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If only! From Amazon (Artiste and other similar): These wireless 2.4GHz RF headphones work with a low-latency supported RF transmitter for minimum audio delay 32-40ms (human ear undetectable) for an advanced audio experience. Wireless stereo headphones ideal for watching TV, gaming or PC. That's way too much latency. It's pretty much the same as the Sennheiser RS185 (which I have). If you've found some that SPECIFY 10ms or less, post an actual link.

Start by taking the pedal board out of the signal chain - run your guitar straight to the HXS Input. If that solves the problem, look at your settings on the pedal board effects.

Looks like he should be using a MONO FX Loop Block, not Stereo. Using a Return L block will return the signal to both L and R paths. That's just from a cursory look, don't have time right now to load the preset and test. Hopefully, by the time I get home from work you'll have solved it.

YouTube. Hundreds (thousands?) of videos on every aspect of Helix, MIDI, synths, audio to MIDI, whatever you want. There's also many Facebook groups. And don't forget, Google is your friend! All the MIDI messages that can be used with Helix are in the MIDI section of the .pdf. How to use them is in the Command Center section, and in the MIDI sections of the manuals for the HW and SW tools that you want to control.. Specific questions can be asked here or over on The Gear Page, where you'll also find sub-forums on some of the other topics you're interested in. There's also Gearslutz but, warning, I find Gearslutz to be extremely toxic. YMMV. MIDI recording methods and capabilities vary from DAW to DAW, so once you've found out what you CAN do, you'll need to research different DAWs to find the ones that will be the best tools to actually do what YOU want to do. Some DAWs are more MIDI-centric than others. There's user groups for most, if not all, major DAWs. The field(s) you're asking about are enormous. You've got your work cut out for you. What little I know has taken years to accumulate. One suggestion I can make is, create a detailed list of what you want to do. That will help focus your research. Also, as you're researching, TAKE NOTES, and create a file of helpful links. You WON'T be able to remember it all! Good Luck, and Have Fun!

In brief: You need to use Command Center to assign the proper MIDI messages to the switches. CC#s 49-54 = FS1-FS6. Snapshot Changes are accomplished by setting the Instant Commands to Send the Snapshot MIDI - CC#69 with values of 0 (snapshot 1) to 3 (snapshot 4). In Snapshot 1, set IC 1 to CC#69 with Value 0. In Snapshot 2 set IC 1 to CC#69 with Value 1. etc. In Global Settings>MIDI/TapTempo you need to set USB MIDI, PC TX and PC RX to ON. Then, when you record, record both an Audio (Drums) and a MIDI track. Playback will send the proper MIDI signals back to the HXFX, in sync with the recorded Drum Track.

Perform a factory reset: If that doesn't work, open a support ticket. AFAIK, phantom power will make it sound weird, but shouldn't damage the unit.

That's only for MIDI changes, nothing to do with the editor. As datacommando said, make sure the versions match. You need to double click on the desired preset to select it.

You're confusing PC#70 and CC#70. You need to send CC#70 with a Value of 0 to get All Bypass. Sending CC#70 with a value of 127 turns it back ON

Page 49 70 0-63: Bypass;64-127: On All Bypass

Stereo headphones are TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve). Your beats are designed to be used with apple i-thingies, and are TRRS (Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve). One of the Rings is for the Mic, and that's probably the one that's making contact. There are a large number of TRRS to TRS adapters available, but a quick search on Amazon didn't turn up a simple 1/8 TRRS to 1/4 Male to Male TRS adapter cable. You'd need to drill down into the reviews to see if there's one that will work for your application. You may need to get one that splits to two 1/4 TRS (male or female) and get an additional two 1/4 (male or female as needed) to single TRS Male.

Assuming that you're using a Windows 10 Laptop, MS released some updates last week, and that often messes with the L6 drivers. Try reinstalling HXEdit v2.92. That reinstalls all of the drivers.

Alas, if I had the same head, we'd already have the solution! ;-) So, there's nothing weird about your preset. It works perfectly in the FX Loop of my Egnater. Adding a High Gain Helix amp and switching the FX Loop in and out works correctly too. I know this will sound like "DUH!", but are you SURE that the cables are plugged in to the correct jacks on the LT? SEND 1 (to amp Input) and RETURN 1 (from amp Send)? Just look to be SURE. Are you SURE that the cables are good? Here's some more thoughts. You have a brand new PV head. Have you considered contacting PV support for help with this? The fact that your hiss is happening when the PV footswitch is connected has to be a PV issue. There's also the Peavey user forum: https://forums.peavey.com/ I looked up the specs on my Eganater. Send Impedance 600 ohms Return Impedance 220 ohms I have no idea how to relate that to your problem, but I have no such issues. Can you get a stand alone reverb or delay stomp box to put in the PV loop? Then try it in the LT loop (use headphones to test). Do you know anyone with a simple amp with FX loop who will let you hook up your LT to test? Just throwing stuff at the wall here, but short of having your rig in front of me (do you happen to live in Colorado?), I'm running out of ideas.

