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radatats

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Everything posted by radatats

  1. You can set it for level or pretty much any angle you want and you can adjust the height too. Set your 2X12 on it horizontally, not vertically and you will be fine. It works for me... Here is a pic of mine with my combo at the moment but it holds my 2X12 and head just fine... https://www.cx.com/0/io/hotlink/ZLKLtbLuEeOiziICCiuDbg/DSC00492.JPG
  2. I started this thread a while back on this same subject... http://line6.com/support/topic/5664-line-6-seen-on-stage/
  3. of course. Click and drag any block pretty much anywhere you want it. To split and make a dual path just drag the amp block to the top path and it will add a second amp on the bottom path for you. To go back to single path drag either amp block back to the pre section.
  4. I have done both and haven't found a big difference except centered raises the volume a bit. Either is fine since it all goes to mono at the amp anyways... Try them both, maybe with certain effects one is more useful than the other...
  5. Yes! Absolutely... 4CM-4 - put all your dist-comp-eq in channel B (the bottom path), that signal goes out the Right jack to the amp guitar in. The amp FX Send comes back in the POD at the Aux jack and feeds channel A (the top path). Put all your mods-delays-reverbs up there and that signal goes out the Left jack to the amp's FX Return and feeds the power section. 4CM-5 - acts like a regular POD patch except EVERYTHING stay on channel A (the top path). put all your dist-comp-eq first before the amp block (you can choose a pre model or a full model whatever sounds best) and all your mods-delays-reverbs after the amp block. NOTHING goes in the bottom path and the mixer stays muted for channel B. The whole signal goes out the Left jack straight to the amp's FX Return and feeds the power section. Start with the POD master at 1/2 or less and your amp Master or volume low. You will need to play around with the mixer levels/Master levels until you get the right combination to feed your amp without totally overdriving it. The POD Master controls the signal level to BOTH the amp's pre and power sections but you can fine tune it with the mixer levels. Try to get your levels similar to where they are with just pluggin in a guitar. Does that make sense? Anyways, once you have it set, save it as a new patch and use it as a template for your future creations. Now to change from amp pre to POD pre you will have to change patches instead of turning the FX block on and off. No big deal especially since the FX block is a pain in the butt anyways... Hope that helps, let me know how it works for you!
  6. I use a On-Stage Stands RS7705 Pro Tiltback Amp Stand but there are plenty of others... http://www.sweetwater.com/c628--Guitar_Amp_Stands
  7. nope... you can only edit those things that are visible in the GUI...
  8. Page 4 of JTV Pilot's Guide: 3. Guitar Model Selector - Push in this knob (LED is lit) to access any of the 10 Variax guitar model banks or one of two user definable custom model banks. When in Variax mode the Guitar Model Selector LED will illuminate the active guitar model bank. There are actually 5 models per bank, as defined by the Selector Switch position. Press this knob again (LED is not lit) to use the magnetic pickups.
  9. Following up on my previous work with 4CM without using the POD FX loop, I really like this method. I get to use all my FX blocks and there are no noise issues or signal drops as with the FX loop. This link is for using your amp's pre section: http://line6.com/customtone/tone/274440/ (put pre FX in channel B, post FX in channel A) This link is for using the POD internal amps: http://line6.com/customtone/tone/277915/ (put everything in channel A only, channel B is muted) - I made this for Variax but if you change Variax to Guitar it should work just fine. - You will have to play with the mixer levels to balance with your particular amp! - Be sure input is set to Preset not Global!
  10. So my question to you is really why are you considering the change? Is it for ease of setup and use? Is it to have hundreds of configurations available at the touch of a footswitch? If so, those are great reasons to go HD500X and DT25/50. The next question is what size venue do you typically play in and what style of music? Do you plan on using the amp as a feed to the FOH? as a backline? If you are feeding the PA/FOH you may be just fine with the 25 in small to mid size gigs even with a loud band. I assume you will keep the 2X12? The 25 will be surprisingly loud with a good 2X12 cab. The 50 obviously will be louder and probably more clean headroom. There is the basic tone difference between EL84 and EL34 too... Other than that they will do the exact same thing. Do you plan on getting a JTV Variax? If so then you should definitely consider the change as that opens up a world of possibilities. However, be prepared for a steep learning curve during the transition... Well worth it in my opinion... If you can answer these questions clearly then the dream rig should be a good fit for you. If not, well, as others have already said, you still have a great rig there...
  11. I have the DT25 head and a 2X12 cab. I also have 1X12 50W tube combo and a Velocity 300 SS power amp into a pair of passive monitors. I keep my HD500 set to Studio Direct for the SS and the combo (4CM) but it automatically switches to Stack Power Amp as soon as the DT kicks on by L6 link. From my experience, you have no coice when using L6 link. It will configure the output based on what it is connected to, DT combo or head or even L series speakers. I have some awesome tones for the SS rig and some awesome tones for the DT but they are very different in their construction. So far for the combo I have only been using effects so keeping it in Studio Direct has been fine. I plan on playing around with it this week to see how the internal amp models sound and will try the other output modes and EQ adjustments. When you consider there are two modes for combo and 2 for stack along with direct, that is more than enough to choose from when trying to build a tone. If I can't make it work with all these options and the other EQ's, FX and amp models, well I may as well start playing the drums...
