rd2rk

I assume that when you say the output block level doesn't change correctly, you mean relative to changing physical amp levels. Yes, Helix provides the tools to get it done, but it's sensors aren't powerful enough to detect changes to the physical world around it and adjust itself accordingly. Maybe Helix III will be equipped with better sensors and Qbit logic circuits.......Meanwhile, my tube amp is starting to look more and more like it's about to morph into a Powercab.

Like I said, try it both ways. It's virtual. Not real. It can't blow up! The preamp poweramp interaction I speak of has a lot to do with how it FEELS to play the amp model. Can you FEEL IT? Does it sound good? Nobody can give you definitive answers on this stuff. You're going to have to try it for yourself. FX loop Block. FX Send. Reverb/delay Input. Reverb/delay output. FX Return (LEFT MONO for mono or both for stereo). RTM.

In a volume limited environment, how good it sounds is somewhat dependent on the Fletcher-Munson curve, which describes how our ears perceive sound at different volume levels. At lower volume levels the Low and High frequencies are attenuated. You may need to use an EQ to compensate. At lower levels, FRFR generally sounds better than a guitar speaker.

Some thoughts... When you use an AMP Block, you're getting the modeled interaction between the PREAMP and the POWERAMP of that model, as well as the sound of that pre/power amp combination. When you use only the PREAMP, there is NO interaction between the PREAMP and whatever external poweramp you use. If, for instance, you use a Fender Amp model through a real world Fender amp, you may or may not like the sound, but you have the interaction. If you use the PREAMP only, it may or may not sound better, but you lose the interaction. That interaction may or may not matter to you. May or may not are not weasel words, they mean that only YOUR ears can decide. When you use a SS amp like the EHX you mentioned (I have one), it's a more or less uncolored sound. It sounds AWFUL with Preamp only, much better with a full amp model which, as mentioned, adds the interaction factor. The choice of whether or not to use a Cab or IR will depend on the speaker(s) in your real world cabinet. Like the way they sound? If not, there's no set in stone rule that says you can't use a cab or IR. It is, after all, just a form of EQ when you get right down to it. You may like the sound. Or, you could just put an EQ after the amp block. Your headphones always carry the Main L/R signal. The EHX is NOT a headphone solution unless you add a loadbox, which is pointless for your needs. Just use the full amp, amp+cab or amp plus IR. You may need to duplicate a preamp only preset with a full amp/amp+cab/IR for headphone only use. To get your external pedals to both the onstage amp and FOH in the pictured configuration you'll need to put them before the Stomp, or in a stomp FX loop, which requires a block.

To put the Stomp in the amp's loop, you connect the amp's FX Loop SEND to the Stomp's FX Return (using a mono cable to LEFT/MONO) , then send the Stomp's signal to the amp's FX Loop Return via the 1/4" LEFT/MONO Out (you can also use a SEND Block, but that wastes a block). You set the Stomp's INPUT Block to RETURN L/R and connect the Stomp's LeftMono Out to the amp's Fx Loop Return. Be sure to set the "Output Level" and "Send/Return L" in Global Settings INS/OUTS to match the amp's FX Loop Level - INSTRUMENT or LINE (-10dBV for stompboxes or +4dBV for Rack/studio grade units). You won't blow anything up by trying both, just keep your Volume knob turned down while doing it - especially if you're using headphones!

The sound that most new players are trying to get is the sound that they hear on the record - the sound of a mic'd amp in a studio - or what they hear in a concert - a mic'd amp through a PA. If you've spent years playing in bands standing next to loud amps, then you may be addicted to that Amp in the Room sound/feel. If not, you may be completely happy with the modeled sound and FRFR. I'm currently using a 15watt-112 tube amp with Helix for AITR, combined with a HR FRFR112 for a bigger sound and stereo. Best of both worlds. A decent set of studio monitors, sized appropriately to the room (small room, 5" min, bigger room, bigger monitors) are fine at your level. If you've got a nice home stereo, try that. I use a Sony 3 speaker (6"x6" plus 10" sub) in the office and it sounds great. There's any number of free amp sims (computer based - Amplitube for instance) that, used with an inexpensive audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd or 3rd gen for instance, around $100) that you can use to get your feet wet and try different playback solutions with. 4cm into a guitar amp is AITR. Studio monitors are FRFR (more or less). Different animals. A guitar cabinet sounds like a guitar cabinet and the speakers that are in it. Yes, it will color the sound. Too much? Only you can decide that. Powercab (I haven't tried one) tries to be the be-all end-all to your question. FRFR AND simple speaker for AITR. YMMV. If you're not already addicted to tube amps, this works too. I have an EHX 44 magnum (44 watt SS pedalboard amp) that I've tried through my combo's speaker, sounds great, but feels a little different. You likely wouldn't know the difference.

