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After years of trying to make a guitar (tube) amp work as a stage monitor I finally joined the 21st century (frfr monitor) & cannot believe the difference. When I first got the Helix I used a channel switching amp (clean / dist) straight in, then 4CM (fought the noise) but Friday gigs going straight from work forced me to downsize; started using amp/cab sims to FOH, 1/4" to a Fender Pro Junior because it's small and simple; one vol, tone knob. Never could really get it to sound right, even after using a split block with parametric EQ to notch out the offending frequencies. I also tried: Blues Jr Marshall (straight in & return) Mesa Boogie " " " Blackstar EL34 10W single ended I thought what the heck, for $250 I got a small (8" with a tweeter horn) floor monitor thing and I'm blown away. Everytime I get a new amp I always break in the speaker with two things, Allman Bros Live at the Fillmore and Steely Dan Aja. When I started the Aja CD I couldn't believe my ears - it sounded better than my Stereo! So then I plugged in and played clean then hard stuff- Deacon Blues to Mississippi Queen both sounded amazing, and I haven't even considered mic/line level or EQ! Some of our songs require controlled feedback- that works too! Wish I'd done this years ago. At 66 in a cover band this simplifies my life... TL/DR: Try an FRFR monitor for stage wash if using a "real" amp doesn't work sonically. I've been blessed with some really great amps at home but for Helix this is a game changer.

Ok there are a bunch of posts on this topic but I didn't find any with pictures, or any that were specifically for a helix LT model, so following the instructions from those posts without being able to see what I was getting into was a bit scary. If you're a smooth-brained half-wit like me and you need pictures (and you have an LT model). Here you go. Here's the summary of what you're going to do. Take the back off. Loosen the expression pedal bolt. Apply some lube to the spacers that the pedal pivots with. Put the back back on and re-tighten the pedal bolt. 1. Take the back off. To do this, you need to remove almost (see exception below) every single screw you see on the back and sides. You'll need a small phillips screwdriver and a small hex/allen wrench (sorry I don't know what size the one I used is). EXCEPTIONS DO NOT REMOVE the 10 screws around the XLR left / right outputs, Variax / Digital Out ports, and power cord port. You don't need to remove the two screws directly underneath the pedal. I zoomed in on them in one of the attached pics. It's ok if you do remove them, but know that they hold a plastic support piece in place for the pedal to rest on inside. When you remove those screws that plastic piece will come loose and you'll hear it rattle around the inside and then think you've ruined your wonderful line 6 helix. You haven't. It will just scare the crap out of you and then you'll figure out later (like I did) that it reattaches really easily. 2. Loosen (don't remove) the tension bolt that the expression pedal rocks on. You'll need a 10mm hex/allen wrench for this. I made about 3 complete turns to loosen it to the point where the pedal rocks forwards and backwards pretty loosely. Three may be too many turns for yours - keep an eye on the nut at the end of the bolt and don't let the bolt come out of the nut. You're basically loosening it just enough so some lube can work it's way in between the white spacers/bushings and the metal where the pedal attaches. Ok so at this point, you've got the back off. The tension bolt is loose and you can see the two white spacers/bushings at each end of the expression pedal tension bolt. 3. Apply a very small amount of lube to the top of the spacers right up against where they touch the metal bracket/braces. By "a very small amount" I mean try to use as little as possible. If you use something that drips, clean up the drips. But try not to apply any amount close to an amount that would drip or spread to another area of the board. Apply some lube and rock the pedal back and forth. Do this until you feel like the lube has probably worked its way in some. Re-tighten the tension bolt. Rock the pedal. Still hear the squeak? Loosen it again and apply more lube. Follow this process until you are squeak free. Worked for me on the first go. What kind of lube should you use? I have no idea. Would be nice if someone from Line 6 could answer that in the comments. Other posts on this topic reference many lube suggestions including chapstick (of any flavor), white lithium grease, bike chain oil, silicon lube, this teflon dry lube, and others. I used a really thin bike chain lube called "Dumonde Tech Original". Don't use WD40 - it can be corrosive. Don't spray anything. Whatever you use, apply it to a small q-tip or a thin piece of plastic as an applicator. 4. Put it all back together. If you did end up removing those two screws under the pedal that I referenced above, reattach that plastic piece to the back first. Then put the back back on and screw all the screws back in. Be careful not to tighten too much and strip the screw holes. Just snug, hand tight. That's it. You did it. You're officially a hero now. No one will care that you fixed your squeak, let alone on your own, but don't let that stop you. Rock on with your invisible hero cape. You earned it.

