radatats
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Everything posted by radatats
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Helix and DT together is amazing. So it doesn't automatically change topology and class with each amp. Big deal. Use midi to turn off the DT amp/cab modeling and let your Helix patch rip. It sounds fantastic. What live support do you want? It's really not rocket science. There are threads on here and in the Facebook Helix User's Group that will help you with anything you need. If it's not for you so be it but no need to rip the company or the gear when pretty much anyone else that wants to can get it to work...
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Helix doesn't use output modes. You would need to use an EQ if you want sonething similar...
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when a piece of gear is not working for you the best thing is always to find something else that does. However, perhaps it would have been better if you had shared your difficulties with the group before returning it as there are a boatload of people using the Helix with a wide range of different gear that would have been glad to help you work out the issues. Regardless, hope you find what you are looking for...
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Just run the FX100 Amp Out or Main Outs into the Flextone FX Return. Place a dummy jack in the Flextone guitar in to enable audio. That way you can do everything in the FX100 and just use the Flextone as a power amp and cab. I do the same thing with my Helix and Flextone XL. It sounds great! Try using just the preamp models with no cab. Experiment, there is no right or wrong, just what sounds good.
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Try going into Global Settings and changing the 1/4 outs to Instrument level from Line level and see if that helps. You should be able to turn the Helix master up more without overdriving the power section of your amp. I using cab modeling I definitely found you need to boost the cab level 3-6db to get a comparable sound to when you don't use them.
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Great tip, I'll have to try it. I didn't realize it actually knocked down the watts. That isn't documented anywhere, it just says it adds Power Amp modeling to compensate for the lower volume...
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the set you have now will be fine for apartment use. Really, you won't do better with your budget and you don't need serious volume anyways. -
Yeah, actually AB, Triode, Topology 1 is the quietest setting. Topology III is loudest but use what you like. I never use LVM, I use the other settings as mentioned to lower the volume. I did try an attenuator but didn't like the tone suck.
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no confusion, whatever amp is in channel A in the HD500 controls the DTpower section settings.
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its definitely tempting. Everyone says its so heavy but its the same as a Vetta II, Flextone or any of their other 2X12 combos...
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Since the Firehawk FX has no L6 link or midi capabilities, your best bet is to just run into the FX Return of the DT25. There really is no other good option for you with this setup. Take the left mono 1/4 output into the DT25 FX Return and you are good to go. The DT is a mono amp only so remember that when building your patches. Big swirly stereo effects won't be the same when cut back to mono. However, you should still be able to get a great tone with this combination. You will be able to control the class A/AB and Pentode/Triode with the switches on the DT but not the topology directly. You could use DT Edit with midi to preconfigure 4 voicings to represent the 4 topologies if you wanted but probably not worth the effort. By the way, those "identical" output jacks are XLR balanced audio not digital at all...
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I create separate folders on my computer for groups of IR's with one folder containing the currently loaded Helix IR's. As mentioned above, I add the numbering to all the IR's in that folder prior to loading them into Helix. That way I always have a backup of the exact order they are in. The latest app update fixed folder drag and drop so for me, once I do an update and reset on the Helix I can just drag the whole folder into the app and they all load in the right order and position.
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yeah, I have no idea why it isn't working for you. Each of my patches should turn off the DT amp models so your DT knobs should not have any effect. I am rebuilding the set with a couple of changes I have figured out along the way. - adding a new patch that does nothing but turn off the amp/cab models in channel A, voice I, set pentode, class AB and topology 1. (this works just like using DT Edit and will stay this way until you either reset the DT or change it with another patch). - the new amp patches will just select the previously configured channel A, voice I and set the proper class and topology. - eliminate all the confusing FS settings. (if you want something different you can program it) - eliminate the preamp and cab. (if you want something different you can program it)
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Who would like a Line6 FRFR Cab specially for Helix?
radatats replied to Paolo_Maina's topic in Helix
well played! :D -
Who would like a Line6 FRFR Cab specially for Helix?
