psarkissian

If it's what I think it is, return it to where you got it and exchange it for another one.

Sure thing.

There is a prompt during the update, asking if you want to save patches to the updated version of Flash. Version 2.00 and beyond works fine, it's updating from v1.8x that is a problem. And unless you have had serviced and had a main board replaced, you will have one of the earlier version main boards, so that can complicate thins further with updates to and from v1.8x.

There's about four reasons that can happen, loose connection, intermittent solder point that sort of thing. And if it's been 20 to 24 months, then it's probably time for tube replacement. The solution is that it's time to go in for a service check and/or any repairs,... from an authorized service center that knows the insides of these.

There is no version 1.18 Flash for JTV's, do you mean v1.81? Stay away from the v1.8x Flash versions, they work fine, but there can be problems updating from it. Version notes are at the bottom of the update window in Monkey when you select a Flash version.

Nice.

Mr Dragon is right, we could get into a really long talk over this one. Having worked with, and at Harman,... HiFi gear is not something to play instruments thru, such gear isn't designed or meant for that. The signal amplitudes and impedances are all wrong for that kind of mixed mis-match of gear. So in the end, it sound bad at the output. Don't do that. A small 15 to 20 Watt guitar amp should do fine.

Don't go there, if it's a re-boot problem it will be both hardware and software glitch. A tech trained at Line 6 gear should deal with it. Being from Encino and a Valley Dude, I sometimes wonder if Jeff Spicoli was modeled after me. Picture him with darker bushy hair and you have me. Same outfit and all. Though I didn't hang with Mick and the Stones like Spicoli, I did crew for Iron Butterfly (and their two spin-off bands) for four years. Gold front, hmmm,... what's the serial number? Found it. Yeah, have it done by an authorized service tech. When it does that, it's not a user fixable thing.

Just checked, none left, all long gone. Sorry.

Should be in Workbench HD.

All the way down can be, almost, as bad as too close. It's about finding that sweet spot.

In many cases CAT6 would be fine. It's mainly a matter of applications and the data rate or bandwidth one is operating in. So CAT5/5e is what's used for our products. No worries, most people forget that fact, easy oversight. Had a guy come in with 500 Pro Rack and an FBV MkII board and had nothing but problems, as soon as I swapped out his CAT6 for the CAT5e that comes with FBV's,.... all the problems went away, worked great ever since. For example CAT7 for 600MHz, would be overkill and so way outside any data rate we would use, as to filter out any frequency band we would use, because it's so low for CAT7. I go over this every year at the trade shows and audio engineer conventions with my pal Steve Lampen at Belden Cable. He keeps me up to date on this stuff, and also writes books on this, check them out on amazon.com, they're very informative, details even I've forgotten til he reminded me.

Fret the highest note, lo-E side 3mm, hi-E side 2mm.

I might know who's that was. I serviced that one once, former L6 person. Nice to know it's still out there.

Don't use CAT6, it's the wrong frequency band. Use CAT5 or CAT5e. Taking the coffin apart is ill advised, unless you have serious experience with this stuff, and an anti-static mat set-up to do this. Pro Audio Clinic, 73-1270 Kaiminani Dr Suite B-1, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 An older product like that will probably have oxidized solder points by now. Leave to someone with a proper set-up for doing this.

You have an impedance mis-match, it wasn't designed for that. It's why you're only getting 70% volume.

It will sound different in a different body. The programming is optimized for the guitars they were designed for. These are unsupported modifications, if this gets messed up, I won't be able to fix it. Therefore you do this at your own risk. I've done my share of mods, customizations and transplants. Not recommended for the inexperienced.

Too close or too far,.... it's all on how mag field is and how the string cuts the field. It's all about finding that happy spot. warbling occurs with normal mag guitars as well, but with the modeling engaged, the warbling can be amplified and stand out. The pick-ups are off, but the magnetic field isn't. Guitar set-up is all about balance of tensions and parameters, and subtle adjustments are are the difference between spot-on and almost. And as the old saying goes, "almost only counts with horseshoes, hand grenades and hang gliders". It's like a set-up for a normal guitar, but with a few adding twists to be aware of because of having both piezos and magnetics. Extra stuff to be aware of.

Just be aware that this would void any warranty, being an unsupported modification. If one of these were to come across my repair bench, chances are I would have to send it back untouched. Since it is an unsupported modification, the same might be the case for our authorized service centers. This would be a,... proceed at your own risk.

@ pol2711,... you might want to submit that to Idea Scale. It does work, it's how the Helix was created.

Clean tone with a slight Chorus effect is the default, turn the effects up slightly, then down all the way. Should be something in the manual about that.

Set-up adjustments if I recall. Couple of other tweaks. Don't go adjusting things on your own. Adjusting the pick-up height incorrectly can result in warbling when in model mode, and sounds worse when using Alt Tune. The set-up needs to be spot on for your geographic location and climate. Local climate, temperature and humidity can affect the set-up. Also be aware of something called "dual tone effect". It's when you hear the string in standard tuning, and the signal from the amp in Alt Tune,... at the same time. Result is a clash of pitches. When you turn the amp up or use headphones, you hear less of the string and more of the amp signal.

"12AX7B China" --- is typically from China that we use. But you can also get the Sovtek/EH versions. EH's are Sovteks that go through more scrutiny. And since EH owns th Sovtek factory, it's all the same company. Some of our China "B"s are sourced through either EH or another source (maybe Ruby Tubes, I forget who).

I know there are ways. Always curious to see where some of these Betas end up. I can better track any service histories that way, to better serve and maintain the product. Never saw the movie, but was acquainted with Beau Bridges for a brief time. Did some audio work for him and a friend, a number of years back.