As has already been mentioned, unless you try them all you'll never know for sure what sounds best in YOUR opinion. That said, having tried the FRFR112 (probably the same box re-branded as the HB), I'm quite happy with the PC112+. Having used it with IRs in the Helix and in the PC112+, I like having all the options open, and the options which will open up in future upgrades that the standard Powercab WON'T be getting. Like more speaker simulations. If you can afford it, don't cheap out on the standard Powwercab.

What is a PAT test, and why do you need it done? OK, I looked it up - Portable Appliance Test Why do you need it done? Just curious....

Don't have a Kemper, but seems like it should work. Don't forget to match sample rates.

To prove this, set SEND/RETURN 1 to INST and set SEND/RETURN 2 to LINE. Then instead of using a SEND/RETURN Block, use SEND 1 Block and RETURN 2 Block. Take the SEND from your amp to RETURN 2 on the LT. Then set the Output to LINE. You can try all of the possible combinations, but I doubt it will solve your problem. FWIW - you still haven't done what I asked by attaching the preset itself. My Helix can't load your screenshot.

That's not a lot to go on. Perform a Factory Reset on the Stomp. Link below Make sure that the stomp is connected to a MB USB connector, not a hub. If you're using a desktop PC, that should be the connectors in the back (don't know about MAC). If you're on a laptop any connector will do, but preferably USB 2.0 in either case. If still no joy, uninstall all your Helix SW (HXEdit and HX Update). Then reinstall HXEdit v2.92. FOLLOW ALL OF THE DIRECTIONS! TO THE LETTER! The FW update (if you haven't done it already) is now done from HXEdit. You MUST have matching FW and HXEdit versions!

If you take the Helix FX Loop OUT of the signal chain by plugging the guitar directly in to the amp input and simply patching the amp's SEND directly to it's RETURN, are you still getting sound? If not, the amp may have a defective FX Loop.

This is already a long thread, and I'm not going to re-read it all. If you would please start a new thread, with info about your HW and OS, plus which version of the Helix HXEdit and FW you're on, we can try to narrow down the issue. FWIW - when I first got my Helix I bought your big preset pack, and learned a lot from it. I do hope I can help solve your problem!

Is your LT on top of your head? I can't picture how 3' cables would reach from the LT to the back of the PV if the Head is on a cab and the LT is on the floor. With the PV footswitch disconnected, do you still get hiss? There has to be a cabling problem, or something in the LT signal chain. Attach a copy of the preset you're using.

Just to clarify, from the manual: 7/8. EFFECTS SEND/EFFECTS RETURN Signals are supplied to outboard effects or signal processing units by patching from the Effects Send (7) output into the outboard unit(s) and back into the Effects Return (8) input using shielded cables with 1/4" mono phone plugs. Only non-gain effects devices (chorus, reverb, delay, etc.) should be used in the effects loop. If footswitch is used, “Effects” must be selected (LED illuminated) for effects to work. That "Effects" switch is on the footswitch. AFAIK, if you're NOT using the PV footswitch, the FX Loop is always active, but bypassed if nothing is plugged into the loop.

Is it wired like this? Guitar>Helix Input>(Helix Effects)>(FX Send 1 Block)>FX Send 1>Amp Input>Amp Send>FX Return 1>(Helix Effects)>L/Mono Out>Amp Return Are you using shielded (instrument) cables in the FX Loop? Is the Send/Return set to INST?

You should spend some time over at TGP reading DI's explanations of the differences between the POD Go and the HXStomp. In brief, the POD Go is already a fully optimized unit. While some of the upcoming new amps and effects in v3.0 and going forward will also appear on the POD Go, it's not really going to get many new features, and some of the newer amps and effects just won't be there. The HXS, OTOH, has room for improvements and new features such as Command Center (coming in v3.0) and more DSP intensive amps and effects. It's not "throttled back" to wring the most money out of users, it's an ongoing project. They are two different devices designed for two different types of users. Patience, Grasshopper, there IS more to come!

Is that what you're looking for? In the attached example I've set the delay time at the max of 4s to make the effect most apparent. Mix is at 100%. The sound goes L-C-R and repeats, all positions. Not sure what exactly you're after..... circular.hlx