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If you happen to like a particular factory preset (I liked the Texas Flood one myself) save it to one of your user setlists and make sure it gets backed up with all your other presets before firmware updates. I saved that one, and renamed it, so it stays backed up with all my others.

You can also put in one amp/cab/effects per path (1 and 2) and both of them going to the multi output. It's like playing through two separate rigs simultaneously. You don't have to connect them super serially if you don't want.

I think (not 100% certain) you have to use a dummy plug in the front end of most Blackstar tube amps. I had to do it on my HT Studio 20, and have heard same thing on other HT and Artisan series.

Sounds like the display failed. I believe the warranty from Line 6 is 1 year. Open a support ticket with Line 6.

I've had mine for almost a year, and I am still tweaking things here and there, finding new combinations of effects and signal paths. You cannot measure the ability of the Helix in just one day. Lots of people go into Helix with the misconception that you will just plug in and it will be marvelous. That is not the case. However, its design makes it very easy to get around and adjust things as needed.

I second that motion

That effect has a little more than just delay going on. There is reverb and some chorusing effect as well. Helix has a multitap delay, but you may get closer running a couple of delays in parallel with also some particle and octo reverbs in there somewhere. I get a similar sound running 3 delays in series with the particle, octo, cave reverbs in series on a parallel path with the delays. I run those on my wet path.

If I could write some code that would output 5VDC and a few milliamps of current, I would probably work for.....Line 6. Then I could just play with Helix all day and get paid for it.

It would have been a perfect way of powering the G10 wireless, but it doesn't.

Hey if it works for you, USE IT! If it doesn't work for you, DON'T use it. There are lots of options out there for everyone.

Plugging a device (iPhone, iPad, PC, Mac, etc) into USB comes in on USB 1/2 in. You go to Global settings>ins outs> and adjust the level there. I use USB with my iPhone all the time for practicing along with pre-recorded audio. iPhone/iPad require an adapter though.

^This^ Helix is an interface, so you don't need an additional interface in between. Helix has 8 out/8 in via usb.

I believe it is like a crossfade between the two paths. It can go from 100% A to 50/50 A/B to 100%B.

You have to assign the Wah to a specific expression pedal. The onboard expression is EXP1 and EXP2. If your wah is assigned to EXP1 (by default), then you have the click in the expression pedals toe switch to switch it to EXP1. It is usually on EXP2 by default.

Yes, piece of cake. You may even find yourself not using your amp any more once you hear the Helix.

Ah, gotcha. I usually run a split after the amp model with an IR as a "dry" then a cab block on my "wet" split. If you are just running an IR, you don't need a cab block. The IR takes the place of the cab model.

Not sure what you mean by "some have a bit of the IR sound". An IR in Helix is just a substitution (in .wav file format) for the native cabinet blocks. Actually, the native cabinet blocks are IRs, just with some added flexibility with the parameters.

My first bit of advise is be careful about chasing a very particular tone on any particular recording. It can lead to a black hole of negligible returns. My second is try to find what his rig consisted of (some of which are not in the Helix) and simulate the same signal path. That will get you 90% there, which is close enough in my book.

Maybe the issue is that you ARE using the OSX drivers. I never use the drivers and have never had an issue with audio degradation like you explain. Running latest OSX and reamped within Reaper and the included Garageband app.

They are just so darned easy to use, I'll deal with any issues that come up with mine. As long as they keep replacing under warranty, then I don't care. I spent $180 originally. If I go through 6 units, then I got a heck of a deal to get 6 brand new units for $180 (yes, that was a joke, for the most part). Maybe they'll fix it, maybe they won't. If mine fails and I don't want to return it, I'll do the 9VDC conversion and be done with it.

1000 watts may sound like a lot, but it really isn't in PA amplified speaker world. Watts to SPL ratio is much different with PA amplification as compared to tube guitar amplifiers. Apples and Oranges.

OOOOOoooohhh, I like this option if it works.... 10 stomps AND 8 snaps...

^EXACTLY THIS^ Distortion/Overdriven amp/preamp circuits are designed to "fizz" or "sizzle". The sizzle it what gives the Mesa Rectifier series their distinct sound. You hear those distinct attributes in Helix very well because of they way they are being modeled: they model discrete circuit elements, and not just the end resultant signal.

Is your Yamaha speaker plugged into a circuit in your home that has CFL or dimming LED bulbs? Sounds like you may be getting some noise on the power side of your speaker.

^this^ You can also hold FS1 and FS7 down at the same time and toggle the up/down functionality to bank, preset, snapshot up/down.