silverhead

Have you downloaded and installed the Pod Go Edit package? That’s the first step. After that, run Pod Go Edit with your Pod Go connected. Sign in to your Line 6 account within Pod Go Edit. If your device firmware needs to be updated follow the prompts to do so.

Here’s a similar situation I think. Maybe useful reading for you.

I have to disagree. The update instructions are already clear. Everything you need, including the drivers, is installed with the Pod Go Edit download package. You don’t need to even think about the drivers. Nor do you need to know that a program called Line 6 Updater is also involved. And there are actually two drivers that are necessary and installed. Do you need to know about all of that? The installation procedure was streamlined and automated some time ago precisely so the user did not need to know or be concerned about the background details like multiple drivers and a separate update program. All you need to do is follow the simple instruction: Download and install the Pod Go Edit package. When you perform the installation you will see that all these components are installed.

I think the best setup is #1). Use the L/MONO (or L and R for stereo) output(s) to your speaker(s). Set those Pod Go outputs to Line level. Make sure your computer is configured to use the Pod Go as its audio device. No need for Aux input or USB 3/4.

Your Pod Go firmware probably does include those amp models. But it seems there are no factory presets that explicitly name/use them. You can create your own presets that use them by selecting them from the amp models list that appears when you add/change an amp model during preset editing.

Does this happen with all snapshots in all presets, or is it limited to certain specific situations? If it only happens sometimes I expect it’s a by-product of the digital modeling behaving exactly as the real-life analog equipment would behave if dramatic changes in snapshot parameters could be made to happen instantaneously in real life. The most likely reason is a change in amp models, say from a lo-gain to a hi-gain amp. It can even happen within the same amp model if parameters such as Gain or Master Volume are changed dramatically. Imagine that you could instantly swap your guitar cable so that you disconnect from a real Fender amp with clean settings to a real very hi-gain amp with the Drive set to max, while the guitar is sustaining.This can be done in real life using an A/B splitter on your guitar input cable. I expect a similar popping sound would be heard. Similarly, these audible pops and warbles happen when time-based or gain-based parameters in FX blocks change dramatically from snapshot to snapshot. For instance, changing the delay time instantly by a large amount can cause audible warbling. This will happen on a real life delay pedal if you rapidly rotate the Time knob while the guitar is sustaining. Consequently, accurate modeling will produce this same warbling when switching snapshots with a similar change in the Time parameter. Many other examples exist, and a combination of these changes simultaneously in a single snapshot switch can easily result in the symptom you describe. It’s not a bug, and there is no fix because Helix is doing what it is supposed to do - model real life behaviour. I suggest you review your snapshot changes and reduce the drama.

I think it means the next update will include a mail out to every Helix owner in the world of a dozen real, physical power tubes along with a device that will allow us to connect them to our Helix in a mix-and-match fashion.

The cable that comes with the guitar is not a VDI cable. It is used for connecting to a computer to use the Workbench HD product. It should not be used for live play because it is not sufficiently robust.

You should never use both the 1/4” cable and the VDI cable simultaneously. If you want the Variax guitar and Helix to communicate (e.g. control Variax models and tunings within a Helix preset) you need to use the VDI cable. Note that this is not just an Ethernet cable; it uses protective shielding at both cable ends. If you just want to use the Variax like a regular guitar and control the model selection manually on the guitar you can use a standard 1/4” cable.

Hope you’re not talking about your son…… ;-)

Are you sure you are running HX Edit v3.11?

Yes, what you are seeing is the way it works. The POD Go must be connected for POD Go Edit to work.

Perhaps there’s also an updated version of the editor application that you need to download and install?

You can easily create one and save it for future reference. Edit one of the presets you want to delete and remove all amp and FX blocks by selecting None as the model.

No, no way to do that. What you can do is save a customized version of any FX block as a Favorite and use that copy when adding the FX block to a preset. But later changes must be made individually in each preset. Change the Favorite version first and then replace each of the existing blocks with the modified Favorite.

I would say there’s no such thing as the ‘genuine’ sound. Each sound wave transmitter (speakers, headphones, a tree falling in the forest, …) produces its own genuine sound waveform, and each sound wave receiver (ears/brain, microphones, DAW, …) creates it own genuine perception of that particular sound waveform. If there’s no receiver can the waveform itself, being carried through the air unperceived, be called ‘sound’?

You delete a preset by replacing (copying) an ‘empty’ preset in its place. You don’t need to ‘make room’ for other presets. Just import/copy them over the existing preset that you want to delete.

https://line6.com/support/manuals/

How come when I listen to a song in my tiny closet with the door closed it sounds different than when I listen to the same song in my barn?

I think the best setup for you would be to get a pair of studio monitors for your home setup. What you want is FRFR monitors (Full Range Flat Response). These type of monitors are designed to minimize the tonal colouration produced by the speakers/monitors and deliver a sound as close as possible to the source signal. With this setup you should find that the sound you hear at home is at least close to the recorded sound that your recording studio captures and plays back. For best results, use the same monitors at home that are used in your recording studio. In your case - the Alto TS312. Volume level also plays a big role in the tone of the sound you hear. Your home environment may be much smaller than the room you rehearse/record in, and 12” speakers may be too big and loud for the space. Drop down to 6” or 8” FRFR monitors for home, but understand that this will not sound the same as the 12” monitors in your recording setup.

The Pod Go caters well to acoustic guitars. Your acoustic presets will work best if you don’t use an amp/cab. The available FX include many varieties of the chorus and delay FX that you currently use as well as many other types of FX. Personally I don’t think you need acoustic IRs but you can certainly add them later if you’re not satisfied.

Your X3 products include a license for the original Pod Farm (not Pod Farm 2). You can edit, save, and transfer between PF1 and your X3 hardware. I’m not sure about importing your Gearbox presets to Pod Farm.

afaik… Yorkville (which owns L&M) is the authorized Line 6 service centre in Canada. The procedure is to bring your L6 device to any L&M store and request servicing. They hand it off to the nearest Yorkville service centre.

The Amp Out signal excludes any mic/cab modelling from the Pocket Pod preset. It will not likely sound good through the PA. I would use an 1/8” stereo to 1/4” mono adapter, making sure that it sums the stereo signal to mono. Or, if a stereo signal is important use an 1/8” stereo to 2x1/4” mono adapter that retains the stereo signal. This, of course, will require two input channels on the mixer/PA. I don’t think the unbalanced signal will be a problem for small venues. EDIT: You can also try tuning the Cabinet Mode (see manual) to Direct Out and use the Amp Out jack of the Pocket Pod. It seems this will retain the preset’s cab/mic modelling in the output signal.

Only one way to find out……