  12. does it matter? do you own one? Google the manual for it and you will probably be able to figure it out a lot quicker than posting here... :blink:
  13. This is what I am talking about. All these apps are for iOS: Guitar - Ampkit+, Amplitube, DigiTech iStomp, StompBox, Taylor EQ, iAmGuitar, Bias, Jammit (Line6) Recording - Audiobus, FourTrack, Overdub, GarageBand, MultiTrack DAW, StudioTrack There is virtually nothing similar for Android. Mostly chord finders, tuners and tab readers. Nothing remotely as polished or usable as the iOS products. There has to be a deeper reason that we are not realizing here. If there was a way to tap into that huge Android market, don't you think someone would already have written that killer app? Line 6 has plenty of hardware that already supports iOS but nothing for Android and they are integrated with Jammit too, also iOS. Nope, there won't be anything decent coming for Android so if you want to go down this road, you will have to suck it up and buy Apple products... Of course, usual disclaimer, my opinion only...
  14. now one would think this might be a perfect place for a product specialist to pipe in and give us the real factory details... (face palm) what was I thinking? LOL...
  15. yup, or restate blatantly obvious stuff without providing any useful new information and then casually steer you towards purchasing new gear... but by all means follow them on twitter to keep up with the latest news!
  16. There will be no Android app. That's right, I said it. There are no usable guitar modelers or recording software for Android from any companies and there must be a reason. Maybe it has to do with the open source structure. Maybe it has to do with the pay for delivery model through Apple. Maybe there is a fundamental problem with Android architecture, I don't know. Line 6 has a history of gear for iOS but nothing for Android as does many other companies. I have no inside scoop here but I don't believe there is any Android app or hardware coming period. Don't hold your breath for it, don't base any decisions on the possibility of a future release... Of course, usual disclaimer, my opinion only...
  17. Take your 3 cables that will run to the amp and zip tie them together every 6 " so they act like one cable. Mark the cables somehow, color tape, masking tape, labels, etc... so that you can quickly plug into the right jacks. It only takes a second to plug in 3 cables vice 1 and your options rise dramatically along with your tone. This will enable you to create various effect combinations based on the same standard patch configuration and also allow you to bypass your amp's pre section and use the POD's models if at some point you choose to do so. Here is a link to a patch I created that lets you do the 4CM without using the POD's FX loop. This introduces less noise into your signal and frees up another block for you to use. I made this for Variax so if you are using a regular guitar, set input 2 to Guitar instead of Variax. Set your POD Master to 1/2 at first and keep your amp master low until you get your levels set. Do this at practice/rehearsal so you know exactly where to set them when you setup for your gig. http://line6.com/customtone/tone/274440/ Guitar/Variax-->POD in-->Right Out-->Amp Guitar In-->Amp FX Out-->POD Aux In-->Left Out-->Amp FX In
  18. From the HD Model Guide: Solo Clean: This model of the Normal channel switched to Clean provides the most headroom and a variety of warm to shimmery clean tones. Solo Crunch: Here we’ve modeled the Normal channel switched to Crunch, which is superb for a range of distorted textures from polite to aggressive. Solo Overdrive: A model of the Overdrive channel with some seriously tight bottom chunk to liquid, screaming lead capabilities.
  19. There IS a site for sharing Variax models. Here is the link to the post for it, pinned to the JTV forum. Its not so big yet but there are some great models posted there... Like to see yours there too! http://line6.com/support/topic/2163-share-and-download-20-h-d-models/?p=13549
  20. I don't use one personally but I think either place is good. If you are saying your Tuner pedal sucks tone then try putting it in your FX loop and just connect the send to the pedal and nothing back to the POD. Keep the FX loop off normally and turn it on with a FS when you want to use it. The added benefit there is automatically muting the signal while you tune up and no noise!
  21. Search the forums, there are multiple threads about VDI cables and L6 link cables. I and others have found the Line 6 stock cable unflexible and unusable in other than a fixed home environment. The best place I have found for these cables and probably any cable you will ever need is Best-tronics. US made to order in their ISO certified factory with top quality components, good service and fast shipping all at reasonable prices. Variax VDI - http://btpa.com/Line-6-Variax/ L6 Link AES/EBU - http://btpa.com/AES-EBU/ Line 6 Wireless - http://btpa.com/Line-6-X2/ Gutar cables - http://btpa.com/Guitar-Line-Level-c-33/ Midi cables - http://btpa.com/Midi-Footswitch/ Snakes - http://btpa.com/Snakes/ - I have no affiliation with these guys whatsoever, just found them to be the absolute best...
  22. Think of it like the send/return jacks on your FX loop. You wouldn't plug the send into the other send would you? Its telling you what direction the data is travelling at that plug point. Data on your cable is coming OUT of the computer and needs to go IN to the DT and vice versa...
  23. That is quite possibly exactly what the tech meant by calling it a preamp tube... Its function is to split and mirror the signal and apply equal but opposite to each power tube so yes, you could call it the final part of the preamp... This is confusing to the average player though who associates preamp tubes with gain staging and tone shaping...
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