge too - single coils just seem thin. If you haven't already you can use a push/pull pot and use a coil tap to go back to single coils tones. That should get you in the ball park. Love the Scorps! Bill
  11. Hi There, I am not sure how much this is going to help you but here goes..... The HD500 is not here so I can't load up your patch. If the problem is only when you are playing relatively clean have your stack off to the side and not pointed at you guitar, amp feedback can be like PA feedback. The amp is pumping everything back at your pu's. If you are going for heavy distortion/crunch the above will help too. If that is not the case you can dial back the gain on your pre amps. IMO at loud volumes 90 - 95% gain is too much and that is w/o a distortion pedal pumping the gain up more. -B Ohh forgot to add: set patch to input1 -> guitar and input2 -> variax
  12. Thank-you pfsmith0!! Finally sat down to come to grips with the EQs (after years of XTs and X3s EQs) and this really made sense. I can understand some of the migration worries a new buyer might have, but its not a deal breaker once the understanding is there. It really is an excellent device. I've had more time and am able to dig in - I am getting it. (had to push this thread back up). :) --Bill
  13. It is not going to happen my man. I have both myself and the two units are independent of each other - aside from being pretty and red :) The Pod can do some great sounds and to an extent I still use it as a great grab and go multifx into the ole power amp - I use an Art X-15 or the trusty R-Tron Midimate as the controller FWIW. The XT (with the model packs - a must buy imho) is a whole different level of knob twisting but the older Pod can do clean to metal easily. Line6 Edit can be used to edit in some pretty good tones so I would record your buds tones for your PC and edit yours to see what you can come up with. When having a 2nd axe in the band I would always use a different tone to fill in the tonal gaps anyway. Welcome to the forums btw! Bill
  14. Hey There, It could be you need to reverse the midi connections to the Pod (in to out and out to in is the standard but sometimes in to in and out to out works)). But first, connect everything fire up L6E and go to the config option (its not in front of me but the option is at the top under one of the menus) and select the midi/usb as the "ins and outs". Which midi/usb cable did you buy? If it is the cheap $5 -bay special 9/10 you will get connection issues. The MAudio Uno works well. -B
  15. Here ya go and welcome to the forums! Bass POD XT Pro and Bean: press SAVE once, use the select key to scroll clockwise to “factory recall†page, then press SAVE twice. Bass POD XT Live: see POD XT Bean/Live/Pro For an XT (should be the same as the bass) For contrast: Press the Tuner button, scroll down ->Select knob to you hit Contrast -> use Effect Tweak to adjust contrast. -B
  16. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh..... friends............. :wub:
  17. Thanks for tones - I'll check them out when I get home - welcome to the forum too! Triryche - Have you been out surfing again? :) -B
  18. The UX2 becomes the soundcard so try running it direct to your HiFi. :) Don't have a Mac but it should be the same as a PC. -B
  19. IIRC, you can by turning the amp knob all the way to the left (or right) - its one or the other but it does turn it off. -B
  20. IMO the HD looper is "ok" and there are some neat things that can be done with it but it really needs to be able to quantize (ie: fill in the gaps). So if you ever get the urge to look for an external looper remember that term. -B
  21. Hi Jack - no problem. I did something similar some days ago so let me find out where it is and I'll link you too it. BRB! -B Alright - here is a nice neat copy and paste: The vids may be old but they are still relevant and use the correct terminology for the purposes you need. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=_u8j9ZAUzC4 That is the vid for an X3L but its the same for X3. 1) Download a tone from CT (link is at the top of this page). 2) Connect your X3 via usb cable to your PC. It should install it. 3) Start Gearbox and you should see your X3 detected. 4) 2 windows will open the "HW Memory Window" of tones on your X3 and the editor itself. 5) Drop & Drag the tone you downloaded into a slot of your choice 6) There is an option at the top left to save (its either sync or save - not home so its a IIRC). The vid will go through visually what is done albeit a lil briskly at times. But once you are connected to Gearbox things will look more familiar and you give you a frame of reference. -B
  22. http://line6.com/software/index.html You need to install Gearbox, Monkey and the Drivers. Pick your OS and the software, DL install and enjoy. BTW follow the instruction and don't plug your X3L in (usb port not a hub) until prompted. -B
  23. You can always try my patent pending "slap and tickle" method of asking, but it only works 30 % of the time :blink: -B
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