So the delay recently started to bother me switching between presets...I discovered how snapshots work. I have presets on the upper row snapshots on the lower buttons. But in the videos I watch and for example they have a delay on and switch to a sound that doesnt have delay the delay effect still spills over to the next snapshot, but when I switch snapshots it cuts of instantly. What am I missing? Probably just a configuration error. It's Helix LT. Thanks!

LT version 3.01 - I've never had a problem in 4 years. Last night before sound check I went to tune my guitars & no signal through the tuner or anywahere else. Did the usual process of elimination stuff (cables, power down/unplug) etc. nothing. Ended up using my old X3L that I always carry as a backup which wasn't pretty. When I got home I tried using a return block and that worked so it smells like hardware or an input block bug. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks

Just noticed a small (~1/2") crack in the corner of the display. Have no idea when or how it happened. I'm pretty handy with electronics; already replaced FS 10 so I understand esd issues, have the right tools, etc. Since it's the weekend L6 won't respond - Does anyone know if I can get a replacement or do I have to send it to L6? I have nice gigs (wedding, private party) the next two weekends, then through July so I really can't do without it. I know I could take it to an authorized SC near me but don't want to unless no other option. Ideas? Thanks,

Hello, After testing a Helix LT for a week, I know that this is the device I need (compared to the Boss, which I also tested). Now the question is: LT or Floor? The LT is clearly not bad but the build quality of the Floor seems to be better as well as the expression pedal. The screen strip above the footswitches also seems to be good (although I couldn't test it) and more intuitive than referring to the screen to know which snapshot corresponds to which footswitch. After that, I'm not sure I need so many effects loops and I might use the mic input (but for recording purposes)... To sum up: Floor: build quality, expression pedal and screen strip and possibilities for mic input LT : less expensive... Your opinion ?

Not so long ago, I began to notice that I don't like the sound of helix. The main problem is that the signal does not seem to be hot enough. It's like the volume on the guitar is slightly lowered. And everything was fine before, but I don't remember what update this problem started with. I tried different guitars (prs sc250, esp horizon with emg), tried turning on/off the PAD button, tried resetting to factory settings. Tell me what the problem may be, otherwise I have already broken my brain) I forgot to say that I play through studio monitors, but it also sounds the same when recording

I just pulled my LT-based live rig out of storage, where it's been since last March due to COVID. And it doesn't sit flat! I can't remember if it did this before I put it in storage - it's been a realllly long year. Anyway, the upper left and lower right foot sit on the floor, leaving it to rock about 1/8" between lower left and upper right. I can easily shim the feet on the corners that rock, but before I do that I wanted to check if this was maybe a known problem with a simple solution (loosen and retighten certain chassis screws, etc.) Thoughts?

Hi, I am new to all of this so I apologize if this is an ameteur question. I recently purchased a Helix LT and I downloaded a patch made for a Helix (10 Footswitches). When I drag the patch into the HX Editor, it doesnt work well with the Helix LT. I am assuming because the LT only has 8 footswitches. Is there a way for me to edit the patch I downloaded to only have 8 footswitches? I basically want to delete a couple effects that I dont really need. Thank you!

