pianoguyy

I have a set of EONs which are out of your price range. But any PA type set will work. I also have an old Peavey KB model which you can afford. You would need to buy 2 of them for stereo, which should still be in your price range (Aussie money may differ) if you can find two of the same model.

to get the most out of a modeler, don't use a guitar amp the modeler provides guitar amp/cap/mic tone, you don't want to put virtual tone on top of physical tone you said the word "clean" but don't confuse a guitar amp's clean tone with the type of clean you need. you actually need a clear tone. So, instead of buying any of what you listed.... Buy a flat system, such as one would use for listening to music (i.e. a commercially available cd). A PA system. A keyboard amp. Studio monitors.

I misread what you said. Ignore everything I said in those other posts if you read them before I deleted them.

i would use two 1/4" jacks, even if one is a dummy plug

possible - absolutely in addition to everything said above.... you can run both sets of output jacks at the same time. but you can't separate them. meaning - they are receiving the same signal. you can separate left and right, you can't separate 1/4" and xlr where I differ than the thoughts posted above: don't try using different output modes. if you are new, and are designing patches from scratch, use studio/direct. if you already have patches made, use whatever output mode they were designed in.

That's great that you forgot. But a new user (who isn't being guided by his experienced friend) needs to read the OM. Otherwise they come back asking why their Windows 98, Chromebook, or Android phone isn't working. Or they plug into a usb hub, or they install drivers with the device plugged in (which is only relevant if this is one of those devices that needs to be unplugged while installing, I don't remember). All of that is explained in the OM. Also explained in the OM - The license manager isn't needed unless you need the license manager (those "model pack deals" only apply to new units bought in the US.). And Monkey will download EDIT for you, no need to download it first/separately. Some people may need the Variax software, others do not. It's all in there.

Yes, I was absolutely discussing the "hidden" settings that would change the audible tone of every patch. As part of my job with Evil Corp, I maintain way too many patches in the archive. It is not feasible to try to edit them all to accommodate a setting change. If I was, as example, "in a band". And we used one sound, the same as every band has "one sound", that would be different. But one day I am working with Lady Popenstein, the next day Lil Rapdiva, followed by a session with Jimmy Rocker who got my name from when I worked with Nunmore Metal. And then I still find time to play outside of work. *names changed to protect the hedonistic

well, ok, now that you have gotten that taken care of... use the misfortune of starting over as an opportunity to start over - but this time, you do it with all of the knowledge you have gained from when the machine was new to you. Take me for example - I am a full time professional musician. Had I known then what I know now, I would have used different global settings. But, because I am 6 years (and 11 days, to be exact) into the machines, I cannot redesign all of my patches to accommodate a change of settings. Maybe an amateur or hobbyist or weekend warrior could do it, but not in the position I am in. So, instead, I am stuck designing new patches around the settings used in the old patches when I didn't know any better. *also, it is possible that your exp pedal may have stop working. if it has, you will need to do a global reset and then recalibrate the pedal.

1. did you actually send them to the unit, or were they all edits in the queue? 2. like all computer files, you should have a backup and a backup of the backup, and a 3rd party cloud backup for when your 3 copies fail. 3. to get back the factory presets, you can flash the firmware 4. have you tried unplugging the unit from the usb and then turning the unit on? it is probably too late for that because it seems like you already sync'd. but in the future, that will probably help.

lol do you really think there is going to be new firmware for a product that was released over a decade ago?

not only are there companies that allow you to download individual models, there are also companies that allow you to record/make your own

1. it is listed in the owner's manual. 2. you need the stuff that it says you need in the owner's manual.

No kidding, it is missing a lot of features. For that matter, so is the Helix LT. If you want all of the features, you have to buy the big one. Perhaps you are confusing the word Pod with HD.

ultimately, it is trial and error twist the knobs until it sounds good

Yes, but the point is - pad/normal will change the tone even if using the same listening device. As will Guitar In-Z.

Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to buy an extension cord?

Gee whiz. If only I didn't already have fully functional gear that does everything I need it to do. ---- plus my boycott of all things Yamaha.

This IS a Helix of this size. Or did you not read the description?

If you want to set it and forget it, the one size solution is ..... Turn it off. Don't use it. Forget that it is there. These people that talk about "noise removal" - each amp/cab/mic model gives a different frequency which needs removed. Therefore, there is no single GEQ setting that works. Sure, if you intend on using one amp/cab/mic model from here on out, it will work. But not if you bought the machine for variety. However, like everything else - If you set it somewhere today, at the beginning of our usage. You can build tone around it. I mean, it doesn't even matter what you set it at. Set it at the ugliest possible spot - you can still make patches sound great. Plus, as previously mentioned - it doesn't work on all outputs. Therefore, you could find yourself in a heap trouble depending on how you intend on using it.

is it going to change the tone if I design patches one way and then perform another way any change in gear or settings will change tone. but these aren't going to change tone the way others do. the 1/4" out - line/amp will change tone because you are going from an amp to a pa. but it isn't going to change the tone that they receive. it is simply because some devices want a different input than others. I know this is a bad way to explain it, but think of it as a volume switch. The CD player is still playing the same music, but the volume will be a tad bit louder. So, let's say you went from a small personal pa system with it set to amp to a professional pa system with it set to line, the tone you hear would be the same because of the "sameness" of the two systems even though you flipped the switch. and the same with the stomp/line switch depending on what you are "looping" it will drastically change your tone. But if you are just using it as an extra output/input, it won't change anything other than 'volume'.

stereo isn't a simple +/- question please tell us more about what you are doing

that's interesting. the way they claim, it shouldn't happen when it is within X units. Which just goes to show you (not you, all of the other posters), when people ask about the difference between the 500 and the 500x, you shouldn't use DSP as an example. 1. make sure you are updated to the latest software. in order to fit some of the latest changes, they needed to "optimize" existing code. it is possible that "effect x" is using higher levels because it lacks the newly optimized code. 2. are there model packs required for the tone. if you do not have the model pack, a substitute amp is used. different amp = different dsp 3. global settings. i don't know if global settings would make a difference, but in theory it could. so, if they are different than the designer.... and when all that doesn't work.... open EDIT in offline mode. open the file. look at it. find something you don't need - remove it. save the file. close EDIT. let me repeat that - CLOSE EDIT bad things happen to people who try to go online from offline. close the damn program. open EDIT in online mode.

truth is, that could be something as simple as two layers of screen touching, which causes a light refraction. think of your phone - when you first put the screen protector on. how it looks like a puddle of water expanding across your screen. It is such a "i didn't know that" issue, years ago i had taken one of my old flip phones to the store wondering what this bubble is and why it just randomly appeared.... they told me it was water damage. i told them to f'off. but at home, i used a hair dryer on the phone, and it did make the bubble disappear - temporarily. it was another, more educated, agent that told me it that the two screen layers touching. but it could be something serious. another story - going back like 20 years, when Roland first came out with touch screens on their units - they had given me one as an advance unit. The backlight lasted a very short time, like days. And then, months later, they had this big unveiling party and they said they waited to put out touch screens because they wanted them to be reliable. When they added "our touch screens won't go bad", I just busted out laughing. As I was on my 3rd device before the unit was even available to the general public.

since it is new - return it. let them figure it out.

what?