silverhead

Are you recording using a mic or direct from the Taylor’s 1/4” output? Have you followed the guidance in the thread above your post? Does your Taylor have an on-board preamp?

Two things: - make sure you assign the desired parameter (in this case the Drive level) to the Snapshot controller. To do this, push and rotate the parameter knob. The value will then appear in white brackets indicating that the assignment has been made. - In Global settings you will find a parameter that controls whether or not Snapshot changes are saved or discarded when you switch snapshots before saving the preset. Make sure you understand how this works and set it to your preference.

Just curious… After updating the firmware (which resets the Globals to default values) did you restore the Globals to your pre-update settings using the backup file created during the update? I ask because if you didn’t you may soon find other issues related to a change in the Globals. It’s always good practice to restore your custom Global settings after an update.

Yes. The number of blocks was increased from 6 to 8 as of Firmware v 3.01 released 12/4/20. (See Release Notes in Downloads section)

Who are 'they'? If not an authorized Line 6 service center I suggest you open a support ticket to deal directly with Line 6 Support.

Not sure that's true. Do you have any specific information supporting that opinion or are you just speculating?

The Canadian supplier for Line 6 is Long & McQuade. You may be able to order the part through them.

Did you purchase the Helix Native plugin? It’s completely separate from your Helix LT, though the presets are compatible and you will receive a discount as a Helix LT owner. You may need to configure Ableton’s audio properties to have it recognize your Helix LT device.

Try setting the knobs to either the min or max position rather than 12 o’clock. This makes them less susceptible to jitter, which is the likely cause of your problem. When dirty the knobs can interpret minor vibrations from the floor (jitters) as knob movement. This is, indeed, a common circumstance as the equipment ages. The combination of cleaning the knobs (by rapid rotation and/or with appropriate cleaning fluid) and parking them at min or max generally resolves the problem.

If you haven’t previously saved the factory setlist (folder) you will need to reinstall the firmware to restore it. This will restore all Factory setlists and will also delete all User setlists, so make sure you backup anything you want to keep before reinstalling the firmware. Or, you could ask someone who does have a backup of that factory setlist if they would be kind enough to send it to you. You could then Import it using the editor.

Thanks.

@codamedia: I’ve tried that before but got hung up on levels. For instance, if the Vol is active and the pedal position is at some mid-point value less than 100% you have to increase the Vol level to 100% in order to engage the toe switch to activate the Wah. The same is true when going from Wah back to Vol. How do you handle this, or do you not find it problematic?

If you already have a Variax guitar you can also use the Vol and Tone knobs as additional expression controllers.

Also, perhaps the fact that your two days was a weekend is relevant.

Connect your speakers to the Pod HD audio outputs. As you say, the POD is the computer’s soundcard when connected via usb. The PC-generated sounds (Spotify etc.) will also be directed through the Pod and hence to the speakers. If this doesn’t happen automatically you may have to manually configure your PC to use the Pod as its audio device.

Have you tried your local used musical equipment consignment stores? See what, if anything, they will offer you for it.

I entered the phrase “Line 6 Flextone XL 100 Watt Stereo“ into Google and got some results worldwide. That’s likely the best indicator you will get. For instance, here’s something in Belgium: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiEjpCumZP0AhUglGoFHQQVBv8QFnoECAwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Freverb.com%2Fca%2Fp%2Fline-6-flextone-ii-xl-100-watt-stereo-2x12-guitar-combo&usg=AOvVaw35N_p4TYXSP5BjGCZtaBbS Maybe there’s someone living down the street from you who has been waiting to get their hands on exactly this amp for the last 10 years. That would be great for you, but it ain’t likely. Take an average of the prices you see online worldwide, factor in any product difference like Flextone III vs yours, convert to $Cdn, and start there. If local advertising doesn’t work you may have to expand your target market. The good news is there seems to be a very limited worldwide supply of this vintage product. The bad news is there’s virtually no demand. It’s not a hot item, so it may take awhile and you may never get an offer you think is reasonable. Good luck.

I think a quick search of online marketplaces would be the best comparison. Prices will vary by location. If there’s nothing local to you, extrapolate from other locations and currencies. In the end, of course, it is worth exactly what someone is willing to pay for it regardless of any current asking price, or what someone here may think it’s worth.

Two things going on here, I think: 1) An FRFR solution with an amp/FX modeler will never sound like the 'amp in the room'. True by definition with any modeler from any manufacturer. 2) The X3L is more than 10 yrs old. It just doesn't have good dynamic response to the string-digging. Helix is much better in that regard.

Do you have the desired parameters of the FX block(s) assigned to the Snapshot controller?

Yes you can do what you describe. Make sure your Firehawk preset does not use any mic/cab block. Check the specs for the Spider amp’s Line In jack and set the Firehawk output level accordingly (Instrument vs. Line level). As mentioned earlier, the Firehawk switches will not control the Spider amp in any way.

I should have been more specific. By 'nearby' I mean within several feet. Assuming your mixer/router is more than10 feet from your PGW you should be fine.

Do you have a 1/4 cable connected to the guitar's jack? This is needed to turn on the battery to activate the guitar's electronics.

You could download and install the free trial version of Helix Native. You can set its Hardware Compatibility mode to HX Stomp and then experiment to see what sort of presets it can and can’t handle.

Your original question was about getting a good sound using the two devices, and that was the focus of my answer. I didn’t discuss what is perhaps the most important way in which the Firehawk device is NOT a replacement for your FBV device. The FBV has one job: communicate with the Spider amp and allow you to control it using your feet. When you press a switch on the FBV it will send a control signal to the Spider amp which results in a change in the settings of the amp, e.g. a preset or channel change. Presumably, that’s an important part of what you want to replace, and what you want the Firehawk device to do. But the Firehawk is not capable of doing that. It does not communicate with the Spider amp and cannot control it any way. Any switches or buttons you push on the Firehawk will ONLY affect the audio signal that is sent through its outputs to the amp’s input jack. It will not affect any settings on the amp.