Hola, soy Fran de Argentina, he comprado mi helix lt hace un tiempo y queria ayuda para lograr conseguir el sonido del siguiente video, sugerencias de amps, delay, etc... Muchas Gracias!!! https://youtu.be/UCxMW4nqhKU

Hi everyone, i hope your'e doing well and stayin' safe. I've got a Marshall Valvestate 8240 (2 speakers with 40w on each, i assume this is an stereo combo amp) in pretty good conditions, replaced the preamp tube with an EHX 12ax7 valve and it sounds nice, with it's own EQ limitations. But i want to use the fx loop for my Helix LT amp sims. So i went to the official Line 6 youtube video about the cable setup, triying with the FX return in mono from the 1/4" output in Helix at instrument level (tried both instrument and line) but it sounds like there is phase cancellation and every amp sim within the Helix sound the SAME. Muffled, dull, no tube amp dynamics. The preset didn't have any send/return/fx loop blocks, just as the youtube video showed. Then i investigated and discovered that all valvestates have parallel fx loops (i alwys have the dry/wet knob at 100%) and it's highly possible that some preamp signal from the valvestate is bleeding to the master power amp. So i tried the 4 cable method, placing a send and return blocks in my chain with an full amp block (i've read that those amps have a nice clean master power amp so i use full amp models in Helix) and it sounded more real, but i still hear the phase cancellation. The Helix amp reacts much better with this setup but i also read that if i'm using the fx mono return i'm only getting one power amp side since it's an stereo combo and this maybe is the cause of the phase issues. I'm getting frustated with this fx loop thing, i'm sure i can unload my rig's full potential, but i would love to hear if someone uses his beloved Helix with an stereo combo SS amp with parallel fx loop and how. I'm about to sell my Valvestate, but i please tell me if it's worth to keep. Thanks for your help

When I open the line 6 updater it doesn't see my Helix LT so I can't install updates, Does anyone have any answer to this problem?

Hi All, I'm having an issue with assigning the wah on my LT using HX edit, and would greatly appreciate some help. IT'S DRIVING ME NUTS! I have built a generic 'go-to' preset, using 4 snapshots and 4 stomps. Much like the 4 stomps, I would like to the wah to only be on EXP1, and be able to switch it independently of the 4 snapshots. If I select a preset snapshot, it defaults to EXP2, when I press the toe switch, it turns to EXP1 and the wah works, just as it should. If I push the toe switch again it turns the wah off and all is good. HOWEVER, if I am using the wah and flick to another preset, it all goes pear shaped! Suddenly the wah is on, but the foot pedal has no effect. This carries on until i go right out the preset and then back into it. I must just be missing some simple setting like a snapshot bypass or something? Thoroughly frustrated, Shannon

Hey Guys! So my Band recently went full on helix lt which means we want to use the helix of our singer/rhythm guitarist for vocal fx and guitar. We have two Singers in total which both use a shure wireless mic-system. So I thought that because the wireless uses line level, we could plug the two systems into the fx returns (and a clean signal to mix with foh) and use them for vocal stuff like telephone fx or delays. Next to that, our singer two sounds in total. 1. is just a distorted sound in mono (1 Amp + IR + TS808) 2. Is the same but with the Helix double take activated. We imagine that the two XLR outs are for the mic fx and the two 6,3mm output jacks go through a stereo DI for the guitar. For direct control this is quite a simple setup right? just using the vocal fx + double take + both Mic-Inputs in Stompmode. But now the tricky part begins... Everything has to be MIDI controllable. I´ve been working with Midi for my own Helix in Snapshot mode together with the DAW Reaper but now I need help to understand how to control the stomps in Stompmode with midi. For example this scenario will occur in our setlist: Singer 1 has a telephone fx on his voice while singer 2 is muted.. Some moments later the telephone fx will be switched out with a delay and extra reverb (2 stomps) while the guitar turns on the double take . So both paths have three stomps in total which have to be switched at the exact moment. Do I have to use own midi-automation lines in reaper for every stomp in stompmode to activate and deactivate? Thanks alot for your help guys! Greetings from Germany! - Worgram

Is it possible to essentially get "10 stomp mode" on the LT by using an external foot switch through the EXP port? Or will I have to use midi controlling to accomplish that?

