phil_m

Yep, you can have up to nine blocks per preset. To see them all, you go to Signal Flow view. As far as bypassing them, you can assign more than one block to a footswitch, and there’s also Snapshots, which allow to control the bypass states of multiple blocks within a preset at the same time. It’s a different workflow than the M9 and M13.

There's no issue with removing them. You don't even to put the screws back in. The screws only serve to hold the feet there, not to keep the unit together.

It looks like an electrostatic powder coat to me. You could try using a magic marker to touch up scratches, I guess, but I'm not sure how it will look. Sometimes those sort of touch-ups look worse than the scratches.

There's no difference in the way snapshots work in the LT versus the Floor or Rack. It's the same process in all of them.

Are you using the XLR out(s) on the Helix? I'd bet you $10 that someone accidentally turned phantom power on the channel you have the Helix connected to.

This behavior is controlled by the Splice parameter. The higher you have it, the more often it will happen. If you don't want it to happen, set it to 0.

All the effects, amp models, etc., in the Helix are digital.

Pressing the Mode footswitch once always switches between Preset and Stomp Modes. You have Preset Mode set to 8 Snapshots, which you're seeing, so when you press the Mode switch, you're going into Stomp Mode. You just don't have anything assigned to the footswitches in Stomp Mode, hence the black scribble strips. If you want to temporarily see the presets, you would need to change the function of FS1 and FS7 (the two switches on the left) to Bank Up and Down. Right now you have them set to scroll up and down through the presets. If you hold those two switches down together for two second, you can toggle through their available functions. They can be set to scroll through Banks, Presets or Snapshots. Once you have them set to Bank Up and Down, pressing one of them will temporarily take you into a view where you can see 8 presets in two banks and scroll through all the banks in the current Setlist.

Sorry, I'm not really following what you're saying... With the split in Path 2 hard panned like you have it, though, each side of that split is only getting one half of the stereo signal. Path 2A is only getting the left side and Path 2B is only getting the right side. So with only the right side signal going into the Dual Delay block, you'll only hear repeats on the right side. Also, you have the merge mixer hard panned, so even if there is sonic information on the left side of Path 2B, you're losing it through the merge mixer.

Sounds like a bad set of batteries to me.

The POD Farm 2 license that came with the X3 is tied to the hardware and can't be transferred.

I loaded the patch and there are two issues. The first is the Merge Mixer on Path 2. Since you have that hard panned, you're only getting the right side from the effects on Path 2B. If you leave both paths panned center, you'll hear the reverb on both sides. The second issue, and the reason you don't hear the delay on the left side, is the Split block at the beginning of Path 2. You have it hard panned so Path 2A is only getting the left side of the signal going to it and Path 2B is only getting the right side. The Dual Delay block is a true stereo effect, so if it's only getting signal on the right side, you're only going to hear delay on the right side. The reverb is a stereo effect, but the wet signal from the reverb is a blended stereo effect, meaning that a signal just on the right side will produce a wet signal that affects both sides. If you just use and A/B Split there, you'll get a parallel stereo path with both sides going to the delay like you want. The main thing to remember is that when you create a split, it creates two stereo paths, so unless you want to isolate each side to a path for some reason, you don't need to hard pan. Because you have the Merge Mixer in Path 1 and have that hard panned, the amps are already split with one on the left and the other on the right. They will keep that separation through successive splits and merges as long as you don't use any mono blocks.

Part of the problem with the AMPLIFi scenario above is that there appears to be a six week gap between the time when he first bought it and actually tried to turn it on. I don't know how the shop in Australia works, but in the US that would put you outside the return window that many retailers have... So, in that sense, he's already limiting his options. Really, it sounds like the store should have just replaced it. But now with getting the service center, Yamaha, as well as Line 6 support involved, there's four entities involved. It's not hard to see how the ball gets dropped in that scenario. Not defending or blaming anyone, really, it's just that it seems everyone has trouble overcoming the inertia that mucks up the works when it comes to international sales.

You are missing something. The toe switch on the HD500X toggles the on-board pedal between EXP1 and EXP2. You typically would assign Volume to one and Wah to the other and have each of those blocks set to by bypassed with the Expression Toe Switch.

Helix Native is a plug-in only, meaning there's no standalone version to run, so the only way to run it is using a DAW or other VST loader of some kind.

In Stomp Mode, this is the expected behavior.

A stereo 2048 sample IR would eat up a lot of the available DSP. None of the Helix products run stereo IR blocks. In your situation why not just those effects after the IR block?

I'm going to need some photographic help for this one. Can you put a screenshot of your preset up, or even just upload your preset? I get lost in these long text descriptions of stuff like this.

It usually comes down to using a different USB port and/or USB cable. I would try a different USB port on your computer first.

A parameter can only be assigned to one controller, so you can't have both switches controlling the speed. You could do this with a combination of snapshots and a stomp switch, though. You could assign the Speed parameter to a footswitch, and then you could have a snapshot that turns on the Rotary block and has the Speed set to Fast. Snapshots let you recall a specific value for any parameter that's tied to any controller.

If everything is a sticky, nothing is a sticky... Lol...

Sounds like that piezo is bad or got disconnected somehow. It should be something a service center can fix pretty easily.

Try doing a factory reset.m if you haven’t already. Hold down the two footswitches in the lower right hand corner (Tap and the one to the left of it) while powering up. Then try creating the backup.

You can put each Send and Return in as separate blocks. I would try using one FX Loop block first and mess around with the different levels and see if you can get it to work. I have a Bogner Atma, which has a line level loop, and I use the Helix with the 4CM with it with just a single FX Loop block, and it works fine. I have the Helix's loop set to instrument level.

I've had mine for almost two years now, and haven't had any issues.