silverhead

No they have not discontinued support for the POD HDs.

Make sure you have a cord plugged into the 1/4" jack on the JTV. That is the power switch for the JTV.

No - the mags do not need the battery. There must be a loose connection somewhere. With the mags it's just a standard guitar; ant guitar tech should be able to diagnose it. However if it's still under warranty I would take it to a Line 6 service center.

When the POD is connected to your computer it becomes your soundcard. You need to connect your speakers to the POD outputs to hear the sound.

There are dozens (probably more) threads already in this forum that deal with exactly this. I think you'll learn a lot by doing a little searching and reading here. Reading the manual is a good start, too. Then you will have some specific questions to help you further once you've got the basics.

The OP is talking, correctly, about a limitation in the HD300/400 re: tempo. On all POD HD devices the Tap Tempo switch is used to define the 1/4 note tempo. In all POD HD devices except the 300/400, you can select a tempo parameter in terms of note durations that further refines the timing. For instance, you can select the tempo to be dotted 1/8 notes, in which case the device automatically makes an adjustment to the Tapped tempo so that the FX tempo is a dotted 1/8 note rather than a 1/4 note duration. The HD300/400 do not allow you to specify anything other than the default 1/4 note for the tap tempo. Any other tempo has to be manually entered in terms of specific milliseconds. Calculation and subsequent manual entry is required if, for instance, you want a dotted1/8 note delay in 120bpm. I have no specific comment on his opinion re: the severity of this limitation, but it is real. There are other limitations that I find more troublesome, but that doesn't diminish his opinion of this limitation.

OK, now I'm confused.

Probably not. Perhaps you should go talk to them? Speaking for myself, the only attack I have seen with respect to you was your personal attack on charlyg. I have to admire him for still being nice to you in the metadata exchange.

You might consider a used M5, M9 or M13 as another good supplement to the HD500. Each of those offloads (respectively) one, four or I think 8 FX models to the M device. The M13 can even be connected via the 4 cable method, allowing full flexibility in FX placement in the signal chain.

By the same token, how can you accuse him of making an unhelpful, accusatory and inflammatory post? That's what you seem to have read into it. At least my interpretation of his post is not personally offensive, and also illustrates how it is, in fact, helpful.

If at all convenient I would return it ASAP and get a replacement unit. If indeed the problem is with the device this will be much less painful and time consuming. Of course, if return is not an option then you're looking at more debugging that may well lead to the same conclusion - hardware fault in the device. It happens sometimes. Then again, this may be solvable without replacement but it will take time and effort.

Where did you do this test? My first reaction is that you may be hearing room or external object vibrations and rattling rather than the speaker itself. If the speaker is at fault then you should be able to reproduce this in any room / environment. Can you reproduce this at the same volume level in a bigger room/ venue? Can you isolate it to this particular speaker, or do all speakers exhibit the same symptom?

Wow - Darkcloud - calm down. I don't think charlyg was implying or inferring anything. All he did was to provide additional information, namely that this humming problem does not exist on all the devices. That is helpful information and hopefully will encourage debugging activities to look beyond the device itself for other possible causes. He wasn't suggesting that the humming doesn't exist for others, nor was he minimizing the problem. Chill a bit.

I can suggest two ways that you can continue to use your Roland, and get better tonality using a Line 6 product. 1) connect your guitar to the POD and connect the POD headphones output to the Roland aux input. Recognize, though, that in doing this you are only using the Roland's speaker/cab. You are completely bypassing the amp's processing. In the POD setup, experiment with different output modes and with using the Pre vs. Full amp models. You will find the setup that works best for you, although you would get better results by using a studio monitor or keyboard amp for the speaker/cab rather than your Roland. 2) consider using the Line 6 M9 or M13 devices. They are designed to work with an amplifier in a more conventional setup, and provide the same FX models as the POD HD devices. They will offer tonality options via different FX while you continue to use your Roland's amp processing. In this setup there is only one amp - your Roland. No need to referee the fight between the two amplifiers, real and modelled.

Do you mean Aux input? You're right - the floor and rack mount models have those, not the desktop.

There's no internal setting that could do that. I suspect the switch has failed; it probably needs to be serviced.

Try powering on while holding down the right nav key. If the device still doesn't respond try the left nav key. Once it's powered up try installing the firmware again. Make sure you are using a USB 2.0 port, and remove any USB hub. Try different USB ports on your computer, especially ones in the rear panel rather than the front panel of your PC.

Use the Contact Us link at the foot of this page.

That depends on how your Roland's AUX input is designed. If it is designed to accept a cd/mp3 input or other external device as, say, a backing track to jam along with then yes - you could connect the POD outputs to the Aux input. In this case the Aux input will bypass the amp processing and will be routed directly to the amp cab/speaker. Connect your guitar to the POD, not to the Roland. However if your Aux input is designed as a second guitar input, and is routed to the Roland's preamp for processing,..... Then no.

Your Roland amp is already a modelling amp, and from the specs I see it doesn't have an FX loop or a way to bypass its preamp and connect directly to the power amp section. That means the amp models in the POD HD are going to be fighting with the amp models in your Roland. You can anticipate spending a lot of time (even more than usual in learning the POD itself) in a perhaps fruitless effort in making them work well together. You can almost certainly get better tones with POD than your Roland delivers, but probably not by using your Roland with the POD. If you want to experiment with the POD I would beg, borrow (not steal!) a keyboard amp or a pair of powered studio monitors to connect the POD's outputs to. After experimenting for a trial period you can decide whether to abandon your Roland in favour of the POD or not. Try to arrange a trial period of at least a week or even two. You will need to spend some dedicated time to begin to get the best out of the POD.

Yep. The POD HD device is not for you. Sounds like you need a more costly setup, either an array of analog delay and reverb pedals or something more in the Axe $$ range. I'm sure you can find what you need - but not likely in the POD HD $ range. That doesn't make the pod a cheap product; just means it is priced in a range with lots of other products that don't meet your needs.

I think you should report that service Center to Line 6. Perhaps they will decertify it and find a replacement.

To change the guitar path of the signal just change the selected amp and FX models. To create a dual path preset with independent processing: - select the amp in the single path setup, then hit the Move button followed by the Down arrow. This will cause a second amp to appear in Path B. - move all FX blocks so that they appear in one path or the other - AFTER the path split. The two paths will only be processed independently if there is nothing before the path split. Input 1 will be routed through Path A, and Input 2 through Path B. You can do this both on the device itself, or using Edit (easier IMHO).

Here is a patch that illustrates using guitar and vocals simultaneously, with completely separate processing, in the HD500. http://line6.com/customtone/tone/215659

The pre/post terminology applies directly to the POD HD Looper. If that's what you are talking about, it's much simpler than you think. Pre means the looper records the incoming signal directly from the source(s), before it enters the DSP chain. This is used to record a dry signal and then tweak the tone hands-free (and/or change presets to hear the differences) while the looper plays back the recording for you. Post means the looper records the fully processed signal, the same signal that is sent to the HD outputs. This is useful to record a backing track (e.g. A chord sequence) and then use it to play solo on top of using a different tone/preset. If you are talking about the POD HD FX loop, that's a completely different thing and the pre/post terminology doesn't really apply. You can position the FX Loop anywhere you like in the signal chain, and using the 4-cable method you can fully control its position relative to the amp's preamp and power amp sections.