radatats replied to Paolo_Maina's topic in Helix
so does that mean L6link has run its course as a standard for digital connectivity across the Line 6 product spectrum? No future Stagescape integration either then? -
Who would like a Line6 FRFR Cab specially for Helix?
radatats replied to Paolo_Maina's topic in Helix
I think the reluctance or perhaps disappointment is that the 1500 doesn't have the same capability to accept the Helix signal by L6 link and do the whole wet/dry/wet thing the way the built in Firehawk stuff does. Just like the with the DT, the integration with the flagship processor isn't there. I understand what you said about the cost of integration and as with the DT there is a workaround. I'm just stating the feeling from this side of the counter... I'm also looking out for a used Vetta II at the right price with the digital input at least for stereo even if not true FRFR but as with the 1500 it's still 60lbs. However, I recognize that a lot of this is just G.A.S. since my current rig does what I need pretty damn well... -
Is this only when connected? Does everything work again when you disconnect? Are you only using L6 link or are you using midi as well? It is normal for the topology lights to go out when using Helix with L6 link to the DT. It's not right, but it's normal. What do you mean Channel A went away? Without a midi connection along with the L6 link, the helix will not configure the DT. Your physical knobs on the DT are still active but have no relation to the Helix settings. If your DT channel volume or drive is at zero there will be no sound. If you want to disable the DT internal amp models and controls you need to add the midi commands from the Helix.
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Who would like a Line6 FRFR Cab specially for Helix?
radatats replied to Paolo_Maina's topic in Helix
when I run my Helix through my DT25 into a 2X12 cab I get that whole amp in the room thing. Oh, wait, there actually is an amp in the room... :blink: ;) :D -
What configurations do the amps come in? DT50 112 50W/25W (2) 12AX7 preamp tubes, (2) EL34 power tubes 1x12" Celestion® G12H90 speaker DT50 212 50W/25W (2) 12AX7 preamp tubes, (2) EL34 power tubes 1x12" Celestion® G12H90 speaker 1x12" Celestion® Vintage 30 speaker DT50 Head 50W/25W (2) 12AX7 preamp tubes, (2) EL34 power tubes DT50 412 Cab 2x12" Celestion® G12H90 speakers 2x12" Celestion® Vintage 30 speakers http://line6.com/dt50/faq.html/
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None of them will really give you an indication before they blow but frankly, I doubt either of them will blow them anyways. Like I said, the 300W is not a steady output, just a peak output. That amp cannot do 300W steady (RMS) and that is what generates the heat that blows your speakers. Set your levels the way I posted earlier and you will be fine. Either amp will work for you.
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its no harder than any other tube amp. BUT you must replace with the same brand and type of tubes (EH EL84 matched set). Do not substitute JJ's or any other brand. If you don't know what you are doing find a professional repair shop. There are voltages in there that can kill you even when it is unplugged! Any amp repair shop can change tubes and bias for you. Here are the instructions for biasing both DT50 and DT25. http://share.myflare.com/rtwSHH
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if you are keeping your cab wired in mono then there is no need to buy a stereo amp! But if you do then it will only be one cable from amp to cab. Probably the amp says to use one side for mono or you can bridge it for pure mono. Read and heed the user manual.
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They ship from the factory and from retailers all day long with the tubes installed. If its in the original packaging I would just check it in with the cabinet and count on the airline staff to treat it well. Always a coin toss.
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Firmware comparison video - 1.71 vs 2.21
radatats replied to pugdealer's topic in James Tyler Variax Guitars / Workbench HD
I noticed that on the download page for JTV Win 10 it only goes back to 1.9 but Win 7 goes back further and you can get 1.71. You may have to download the update to your computer and use Monkey to install it from the file if it won't load normally. -
no, you will need 2 cords. One from the left channel out to the left speaker and one from the right channel out to the right speaker. Each speaker is wired to its own jack.