BillBee

If you are using some hot pu's you might want to try the pad button on the UX2. I have been using Reaper so I did that with the active pu's - not sure about Sonar but I thought I toss that out there :) -B

Well its not unheard of Win7 and UXs having latency- my understanding was it was a driver issue but that was some years ago and wasn't really that bad. Have you tried any other DAW input product to see if the latency is only with the UX1? Be sure to check that you system has no issues (I am still running XP but I assume Win7 has a Device Manager where the ole "?"s pop up for system config hardware driver issues). I haven't used this program but had it BM'd maybe it will help. Read up on the docs first as I don't want you to screw up your system. http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml -B BTW Zap is not a fan of ASIO4ALL and he is right it is a last resort not a solution..... just saying :D

Hey there, You have to be more specific. :) Are we talking Pod 2 or a GX? Are the presets gone from the Pod or from your computer? Try saving one under a specific name say ToneABC and then run a search and see where it comes up on your PC. -B

Yep I sort of recall having to lower the gain settings as I mentioned above. Looks like it can't drop enough for your amp. If your amp's pre is pretty good you can always try using the X3 in the amps loop for FX only. Good luck however you decide to go! -B

Haaa haaa that's a good one. It is a L6 site :) Best advice is to try one if you can. Amp models and FX - YMMV dialing them in depends on your rig and ear. I've tried some awesome patches based on demos I've heard but then had to tweak them based upon my equipment/ear. There are more expensive modelers but IMHO the HD series is the best bang for the $ right now. -B

I had to explain this to our bass guy a few months back and you are asking about IMO one of the most useful effects. This thread is pretty good and saves me typing :) http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/55381 Here is a snippet: A common story to explain a compressor is something like: There's this little gremlin. His job is to listen to the music and turn down the volume when it gets too loud. The "Threshold" is how loud the volume has to be before a red light comes on and the Gremlin grabs the volume fader and brings it down. The "Ratio" is how much the Gremlin brings it down. The ratio is "how many decibels out:how many decibels in". So, a 1:1 ratio means that for every 1 db that comes in, the compressor lets 1 db out. A ratio of 4:1 means that for every 4 db that comes in, 1 db is let out. A ratio of 20:1 is the same, but this is considered a limiter. The "Attack" is how long it takes the Gremlin to see the red light, get off his chair, grab the slider and pull it down. Long attack times let the transient or peak of the audio through before lowering the volume. This can accent the "punch" of a sound by making the transient even bigger compared to the rest of the signal. A shorter attack time will eventually cut off the transient too-which is what a limiter would need to do. The "Release" is how long the Gremlin keeps the fader down after the audio gets quieter than the threshold, and the red light goes off. If the release is short, then the sound will pump more-meaning that the sound will get quieter on a peak and immediately louder again after the peak is over. A long release time means that some of the notes after will be lowered in volume still, even though they are below the threshold. Compressors often have a "gain" knob at the end. Keep in mind that Compression ONLY make things quieter. The gain knob is there to bring the sound back up in volume after you squished some of the peaks. Since you altered the peaks to make them quieter, the average level of the peaks is closer to the level of the quieter parts. Mountains are now hills. Turning up the gain makes the whole track louder overall. This makes the "sustain". The quiet parts that faded out are now louder and it makes the note seem like it lasts longer. That about sums up how they work. The differences in settings and types of compressors can have a big difference on the sound. For example, an Opto compressor (it literally uses a light bulb to trigger the compression) is slower than say a digital compressor to attack and release. This makes vocals sound pretty sweet. You can increase the punch of a bass or drum by using a slower attack but longer release. You can kill a transient with a high ratio, low attack setting. An Expander is basically the opposite. The controls are pretty much the same but instead of making the sound quieter, it makes the sound louder past the threshold.

I've used an old Zoom FP2 (?) which worked - real small footprint too (only one I had handy at the time for an X3L in test mode) :) -B

http://www.marshallamps.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/cabs-hbk2.pdf?d807be Stereo cab = two (speaker cable inputs) can be used at the same time. Mono - only 1 input is used so do not plug both in. The switch bridges the speakers from 8 ohms (per side 2x12) to 4 ohms (whole 4x12) total. Let me check the head specs Edit back -> took a brief look at some specs Run it in stereo for the 8 ohms rating. Going above the min 8 ohm range is fine but going below - ie 4 ohms - is not good. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/amplifiers/spider-ivspider-online/spider-i-ii-iii-iv-head-and-cabinet-and-conn-r477 Spider II/III/IV HD 150: - The stereo outputs of the Spider 150 HD Series are rated at 8 ohms per side. You will need to connect both outputs of the head to both the Spider cabinet inputs. Be sure to use two (2) speaker cables to connect your head to your cabinet to ensure you have the correct ohm load. Be Careful not to use instruement cables to make this connection. Using instrument cables can produce a lower output volume than expected when the master is set between 6 and 9 o'clock, with the master volume is between 9 and 12 o'clock your signal can become extremely distorted, with the master volume at 12 o'clock or higher you will loose output all together. Be aware that the Spider cabinet jacks will produce an impedance of 4 ohms (either left or right jacks) when a single cable is connected, which will damage the Spider 150 HD. -B