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs set Return type to RETURN.

Also, with the latest FW you can't stop the looper before you switch presets or you'll lose the loop.

RTM = Read The Manual. 4 snapshots per preset.

It's not missing, you just didn't RTM. There's two methods: Default: MIDI PC#s correlate to HX FX Presets - 01A= 000;01B=001;etc Custom: In Global Settings, MIDI/Tempo, set MIDI PC Tx = OFF In CommandCenter, use an Instant Command (IC, the lightning bolt) to send whatever MIDI message you want sent on Preset Load. Global Settings section starts on page 38. MIDI starts on page 42. This is v2.50 Owners Manual, there may be a more current version, go to the Support area of the L6 website to check.

S/PDIF eliminates one AD/DA conversion, thereby reducing RT latency. However, that latency is only relevant if you're playing a VST or further processing the Helix signal with VSTs. To totally eliminate the latency issue, just monitor the Helix direct while recording. As far as tone goes, I can't tell the difference between the recorded S/PDIF and an analog (XLR to interface) track. There are no doubt gods of recording who can tell the differences in a recording when the earth's magnetic field fluctuates, so YMMV.

What cruisinon2 said. To get a tiny bit more technical, the most wear and tear to a solid state device occurs at the ON/OFF switch, expression pedal, knobs and I/O sockets/jacks. IOW, the mechanical parts. The electronic components themselves undergo microscopic expansion when they warm up, and the reverse when they cool down. So, if you plan on still using the device 1000 years from now, you might be better off turning it on in the morning and off at night.

Unless Helix is your interface, you can't record through USB. You need to make an analog connection (or digital if your interface has S/PDIF) to your interface. You then connect with protools through your interface.

The usual: Swap cables. Make sure you're not using a hub. Front ports on a PC are usually a hub. Check your Power Saving settings. Set to Maximum Performance. Make sure the USB Ports aren't set for power saving (Device Manager - USB Controllers - Root Hub - Properties - Power Management). Try a different port. Open a Support Ticket. Report back if you find a solution.

I like it, as it allows saving a modded preset to a different location with a different name, all in one move, vs saving a preset you want to mod in a different location with a different name, THEN doing the mods, THEN saving. It also prevents accidentally overwriting your original preset.

I've never experienced problems with CCs and MIDI Thru. If you have a preset that presents this problem predictably, attach a copy of the preset and I'll have a look at it.

That would be my guess. Since you're currently shorting Tip to Sleeve and it's not working......

First, find out (RTM) what the Marshall FX loop expects - Instrument or Line Level. In Global Settings Ins/Outs set the 1/4" Outs to the proper level for the amp. If you've used stomp style pedals in the loop before without level problems, assume Instrument level. Then wire it like this: Guitar > HXFX In > HXFX Send 1 > Marshall INPUT > Marshall FX loop send > HXFX return 1 > HXFX 1/4" Left/Mono Out > Marshall FX loop return In your HXFX signal chain, add a FX Loop 1 Block. All FX BEFORE the Loop Block will go into the Marshall Input. All FX AFTER the Loop Block will be in the Marshall's FX loop.

Are you using a TRS or TS cable? The HX FX manual specifies TRS, and the Mesa Manual states that switching is done by shorting Tip to Ring. Also, it looks like the Channel Select Switch on the Mesa should be set to ORANGE.

I don't use them because I get best results using the Parametric EQ.

What dedicated effects are you referring to? I don't see one called "HPF".

Reinstall the drivers. This usually happens after a Windows update, but could also be caused by the phase of the moon. Computers.

Have bought lots from SW, but they're not a mile away.

When I bought my tube amp - a 112 combo - I also bought an EHX 44 Magnum, as a backup. Lately I've been considering the same thing as you, switching out the FRFR112 (which I like for bass) for a 112 cab and the EHX. Great minds......If you do it, do report back, as will I. Hmmmm....I haven't been to GC in a while.....NO! Don't spend more money! But it's for the music......AWAY DEMON SPENDTHRIFT! Cursed logic! You spoil all my fun!

I get the best results using the Parametric or 10 Band Graphic.