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Story time... The expression pedal on my FBV3 died. I was performing a firmware update and afterwards it just stopped working. I thought it was too much of a coincidence so I tried reverting back to the previous version and it didn't come back to life. The thing is out of warranty anyway so I took off the bottom panel to have a look. See the attached photo... The expression pedal works by having an LED (D1 in the photo) illuminating a white flag that moves closer and further away as you operate the pedal. A light sensor (Q1 in the photo) then detects the change in light level reflected by the flag. I can tell the sensor is working because shining a torch on it caused a corresponding affect on the POD volume effect level. So I it's the little surface mount LED that has blown. The fact that it didn't visibly light up could have been due to being infra red but, no, it's blown. The whole expression pedal module is on its own small PCB so I contacted UK Yamaha service to see if they could send me a new expression pedal PCB. The only thing they could offer was for me to send the complete unit to them and they would replace the whole PCB set at a cost of £142 ($185). A whole new FBV3 in the UK is £176 ($230) so that wasn't a good option. So I ordered a pack of 10 surface mount LEDs from an eBay supplier and replaced the blown one. Expression pedal restored! Cost? £1.75 for the pack of 10 so 17.5p ($0.23) Now, I'm not saying that connecting the FBV3 to my PC to update the firmware was the cause of the LED blowing... but the coincidence does seem pretty suspicious... Michael.

Hi, my FBV 3 expression pedal after plugging to pc for an update stop working,in details the expression pedal,i try to power it from the amplifier with ethernet and all the button works exept for the pedal,the LED (D1). i order a new one and install it,it turns on but the pedal still not work, i measure the Voltage across the sensor and always 3,3v,no matter if the pedal is up or down always 3.3. someone know which is the component that i need for solve the problem? a light sensor or better a link (EU or aliexpress) Or Someone had the same problem that can give me tips or tentative to do,if it's not the sensor? thx everybody

Hey guys, I just got an EV30 expression pedal today to use with my hx stomp. I find however that the parameters only start increasing in value after about 1/4 of the full sweep on the EV-30. Similarly, the parameters reach 100 with about 1/4 of the sweep remaining. I am using the stock TRS-TRS cable that comes with the ev30. Any suggestions?

Curious to know how other people use MIDI for volume control on their Helix and what block and parameter you're sending CC values to. I know answers will differ based on the how you're using your volume pedal in the chain. Right now I have my HX stomp set up to take CC messages on the Level parameter in the final Output block but I'm thinking of moving the volume control to earlier in the chain and controlling the Level parameter in my Cab block so it comes before all synth and time based effects. How are other people doing this?

Hi team I experienced this when first building my Helix system, and an afternoon with a multimeter, cable ends and a soldering iron had me sorted. I do see this pop up from time to time, and figured I would document my findings/actions for others to understand what's going on when this 0-100-0 sweep happens. Walkthrough doc with photos attached. It might not be 100% correct, but it's what worked for me :) Helix EXP TRS-TS Cable.pdf

Hey Guys, I am having issues with the expression pedal. For some reason, I can never get it to reach 100%, it's not so bad when using it for gain/volume, wah, or when programming it to modify bass/treble levels or stuff like that. But when using it for Pitch shift/whammy, if I am not able to reach the exact octave, it sounds terrible (as if I am always off tune) I usually activate the whammy while using the expression pedal's toe switch. The weird thing is this: when I turn off/on the Helix LT, at first, if I use solely the whammy, it works well... (I reach 100%) If I turn on/off any other pedal, before or even after I use the Whammy, then when I go back to the whammy, it becomes offset to 98-99%. I thought it was a physical issue, but it seems to be an internal midi instruction issue. Anyone noticed the same thing?

I have several presents where I want the volume pedal and the wah. When I add these blocks to the path it automatically assigns the volume to exp2 and Wah to exp1. To change between you use the toe switch on the pedal. This is all good except as it's in volume mode as default I have to press the pedal all the way forward to activate the hidden toe pedal to get to the wah. The problem is now I'm at 100% volume as I've had to push the volume pedal all the way forward to get to the tow switch ie all my spare headroom, and it's too loud. Any suggestions please. Thanks

