BillBee

The sales "usually" pop up around the holidaze or put the money towards an X3 - just something to think about. ;)

I still use an XTL and TBH the packs bring that unit to life. The amps are great and the FX (while I don't use a lot of them) are many. If you are going to pop for them do the Triple Pack and they do go on sale. -B

Hey there, as you probably figured out you are going to need an audio interface for which to send the Pod's signal into so the DAW can pick it up. If your amp that does have USB out has a FX loop you might be able to go into there with the Pod the use the amp's usb to Audacity. Hope that points you in the right direction. :)

http://line6.com/software/ Grab the current versions and everything else here (License Manager, Monkey, etc... ). :)

Yep and how many of us actually use the factory presets? :)

Bah.... PG said nothing of the sort my man and gave the best advice. The only issue is knowing what or how to phrase the search strings. Master volume amp basics..... how to set up an amp for distortion....... how to use a distortion pedal Its all good in the end. Bill

Which Tech 21 "amp" are you using btw? TM10, 30, 60 or a PE 60? IF you have a great tone in the headphone then the issue is how you have the amp set up and depending on the amp it can either be addressed on it or if needs be via the Pod's controls.

I think there is a bit of a misunderstanding in what is happening. Based on what I have read the goal is to reduce any extraneous vibrations causing the piezos to give the warbles. Bridge springs would be the #1 thing I would look at, the foam at the nut idea doesn't look like it would be that effective. At least that is my take. To mute strings, when pick sweep picking I used to use a thick "hair scrungie" round the neck in front of the nut not behind like the foam. For actual fret buzz like Cruisin sez, is fixed like any other guitar but it depends on where on the neck the buzz is. Is the neck twisted? Does it need a new nut, neck shim, truss rod, bridge raised? fret files would be the last resort. It may be you have not had it set up for a gauge of strings you changed to. Repair shops are a YMMV thing _ I appreciate a shop that admits they can't do the work prior to any butchery but that doesn't mean you cannot go find a better shop.

Its not just L6 D-Tech IIRC uses the same for the 1101 and Control 2. I would love a wireless FBV but fear potential connection problems.

Running a modeler into a modeler usually doesn't go well IMO. Some have had some success running a POD into the MP3 jack bypassing the Spiders FX. I don't have a FH or DT so no comment other than I have heard they are pretty sweet. Mind you the Spider IV can probably handle a lot of tones and with the FBV is pretty flexible.

I wouldn't bother with the amp's pre (4cm). I love peavey amps but their pre's are not good enough (IMO) to replace what you gain from using the HD's models. I would set up your main setlist the HD (Studio Direct) into the FX in and dial in some goodness. Then if only for S&Gs go to a different setlist and screw around building patches for the 4cm. Its all good in the end as the HD is flexible and you need to get some tones built and start jamming. :)

I have been using an HD and an XTL and the HD is better. With the metal pack I regained (pun intended -ooh) some of the XTL amps I like but can use them with the HD. This gives me a flexible signal chain, dual amps and to my ears better FX. While yes the HD has some drawbacks (EQ in %, learning curve for ex.) they are small hurdles in the overall picture. Duncann does make a really good point though.. for a few more $$ the next level is within your grasp. But budgets are budgets.

Hey my man, some people have use everything from zip-ties to hair ties wrapped around the switch post to keep the switch from depressing.

I have a trusty ole Studio Pro 40 and I have always used the ''FX in'' to bypass the amp's preamp as its not really needed (located in the back) so I hope you have one there as well. It sounds good with the HD Studio Direct w/ the cab sims. Just because you are using a combo does not mean you have to turn the amp sims off. IMO most combos sound better with them. I always put the mixer at the end of chain BTW.

It's well explained in the manual and pretty easy. Open the tone chose ''store'' or ''store in''. Starting on page 4 it goes through editing and storing/swapping.... blah blah blah :)

Did you re-calibrate the expression pedal?

This is where the TV can be your friend. Those mindless picking exercises will get the right touch after hours and hours (and hours). Its just a matter of getting it to the point where you don't have to think. Former neck strangler :)

Try putting the FX loop after the mixer and boost the levels. That is the simplest. I don't use the 4CM method but if you do some digging there are some good threads on it here.

You are better off shooting an email to L6 via support ticket as they may not see your request here.

Before everything else is tried check the LINE/AMP switch - this one got me before - I bumped it and it was offset from either and killed the output until it was moved back. But: Safe Mode: This will let you do the hardware test. You can also force a reflash here through the L6 Monkey. The guy wouldn't happen to have another PS to try it with would he? -------------------------------------------- Hold the four-way arrow key to the right while powering the POD X3 unit on to start your unit in safe mode. After you boot into safe mode, a list appears in the LCD screen: Highlight item: Press INPUT The hardware test Details are as shown below: When the test is completed, the LCD screen automatically returns to the calibration list. You will then proceed to the next test. Results: P=Pass F=Fail PEDAL: INPUT> Pedal Calibration:Duty Cycle 0 Press channel footswitches in order of a-b-c-d As you press each footswitch, sweep the pedal all the way back, forward, and engage the pedal switch. The channel C switchwill give a scaled pedal value from 0-255 The channel D switch gives you the P/F result while flipping you back to the list. BUTTONS: Press all the chrome switches turns all the 00 to 11 POTS: Turn all the knobs all the way from 0% to 100% then back to 0% ENCODERS: Pertaining to the black soft keys underneath the LCD screen FLASH: Either a PASS or FAIL SDRAM: Either a PASS or FAIL

Let me grab some coffee and slap myself a bit. I'll be back with some step by steps. :D

The tuner is the 1st thing in the signal chain and will pick it up if set to tone 1 (not tone 2). My X3L is dead for the tuner so I know its either the board or a jack. The X3Ls have surface mounted jacks and those can break. The guy can try going in one of the other inputs too. I hope that the hardware test shows a P for everything. The SDRAM - F is not uncommon for an older unit. Fingers crossed! Bill

Have the guy check some different patches that worked. If he just went and loaded up some off of Custom Tone who knows what they are set for. 1st thing to check is if the tuner is getting a signal. Set patch to tone 1 and check. Signal? first hurdle. Here is a good thread for you: http://line6.com/supportarchivenew/thread/1692/ It has the hardware checks in there. Hope it is something simple. -Bill

I believe it has to do with the signal strength of the unbalanced outs vs the XLR. I "think" the XLRs are mic level outs. Still find it a bit daunting myself as I usually use an power amp/cab hence the peppering of "thinks and believe". :)

lollipopity lollipop for lollipop's sake Brazzy, I think 4-5 discs popped in the ole back looking at that. Owwww!. :)