HX Edit 2.51 crashes on my MacBook Pro 2012 running OS 10.8.5 whenever I turn on my Helix LT. This happened before I upgraded the LT to from firmware 2.30 to 2.50 and after I upgraded to 2.50. For you computer nerds (like me :) ) the crash report states that there was an uncaught exception 'NSInvalidArgumentException'. I was able to run the previous version on HX Edit just fine, and there is nothing stating that OS 10.8 is incompatible with HX Edit 2.51. Does anyone have a fix for this (without just stating to try uprading to a newer OS, please).... Thanks!!! P.S.: I upgraded to firmware 2.5 using Windows 7 on a Bootcamp installation, in case anyone is wondering.

I asked this over in the Blackstar forum also, no response yet. The manual says to be careful when hooking up to ext amps, making sure they're "short to sleeve". The BS HT40 I have does this so I should be okay. "Should" because I measure 3.3v from tip to sleeve (OD channel) & ring to sleeve (reverb) coming from the amp sw jack when both are turned on. When the switches are toggled on the amp footswitch the 3.3v shorts to ground turning off the LEDs & deactivating either one or both. I think using a TRS cable should work fine to switch both from the LT. Can someone please let me know if you've done this & it's no problem, and/or that the LT uses relay switching and therefore the 3.3v won't hurt it. I don't mean to make a big deal out of nothing but also don't want to screw up my new Helix. As always, any responses appreciated.

I was thinking of using the ext amp on the Helix LT as a footswitch to control the Boss RC3. I don't have the RC3 yet but would like to know if it is possible.

No big deal because my situation is temporary (in an apt while my house is being built). We all know the LT has limited in/outs but I believe I can still use one of the returns as an aux IN & control headphone mix/level globally with the big knob. The only way I can see to do this is by having a dedicated preset (or all of them if I chose) with a return block. I don't see any other way. Has anyone tried this? How did it work for you? Thanks

Hello, I have recently bought an Helix LT with firmware version 2.21.0. I have changed in settings the "footswitches" to be "Snap/Stomp" so I can take advantage of snapshots. This has worked just fine for a couple of days but today whenever I change snapshots the system completely freezes. For example, I set snapshot 1 to have low gain on my amp, then I move on to snap2 to set higher gain on the amp and I can do it (no issue up to now). Then I want to get back to snap1 but the footswitch is not working anymore. I try other buttons (any at all) and noone of them work. That´s when I realize the system is frozen. Then I have to reset the machine by turning it off and back on. Did this already 6 times today. Please let me have your feedback before I contact your repair services.. Thank you.

Didn't put this in the Bug post because it's probably my fault. I have a few presets with the XP1 setup to automatically engage and be in bypass mode for wah. That works fine, but when switching from other presets some lose sound until I rock the vol pedal (EXP2) even though they're not setup this way. Is there possibly a command that I have turned on somewhere that causes this? I can always rock the vol pedal but might be scary in a live situation. Thanks for any responses.

I mentioned in an earlier post that I really like the manual bypass option for the wah. I've been burned by the toe switch on both the X3L & my old Cry Baby so this is a great option. I noticed some presets were at a much lower vol level and traced it to the wah block. I can of course bypass the block (I did on all of the other presets) and that fixes it but that defeats the purpose. Does anyone know if there is another way to do it, or am I doing something wrong? I followed the directions at the top of page 42 in the manual. Bypass Assign / wah block: Knob 1 (Switch) set to EXP1 Knob 2 set to 5% Knob 3 set to 300ms As always, thanks for any help given.

So you veterans probably already know all of this, but I absolutely love the manual bypass (pg 41~43) and momentary switching option (pg 45). We do 2 songs in our cover band that require me to 1) quickly turn on the wah; and 2) have a momentary delay. The switching on the ole' X3L was inconsistent & sometimes I'd miss it (not cool). The delay thing was okay but better with momentary switching. I haven't even gotten around to amp/cab modeling or multi paths. The Aqualung preset was a nice touch, IMO! Still trolling the YT vids, those guys all make it look so easy! If anyone has links to good info please post them- I've learned a lot from what I've already seen but I know there is a wealth of stuff out there. Please be patient with us newbies, it's quite a lot to take in at first...