Hey people, got a problem with setting up the wah pedal on my Helix. My target is to set it up like Jonny in this video: Line 6 Helix Wah settings TIPS and TRICKS. - YouTube So for everybody who doesn't want to watch the video: I want to work like my old Bad Horsie 2. Selecting my wah pedal and chosing the Expression Pedal as the bypass switch on 0% (have tried with a little more % but it doesn't work either). Min Position on about 15%. With that setup it should automatically be activatet when I use the pedal and when it comes down to zero again or below the certain value that I choose for the position parameter it should be off. And here's the problem when I set it up like that: The wah is off in the beginning. When I use the expression pedal nothing happens. When I reach my bypass value the wah is turned on. Then I can use it until I hit the bypass value again. Then to activate it again I have to use the pedal and come down to the bypass value and so on and on. Sometimes when I set my wah pedal up again the exact same way it works as it should until I change something. But most of the time it only works as discribed above. Has anybody any tipps for me?

I started this post as a request for help troubleshooting an issue with my new Mission SP1-L6H not switching between EXP1 and EXP2 on my HX Stomp. I had factory reset everything and followed the L6 manual and Mission's instructions exactly, and was convinced that something was broken. But about halfway through writing this post I stood up and pressed hard on the Mission pedal footswitch, and it switched from EXP 1 to EXP 2 just like in the videos. I think the issue is that the toe switch makes a nice clicky sound when you press it lightly, so I thought I was activating it. Turns out you have to really put some weight on it to activate it (which makes sense since you wouldn't want to accidentally trigger). Anyway, I didn't come across this tip in my searching so I thought I'd go ahead and leave this here for future generations. TLDR: don't skip leg day.

I bought hx stomp 2week ago. with midi controller it's just best multi pedal what i've ever used Now I need external pedal and switch and i'll buy dvp4 expression pedal for whammy or wha but here is problem someone says I have to use trs-ts cable for hx stomp, and someone says i can use trs-trs too (he says in trs-trs case, setting has to be chaged) what i have to use for expression cable? trs-ts or trs-trs? and another question some cable has trs - ts,ts (so.. it has 2 output) in this case, if I connect expression pedal and external footswitch each one, is it work together?? plz reply to help for me

I've been having a problem trying to use my Dunlop DVP3 Expression Pedal as a Volume pedal in the effects loop of my HX Effects. The problem is that when the heel is fully down the volume is at 0% (which is how it should be) but then when I push the pedal halfway forward the volume is at 100%, then finally as I continue rocking the DVP3 forward all the way to the toe position the volume goes down to 0%. So I start at 0%, then halfway through it hits 100%, then all the way pressed forward the volume is back down to 0%. Not sure why its doing this. Anyone have ideas how to fix it? Setup Details: From the "EXP" jack on the DVP3 it connects to the Pedal jack (channel 1) on the HX Effects. In HX Edit: Created a Volume Block and assigned Exp Pedal 1 to it. Min Value is set to 0% Max Value is set to 100% Set to "Position" Linear (not logarithmic)

Hello, Does anyone of you use a Boss EV30 dual expression pedal with an m5 (or m9/m13, I guess it's the same thing)? It seems that the Roland EV-5 and Boss FV-500 work well, but I can't find any users of the EV30 with it (it seems that it works well for most helix users though). Thanks in advance

