phil_m

It's not all that uncommon. I found a few videos showing a few methods just with a quick search. There are a few different ways to go about it with larger screws, but with a small screw like this, you're probably looking at something like this:

I second a vote for using the battery. If you're worried about being too dependent on a single battery, just buy a second one. I've played dozens of gigs with my JTV-69 using the battery, and it's been fine. The life on the batteries is long enough that if you have a fully charged one ready to go at the gig, you should be golden.

First off, what device are you trying to use?

Um, neither... They're mic level, which is actually usually a little lower than instrument level, although, really, there's no exact specification for what instrument level or mic level is. Generally speaking, mic level is about -30dBu and instrument level is about -20dBu. However, if you crank the master volume on the X3L, the XLR outs can get pretty hot. Personally, I'd probably try the instrument level setting on your interface first. But on the other hand, if the line level setting works, and you're getting a strong enough signal from the X3L, you should be fine. Really, the main thing is to have a level that's not too low and not too high. I generally try to record with a signal that's between -12 and -6dB.

I think the first one fixed it, too. It seems like the problem was reintroduced in the last update. I imagine it's possible that few lines of code from before the original fix found their way back into the newer firmware.

I don't think anyone intentionally deleted the poll. I think that there may have been some updating or other issue with the forum software yesterday evening. I know I wasn't able to log on at all from about 5:00 PM through the rest of the night. So I would not be surprised if it got lost in the shuffle somewhere. And actually this thread was the last new thread I saw before not being able to log on. So, I don't know. I'd say just start a new poll.

I had to listen to your clip with headphones to hear what you're talking about, but I do hear it. Do you have the noise gate on at all? Other than that, how do you have the M13 connected? Are you plugging your guitar into the M13 and then going into the amp, or do you have the M13 in an effects loop? If you have it in an effects loop, it is possible to clip the input of the M13.

I should have asked what interface you're using... So what are you using as an interface?

Try using this program instead: http://www.bome.com/products/sendsx Also, make sure you have your MIDI cable(s) connected in the right way. The cable from your adapter's OUT goes into the M13's IN. Also, you don't need the second cable. You only need the M13 to receive data.

The app just reads your iTunes library, so it will reflect whatever tracks you have there. The app can only play songs that actually reside on your device's drive, though, So if you're using iTunes Match, you won't be able to play songs through the app unless you've actually downloaded to your device.

It will work... You just have to put everything else in front of the amp block. I got it to work on the app.

You can't move those blocks, but their position in the chain changes based on where you have the things you can move. So if you want them at the end of the chain, you'd move the blocks for Mod, Delay, and Reverb before them. To move block, you just tap them and drag them.

I'm not sure how you're using the terms "latency" and "dropout". To me, in this context they both mean the same thing. Are you thinking of them as different things in some way? But if you want to go from a clean to an overdriven tone, you could do that a number of ways. One way would be going to another preset. Another way would be using a dual amp setup within a patch if you have enough DSP available to make it work. The other way would be to use an overdrive effect in the preset. The basic thing is that there is a small gap when switching presets. Anything you do within the preset will not have that gap.

There's a small gap when changing presets, but I think in a transition from a verse to a chorus, it would work OK. I think someone measured it here before. I'm not sure what it was. It's pretty small.

I haven't noticed this noise, although it would be rare that I actually change presets and guitar models during the middle of a song. But I've used my JTV69 with updated firmware and the HD500 live and at practice ever since doing the update, and never had any issue.

He needs to record the audio some other way than through the camera mic. The unplugged sound of the strings is just about as loud as the sound of the modelers coming through the monitors... One of my pet peeves with gear demos!

Updating a POD HD is so easy, even a caveman could do it... I wouldn't worry about it. But the post above is correct - no MIDI cable is needed. It's just plain ol' USB.

It sounds like you have the HD Pro in "FS 5-8" mode rather than "ABCD" mode. If you want to be able to switch presets immediately, you'll want to be in "ABCD" mode. This can be selected on Page 1 of the Setup menu.

Btw, I moved this thread to the POD HD forum since it's talking specifically about the HD500X.

The max output listed for the Sanyo Pedal Juice product is 2000mA. The HD500X's power supply is rated at 2500mA. The HD500X doesn't draw that much continuously. I'm not sure what it's average draw is. I'd venture to guess somewhere between 60-80% of the 2500mA rating. So I'd say the Sanyo product might work to power the HD500X for a little while, but not for too long. Sanyo claims that it can power a 1000mA load for two hours. So, you'd probably be looking at an hour or less with the HD500X if it even worked at all. You'd probably be better off with one of the portable power pack solutions, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-DRPP300-Powerpack-300-Watt-Emergency/dp/B009YR00L4/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1396454097&sr=8-16&keywords=duracell+inverter

No, there isn't a way to do either... I wish there were, though. The one thing you can do is an existing preset as the starting point for a new one by copying and pasting it from one location to another.

I'll take "Comments completely unrelated to the original post" for $1,000, Alex"...

I don't know... I think the newer VDI cables aren't too bad. I got two last year, and they seem fine to me. They are more flexible than the old one I had, for sure. I think they're getting them from a different vendor now.

LEDs themselves don't really burn out... They slowly fade away. But, for LED used in light fixtures, the useful life is now up around 100,000 hours. And by useful, that means when they're at 70% of their original output. For LED used solely as indicators, I imagine the life would be much greater than that. As far as blinking goes, LEDs actually "like" to be switched on and off. It doesn't affect their life negatively at all. It actually extends it. The electronics in the rest of the equipment are way more likely to fail before a LED dies. I actually work in the lighting industry, and LEDs are essentially the present and future of that industry, so I have learned way more than anyone needs to know about LEDs in the last five years or so!

One thing is that the Android market, even though it's bigger overall, is a lot more fragmented as far as the variety of devices. You have the Amazon Kindles and Barnes and Nobel Nooks, for instance... Though some people are probably using those more as tablets, a lot of those users probably aren't going to be the typical audio user. I just think that there probably is a big portion of the musician market that prefers iOS. All that said, it would be nice if Line 6 were able to do something for the Android market. I'm not in the position to guess whether or not they will or not, though.