Try reducing the gain for either the send or return it is possible the signals being boosted. Try it in pre prior to the mods/delay. When working, my X3L, would crank the input signal with the 4CM in the loop - IIRC the above were the settings that tamed it. That could be it. -B

Hey Man! Good to hear to haven't pulled the plug yet! Were you ever able to try it on a PC with WinXP perferrably? You could at least see if its a Mac thing or the unit itself. Regards! Bill

You need to visit page 5-17 of the X3 Pilot's guide and go through the settings there. Obviously, over the web, its tough to really tell but assuming there are no ground loop/amp issues you really shouldn't be having that much hum/noise. You are using the noise gate, right ? :) Sorry had to ask. -B

I've heard its a pretty sweet combo but it does have the hiss you were talking about. http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/83929 That thread had some pretty good ideas. I've ran a few MFX into a Kustom Defender 5w (no loop) and 1x12 cab and yep it can sound pretty sweet pushing those tubes. -B Edit -> forgot to add: in the FX loop is where you should use the mods and delays with the Hd if you are using the amps drive channels.

Ahhhh Nico!!! Great memory but I will keep the HD500 away from screwdrivers, knives and reflashes! Hmmmm I could just add some pounds to me :) -Bill

Don't have one but the ones I've got my mitts on were pretty decent for a mass produced guitar. I would have thought high frets would cause buzzing and random dead spots on all strings (depends on the radius during bends too) not just on the 1st string. Unless the action was super high. Just saying.... -B

Yep still have it. Most of the labels have worn off and the pots are scratchy but it still sounds good - like a mini 2101. I do remember the pedal synth - that was the pitch harmonizer - I think. To be honest I would try to find a similar patch on Custom Tone and tweak it from there. I've not screwed around too deeply with the HD for the synth tones. There are some guys here who are awesome at it though so if you get stuck pop up a post and see what they say. -Bill

Thanks Brazzster! Still digging the Hallow-weenie tunes you put up. You've inspired me to start working on a few. -B

4 patches can go along way with the small footprint. Dist. Rhythm 1) Lead Boost 2) Clean Rhythm 3) Lead Boost Clean 4). The 2 button one is even smaller and works 1 up 1 down. I still love the Pod 2 as more as an effects unit than a modeler per se' everything fits in the gig bag and to the buddy's basement I head. :) -B

Just had to say Hi to a fellow Valve FX guy! Still love that chrome beast! Regards! Bill

Sorry it had to come to that. Be sure to report back on what the eventual outcome is. -B

Excellent Derek! With patience and practice alot of the "black box" mysteries are a simple parts replacement. Good Luck! B

L6 could have gone the route of DT and others and let the user assign the pressure needed to activate the switch. Its a little thing and not a deal breaker but still. -B

Here are the manuals. Like I said before no Spider iv here (or FBV Mk II) but you can always make a copy of the patch with the boost in it and switch to that patch then back when the lead work is through (usually what I do) and I have a pair of hooves too :) http://line6.com/support/manuals/spideriv75 -B

No I wouldn't recommend flashing unless you have more problems, it is more than likely you have to screw around with the settings (line level and such), it should be no different than putting a few pedal in your amp's loop. -B

Have you tried reflashing with a different USB cable? Sometimes that is the problem. If you have a spare pc I would try it on that as well. -B Edit: From what I searched out it does read like a bad flash which is the same as having corrupt software on a pc. Don't pay attention to the flash # its the steps that are important for a safe mode flash. 2 things to remember - power supply and usb cable. Both if faulty can cause issues too. These are things to try prior to putting a support ticket in. If any thing does not work like - the global reset, calibration be sure to list them with your system specs. --------------------------------------------- The complete thread is here: http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/77912 <quote> I would suggest that you update to the latest version of POD HD500 Edit 1.0.6 that is designed to work with the updated 1.40 flash memory update. It can be downloaded from the link below: POD HD500 Edit 1.0.6 Windows: http://line6.com/software/readeula.html?rid=4373 After updating to the latest version of Edit, use it to back up your presets. After backing up your presets, power the POD off and disconnect it from the USB. Press and hold the down arrow key and power the POD back up to put it into safe mode, once the POD boots the display will read 'safe mode'. Reconnect the USB cable, launch the latest version of Monkey 1.43 and reinstall the latest 1.40 flash memory. After installing the flash memory, perform a global reset using the instructions at the link below: http://line6.com/support/docs/DOC-2222

More than likely you have a few issues going on: cables, improper settings (line settings) or a ground loop. My old X3L (rip) was great in the fx loop (of a combo or head) and I got some sounds out of it. Here is a link to a great ext page with a diagram (be sure to scan the comments for more info: http://www.benvesco.com/blog/pod-x3-live-tips-and-tricks/2008/pod-xt-x3-live-tips-and-tricks-four-cable-method/ -B