I thought I would add this to the forums after I had lurked about and gathered info from other people modding cry babys etc. I was fortunate enough to pick up a Boss FV-30 cheap and wanted to use it as a Helix pedal. Looking on the forums, there seemed to be a lot of issues with 0-100-0 sweeps. The wiring diagrams on the forum for a Line 6 pedal made it look like a pretty simple fix and I have a soldering iron so thought I'd give it a go. I wanted to make it so anything I did was completely reversible to factory in case it didn't work out. The below should work on the EV-30 too. Tools needed Philips Head Number 1 (PH1) 10mm, 11mm, 12mm wrench Side Cutters Soldering Iron Materials needed 20K 16mm Linear Rotary Potentiometer D Slot head $3 Hook Up Wire 1/4 Inch Mono Jack $3 If wanted - Rubber gromets or Pan Head machine screw to fill in and blank outlets not used Time About an hour Step One Remove the six screws on the base. They're pretty tight so make sure you use a lot of downward pressure on the screwdriver to make sure you don't strip the heads. Step Two The FV-30 and EV-30 use a cam mechanism to turn the pot. It only rotates around 210 degrees and this is why I used a 20k pot to get close to the 10K needed for the Helix. As you'll see at the end I only got just under 7K, but it works fine. Loosen the nut holding the pot to the cam mechanism frame. Then remove the two screws holding it to the pedal. Again, they're tight so make sure you don't strip the heads. Step Three Loosen the nuts around the Input and Output Jacks. Take them off and slide the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) back. Step 4 You should now be able to remove the entire cam mechanism. It slides off the pin attached to the pedal plate leaving two black plastic parts attached to the frame and pot. With rotation and a bit of fiddling, you should be able to disengage the two parts. Try to remember how you did it, so you can reverse it after separating. Step 5 Gently pull off the U shaped cam from the pot. You need to line the parts up so there is room to pull off the cam. From memory, the arm was at 90 degrees to the frame. Mine was tight but able to be done by hand, no tools. If you're having trouble, a flathead screwdriver between the notch on the pot and the cam may help, but be careful not to break the plastic. Remove the pot and store the PCB somewhere in case you want to go back to the factory pedal. Step 6 Here's where it got hard and annoying. The pot I got was slightly larger in diameter than the factory one. The flat also wasn't deep enough. There aren't many pots readily available, so I spend time with a file to get it to the right size. On my pot, I also had to extend the pot notch further towards the pot threads as the cam sat too proud to rotate and not hit the other plastic arm. If I had a 3D printer, I think I would have spent the time to re-engineer and print a new part to fit the pot. Find a friend with one or if you're like me and don't have friends (with 3D printers that is), spend the half hour with a metal file, slowly test fitting often to make sure it's a tight fit. If you get into trouble and can't get the cam off the pot, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry it off. Keep any shavings out of the pot. I thought of taping it up but only after the fact. Step 6 Reassemble the pot and use a wrench to ensure the retaining nut is tight. A dot of thread locker (purple to make it easier to remove) might help but don't get any in the pot. Step 7 Soldering. Put the cam in the position it will be in in toe down (fully clockwise from the cams side). If you have a multimeter, bridge two pins with one multimeter clip and put the other clip on the remaining pin. Ensure it reads 0K. Rotate to check it goes to 20K. If you don't have a multimeter, I'm guessing that all pots are wired the same and you can just solder like I have in the pic. No laughing at my poor soldering. Step 8 Solder on the 1/4 inch jack and bolt it through an open outlet. I went with the one that is printed as output. You could use rubber grommets or a pan head machine screw to fill in any left over holes. The jack I had was a tight fit against the corner and you might need to find one that works or mod it a little with a file. Reassemble the cam frame and screw it back into the pedal. Don't forget to hook that pin up again. Replace the base plate. Step 9 Test. I plugged in a TS to TS cable and got the multimeter on the end. Zero at heel down yay! Only 6.69 at Toe down. Boo. was hoping for 10k and now nervous it wouldn't work. Plugged into the Helix. Added a Volume to an empty block and hooray, it works. 0-100 no issues. I was initially a bit worried as I pulled out the jack from the pedal in mid sweep which stuffed up the auto calibration and couldn't get all the way to 100 again. Found out that to reset it, I had to remove the jack at the Helix end then replug at heel down. I only have limited playing experience, so I can't report on how the motion/response feels as opposed to other expression/volume pedals. I did read the cam mechanism results in a not quite linear response. All said though, a great pedal for only 6 extra bucks and able to be returned to factory settings if I ever want to. Hope this can help someone else out it they have one laying around. Boss.mp4

I made a dual expression knob controller for my Stomp. Both potentiometers are 10k linear, lug one is connected to tip/ring (one for each pot) and lugs 2 & 3 are connected to ground. When hooked up to the Stomp, the stomp reads 100% at about the 2 o’clock position, and when I went to the “Learn” setting, it reaches 100% at about the 4 o’clock position, but still not at the full rotation. So essentially, the Learn setting did something, but it seems like the Stomp still isn’t using the full rotation of the knob. The last 15% or so of the knob doesn’t do anything. Did I wire the pot correctly or do I have the right pot value? Or is there a calibration setting that I don’t have right?

Hi, My POD HD500 is great! The sound is good, and everything seems to be working well, except for the expression pedal. It's really not TOO big of a problem, more of a nuisance. When the pedal (whether a whammy, or wah, or whatever) is up it's fine, but when I push the top down to get a full whammy effect, it wont stay at the +24.0 unless I push down. For instance if I lift my foot off the pedal and leave it pressed down, the octave will drop to like +23.4 or +23.5. So the only way I can get the +24.0 octave sound is if I leave my foot pressed down on the pedal. You don't really notice it with the wah, but with the whammy it sounds pretty bad. Is there anyway to fix this problem? Thank you, Marty

[Hi! Long-time player - first-time poster] I'm using my HD500x in Pedalboard mode with different effects assigned to each of the 8 foot switches. I would like to assign WAH and VOLUME to the Expression pedals, EXP 1 and EXP 2, but cannot figure out how to do that. I can take one of the FS and change it to WAH and then change the assignment to EXP 1, but then I lose the effect I had on that FS. I feel like this should be easy to do, but I just can't figure it out for some reason. What am I missing here? Thanks for your help.

I would love if the HX Stomp got the same possibilities as Eventide H9 and some Digitech processors (using fs3x), where you can connect three controllers through the stereo out utilizing tip, ring and tip/ring combined for a third pedal/expression. Will that ever happen on any HX firmware update?

I have a problem with the POD HD 500X. I'm normally playing at home then I want to change from the EXP1 to EXP2 to use the Wah effect, but the POD shuts down and it begins to restart over and over again without starting. Waht could it possibly be? FX overuse? Wrong calibration?

Hi, I use an external FX pedal on my HX Stomp and I have problem with the pedal position vs. FX range. I don't know why but my pedal range is not matching the FX range of a module like a WAH. What I mean is that on heel-position the FX range is at 0% then at about halfway the pedal (so 50% heel/50% toe) the FX range is at 100% and when I go further towards toe-position the FX range moves back to 0% when I'm at 100% Toe-position. I want to have the FX range match the pedal range, so heel=0% FX range and Toe=100% FX range. I've been through the settings but the only setting I could find is the MAX and MIN FX level for the module but this is not related to the pedal-position Can anyone please advise how to achieve this? Thanks in advance

Hello All, I am a fairly new Helix Floor and Helix Native owner and am wanting to purchase one or two Mission Engineering expression pedals for wah and other effects while using the built-in Helix expression pedal for volume. There appears to be two different models that are offered for Line 6 products (SP1-L6H and the EP1-L6). The only difference I can tell is the ability to use the toe switch to turn the effect(s) on and off. This is exactly what I am looking to do, but the SP1-L6H only seems to be fully-functional with the Helix Rack. The EP1-L6 appears to be for other Line 6 products without the toe switch feature. Since the SP1-L6H is designed specifically for the Helix, will I be able to use this pedal to turn wah on and off without having to dedicate the a stomp button on the Helix Floor itself? My assumption is no since there is not an expression pedal switch input on the Helix Floor. Just want to to confirm. I appreciate anyone's help. Thank you. Thanks, David

Hey guys. New to the Helix world and absolutely loving the Stomp - it’s replaced my entire Hot Rod Deluxe + FX8 for an upcoming tour requiring simple patch changes. I have managed to set up a Mission expression pedal (no toe button) to control parameters just fine. I have also set up 2 x FS5U foot switches as FS4 and FS5 no problem using a Y cable. So far, so very useful. But my problem comes if I have one FS5U and the Mission pedal through the Y cable at once. The FS works fine, but the expression pedal travels from 0% at the heel, through 100%, and back to 0% at the toe position. I have them both assigned as FS and EXP respectively, but I can’t seem to find the magic combination of position and polarity to get it just to dial from 0% heel to 100% toe... Any suggestions? Ps. I’m running all the latest software etc...

Hey all, I was watching a few videos on the Gigrig Wetter Box yesterday and wondered if it was possible to set up a similar setup in the Helix. It's easy to create a split paths with a dry tone and a wet tone, and set a static mix for those in the mixer block when they come back together...but what I want to do is to use the expression pedal to set that mix. So when the pedal is all the way back the tone is 100% dry, and when it's all the way forward it's 100% wet. I'm sure the answer is quite obvious, but I haven't found it in my searches (here or the web in general). Can anyone offer any advice on how to make that work? The mixer block just gives me gain levels for A and B, but not a mix between A and B. When I tried doing it with the gain levels everything was mixed but quiet and anemic in the middle of the pedal position, but correct (either full wet or full dry) on either end. Thanks!

Hi all! Just a quick question: is it possible to assign an expression pedal to control, for example, the volume, in a snapshot, and change the function of that very expression pedal in another snapshot, for example, a wah control?